Do I need to use a piece of vertical stovepipe from my woodstove that has a air control damper adjustment for the exhaust ? The instructions for the woodstove does not say to use a stovepipe section with damper, and I called the company I bought it from, and tey said it wasnt needed, but wouldnt it allow the woodstove to get hotter by being able to shut down some of the hot air flow out of the stovepipe via a inner damper ?
Question for anyone using a non catatyltic wood stove that has the double burn system { Like Napole
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I think you'll find that most non-catalytic EPA stoves will do fine without one. Situations that might call for one would be: 1.) overdraft - due to an unusually strong draft you might need such a damper to control the fire better; or 2.) some soapstone stove users prefer to have one, as the overfire temp for soapstones are lower than your average plate steel stove.
For most installations, a damper might result in flue gases that are too cool and could thus allow the formation of more creosote. At least that is my understanding, but others will please correct me if I am wrong.
For most installations, a damper might result in flue gases that are too cool and could thus allow the formation of more creosote. At least that is my understanding, but others will please correct me if I am wrong.
Slow1
Minister of Fire
You may want to search for the articles on "Florida Bungalow Syndrome" - it gives some interesting insight into the topic of dampers on EPA stoves. Sorry I don't have the links handy - but there are several threads here with the references.
well im getting reAdy to install my Napolean, and I already detached the intake air control by grinding down the stop, so it will now FULLY cover the air intake passage. If I hadnt done this, the air intake passage still reamined about 30% open, even though the air adjustment rod showed it being fully closed.
So I can now shut down all the air intake if needed. My concern was more along the lines of having a damper in the vertical stovepipe section, coming right off the woodstove, which would allow me to restrict the heat/ air flow going out the chimney, thus enabling me to use more of the generated heat from the stove, to heat the house, instead of me not having any control over that heated air flow going out the chimney, when using a non dampered 2 ‘ stovepipe section inside my house.
The one thing I need to mention is, im going up with 2 ft of stovepipe, then a 90 degree elbow and 3 ft of stovepipe out my side wall then another 90 degree elbow and then 15 ft of chimney up. Id also like to know that my installation will allow me to properly run the stove all nite long for 8 hours, while we sleep, to keep the house around the 68 degree mark, and still have hot enough coals when we wake in the morning, to start up a noraml burn without using matches and refiring it up from scratch
So I can now shut down all the air intake if needed. My concern was more along the lines of having a damper in the vertical stovepipe section, coming right off the woodstove, which would allow me to restrict the heat/ air flow going out the chimney, thus enabling me to use more of the generated heat from the stove, to heat the house, instead of me not having any control over that heated air flow going out the chimney, when using a non dampered 2 ‘ stovepipe section inside my house.
The one thing I need to mention is, im going up with 2 ft of stovepipe, then a 90 degree elbow and 3 ft of stovepipe out my side wall then another 90 degree elbow and then 15 ft of chimney up. Id also like to know that my installation will allow me to properly run the stove all nite long for 8 hours, while we sleep, to keep the house around the 68 degree mark, and still have hot enough coals when we wake in the morning, to start up a noraml burn without using matches and refiring it up from scratch
gpcollen1
Minister of Fire
I would think that you would have thoroughly vetted the issue prior to grinding the stop. Not that I am against modifications, but I usually want some significant info prior to undoing the 'engineering' of a product. If that was your concern, I think I would have just installed the damper - doesn't mean you have to use it. Then again - it does not mean you have to shut the air all the way either. I would have tried the stove first....
CTwoodburner said:
you are making wrong assumptions about me and my actions. The mod I performed on the air intake adjustment was one recomeended by others who have this same stove, and it is a mod that make sense IMHO.
