Jotul F 100, Jotul F3CB or Hearthstone Craftsbury or other for my 560 sq ft kitchen in a 1500 sq ft

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Yeshwant91

New Member
Jan 12, 2009
13
brooklyn, ny, usa
We have a rowhouse/ brownstone that has three storys, each about 500 sq ft. connected by stairs. The house is attached to the neighbors houses on either side. It's in NYC. The kitchen where the stove will be located is on the lowest floor which has an open floor plan.
I'm looking at the Jotul F100, F3CB and the Craftsbury wood stoves as possible choices. I would like to heat the entire house, but do not know if this is possible with the way our house is built (on 3 levels) and whether trying to do so would then drive us out of the kitchen due to the extreme heat or whether we would have to underfire it all the time, which I understand is not ideal. If not, then I would be happy trying to heat just the kitchen floor and maybe a bit of the next floor. I also would like to cook stews/ soups on the stove.
My question is mainly about sizing. Should I rely on the BTU values given by the manufacturers or are those often overstated?
Does anyone have a preference among the above stoves? Which size stove would be ideal?
A heat-loss calcualtion I did when the boiler was installed showed that the lowest floor requires about 10,000 BTU/hour when it is 20 degrees outside (it does not get much colder here) and the entire house needs about 35,000 BTU/hour.
Thanks!!
 
That's going to be a tough one to heat all 3 levels and not get blasted out of the 1st floor. The heat will rise, but as it does it will cool some, so expect a 5-10 degree difference between floors. Most manufactures numbers are for ideal conditions, your better off to subtract 20-30%. Have you looked at soapstone? It gives a much better even gental heat, and won't cook you out like cast iron will in your 500 sq ft. Soapstone makes it easier to go with a little bigger stove. Check out Hearthstone and Woodstock.
 
Yes, that was my concern. If I decide to heat only the kitchen floor where the stove will be, what stove might be ideal?
Incidentally, I plan to use soapstone tile to cover the entire wall behind the stove about 30 sq ft. The idea is for it to serve as a heat retaining wall, that will buffer the heat from the stove. I also plan to use a piece of the soapstone slab that we are using for our countertop to place on the stove for the same reason. I did want to cook on the stove, so I decided against the soapstone stoves with permanently installed soapstone panels/ tile.
The Hearthstone Tribute (whihc would be right size for me) did not appeal to me aesthetically either.
 
I think the Tribute would be too small, look at the Homestead or Woodstock Keystone and Palladian. The Woodstocks would be ideal because you can really tune down the burn in a cat stove. You can also cook on them. I use a stainless dutch oven on top to cook roasts and stews all the time.
 
How open is the floor plan on each floor? Is there a very open stairway connecting levels? If the 1st fl plan is open and so is the connecting stairway, then it should work out ok. The Jotul F100, Morso 1410 or perhaps a PE Alderlea T4 would be stoves worth considering in addition to the Craftsbury. It will depend on the wood length you are comfortable and how long a burn you are looking for.

Given this is in NYC, be sure to also check local regs on installing a freestanding woodstove.
 
The first floor is open, the other floors have two rooms (front and back). The stairway is narrow connecting the first floor (where the stove will be) and the second floor. My primary concern is not getting overheated on the first floor, making the stove unusable. More than long burns, I am looking for efficiency. The stove will not be the primary heat source. Just on weekends. Woodstoves are OK in NYC if installed correctly. I want to avoid catalytic stoves. Having a nice fire to look at is important for us.
 
I think you'll be fine. You can burn shorter hot fires to maintain efficiency. If it starts getting warm, let the fire die down. For circulation, keep the passageway to the upper floors clear. If there is a doorway on the stairs, leave it open.

Another stove you might want to look at is the Napoleon 1150c. It has a small cooktop with railing and looks great in a kitchen.
 
Yeshwant91 said:
I want to avoid catalytic stoves. Having a nice fire to look at is important for us.

Just to clear this up, Woodstock stoves have awesome looking, slow lazy dancing yellow/orange and blue flames. Not quite as extreme as a non cat but they are very mesmerising and nice to look at.

Oh, and as far as efficiency cats are generally a bit more efficient.
 
Todd, I knew my last post would come out sounding like that, but the last two sentences were not meant to have any connection to each other. I don't want a cat for the maintenance of the converter, the fact that we only plan to use the stove intermittently, etc. but I will look at them again. The flames issue was separate. I didn't want to start a cat/ non-cat war or sound snarky, especially since I've never even seen any wood stove in actual operation :)

Be Green, so do you think the Jotul F3CB would be too hot for us? I liked it because of the ash pan, 18" log size (F100 takes 16") and it looked nicer, however for some reasont he F100 looks like it has a bigger fireviewing area.
The EPA ratings for the F100 are 7,700 to 27,000 BTUH and for the F3CB are 11,500-43,500.
 
I heated my 820 sq' house with the f100 for a few years. 16'x22', two floors with a 10x 12 laundry/bath attached at 1st floor. Open floor plan. My house is fairly drafty though well insulated and on piers with an insulated crawlspace.

The f100 heated the house beautifully when the temps. were in the 20's or above, and I had to tend the fire much more when it was colder. Below zero I had to just about camp out next to the stove to feed it and empty ashes if i wanted the house to be warm.

Aside from the issues with my house in particular, in my opinion the f100 isn't a 24/7 whole house heater. If you have a very small home and need a smallish stove for 24/7 heating the f3cb is a better bet. I think that the fire box is marginally bigger but it has an ash pan which for 24/7 burning makes things a lot easier - no matter how often you have to empty it. Also, I don't think that the f100's secondary burn engineering is as efficient as the f3cb. I may be wrong but the f3cb has a secondary burn plate like jotul's bigger stoves and i think they work a bit more efficiently. I'm using a castine now and I'm toasty warm no matter how cold it gets and I haven't burned any more wood than I did the past few years with the f100.
 
Yeshwant91 said:
Todd, I knew my last post would come out sounding like that, but the last two sentences were not meant to have any connection to each other. I don't want a cat for the maintenance of the converter, the fact that we only plan to use the stove intermittently, etc. but I will look at them again. The flames issue was separate. I didn't want to start a cat/ non-cat war or sound snarky, especially since I've never even seen any wood stove in actual operation :)

Be Green, so do you think the Jotul F3CB would be too hot for us? I liked it because of the ash pan, 18" log size (F100 takes 16") and it looked nicer, however for some reasont he F100 looks like it has a bigger fireviewing area.
The EPA ratings for the F100 are 7,700 to 27,000 BTUH and for the F3CB are 11,500-43,500.

Either will work for you. The F3CB is a nice stove and the 18" wood size is a nice improvement. But the F100 is also a good stove if that's what you end up choosing.
 
I'm not sure about the F100, but the F3cb can be burned open door with the screen. Its nice to have on those nights, when its cool enough for a fire, but warm enough outside that you'll get blown out. Its also a different feel in terms of ambiance with the open door burn.
 
Row houses are to densely populated for wood heat applications.

Put your money into conservation measures instead and spare the neighbors having to breath smoke.
 
TreeCo said:
Row houses are to densely populated for wood heat applications.

Put your money into conservation measures instead and spare the neighbors having to breath smoke.


as opposed to breathing oil fumes?

besides with an epa approved stove as a secondary and occasional source of heat, i suppose we should be ok. a number of houses on the block have fireplaces, and another house has an epa exept stove that he burns as a primary source of heat. and frankly, i've tried spending a cold snowy evening next to a bale of insulation and weatherstripping, and it's not quite as nice :)
 
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