My question is not about air intake...my question is about the possible postives/ negatives of installing a 2 ft vertical section of stovepipe with a damper or without . Does installing a stovpipe with a dmaper, on the outake, with a epa non catacyltic style stove, give the added benefit of allowing more heat to be generated by the stove and into the house, via using a exhaust damper to slow down the amount of hot air that escapes on these epa, double burn stoves
HittinSteel
Minister of Fire
Here is an interesting article posted a while back by tradergordo. I have a Napoleon stove with a straight run that creates a strong draft. After reading the article I think I may tinker with the stoves draft control for next season also.
http://www.gulland.ca/florida_bungalow_syndrome.htm
http://www.gulland.ca/florida_bungalow_syndrome.htm
GaryS
Member
well I can defintely tell you that on the napolean 1900p that I have, the intake air shutoff was incapable of shutting down the intake air supply fully because there was a stop built in the slide mechanism, which kept the intake air cutout open at aBOUT 30% even though the air control rod was pushed all the way in . This means that the air control adjustment from the facotry, did not allow the user to totally shut off intake air supply, if needed..whether for emergency, or to just dampen it to a point of being open less then 30 % for a slower burn.
but once again, my concern isnt air intake...
but once again, my concern isnt air intake...
kenny chaos
Minister of Fire
rumme said:
Maybe it should be.
You now won't have secondary air which can cause a number of problems.
As far as a flue damper, I really wanted to put my old one back on with my new stove but was adviced against it.
I didn't and don't regret it.
HittinSteel
Minister of Fire
kenny chaos said:
He should still have secondary air if opened up all the way, but it will be 30% less than from the factory right?
HittinSteel said:
Actually, if the two air channels are independent, with the primary fully closed (as modified), he is likely to get *more* secondary air for a given draft strength.
Peter B.
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I had spoken to a few napolean owners who have done the same intake air mod I have done . These owners had commented that they couldnt effectively shut the fire down quickly becvause the air intake rod, when pushed fully in, did not completely close off the air intake cutout.
once again, we keep veeering off course. Ive already done this mod and am happy with what ive done.
So it seems that the consensus is that having my inside exhasut flue, with a damper, will not grealty add to the ability to keep more heat in the stove/ flue pipe, thereby heating the house better ?
once again, we keep veeering off course. Ive already done this mod and am happy with what ive done.
So it seems that the consensus is that having my inside exhasut flue, with a damper, will not grealty add to the ability to keep more heat in the stove/ flue pipe, thereby heating the house better ?
rumme said:
It really depends on the 'handshake' between the stove and the draft strength. If they're more or less in balance, you won't likely gain an appreciable advantage with the damper. On the other hand, if you have a known overdraft situation, then yes, the damper will help retain heat that might otherwise be wicked up the flue.
As for promoting more (or hotter) combustion within the stove through use of the damper, I doubt it very much.
Peter B.
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bokehman said:
My statement was made in reference to the stove's primary control being closed entirely... without consideration for the effect of a flue damper.
Peter B.
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rumme said:
Actually, in Arkansas's mild climate, low draft could be an issue. This is a different stove than the older smoke dragons and is not meant to be shut off completely. Doing so will let the fire smolder and defeats it's efficiency which is what you paid for in the first place. One would do better to burn a couple short hot fires than to try to coax an 8 hr burn out of the stove when the temps are mild.
At 15', exterior chimney, with 2 elbows, I don't think this stove will benefit from a stack damper at all. When temps are above 40, low draft could cause the stove to be balky to start and smoke when the door is opened. Be sure that the 3' horizontal section is pitched upward towards the chimney at least 1/4" / ft. If you find the stove is drafting poorly, maybe consider using a pair of 45s with a short connector on the interior instead of the 90.
1. No damper needed
2. They can't sell them with the damper being able to fully close or else they won't pass the EPA test.
3. My damper control on my Napoleon was very loose an let in too much air. It would run away on low at times. I tightened it up.
4. If I remember correctly, the 1400PL is designed to draw about 14CFM of air on low.
2. They can't sell them with the damper being able to fully close or else they won't pass the EPA test.
3. My damper control on my Napoleon was very loose an let in too much air. It would run away on low at times. I tightened it up.
4. If I remember correctly, the 1400PL is designed to draw about 14CFM of air on low.
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