What would happen to window if a spill occurs?

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crappie cat

Member
Jan 6, 2009
21
So Ill
I installed a new wood burner last fall and really like it. Gotta couple of questions.

I do a lot of cookin on stove top. What would happen to the ceramic window if a pot boils over or water some how gets spilled on glass? Would it burst and fall out or just shatter and remain place?

Hope it never happens but I wanna know what to expect if it does.

Also, what is the max temp for this stove listed below? I can't find any info in my paperwork or online.

Edit: reword title
 
Welcome. The ceramic window is not really glass. It should be able to take it without cracking, but I have never personally tried this. I believe Rick has this stove. He can help with info. Typically you don't want to take a steel stove over 750 too frequently.
 
I have the smaller Century in my workshop. The only reference to temperature in the minimal documentation for my stove has to do with initial burns and curing the finish. The third burn's supposed to go to 500F-700F for 45 minutes. Of course, they don't say anything about where that temp is to be measured (I'm assuming stovetop). I have a mag thermo on my single wall stovepipe just above the collar, and I usually run 400F-500F measured at that point. I've seen it above 600F a couple of times, which would probably put the stovetop around 700F, but I don't like to run it that hot. Rick
 
OK, thanks guys. Yeah, the instruction manual is kinda vague about operating temps. I have the mag thermometer right on the collar too.
 
From the website of OneDayGlass:

About PyroCeram®
PyroCeram® is commonly referred to as glass but it is actually a transparent ceramic. Pyroceram is 1/8" or 3mm thick.

PyroCeram® is a highly transparent ceramic glass having virtually zero thermal expansion. It is produced in flat, rolled sheets. It is excellent for passing UV while blocking IR.

PyroCeram® Applications Include:
Chemical process sight glass, high temperature vision windows, heat insulators, commercial ovens / broilers, architectural and outdoor lighting, electronics and UV lightwave blocking applications.

Strength and Durability
The Temperature Shock Resistance (TSR) of ceramic glass characterizes the ability of a panel to withstand the temperature shock in which cold water is poured onto a hot panel. As a result of the fact that the TSR of PyroCeram® is practically zero, the temperature shock caused by sudden cooling with cold water leads to only minor stresses. The shock resistance of PyroCeram® is therefore normally limited only by the maximum operation temperature: Short Term Usage: 760° C / 1,400° F. Long Term Usage: 680° C / 1, 256° F.
 
I can add a little to this. One day my daughter dropped a rather large glass of chocolate milk in front of the Englander NC-30 while it was burning. Splattered the front of the stove pretty good. No ill effects to the glass in the door. One question though anybody know how to get chocolate milk stain off the steel on the door, it cooked in there instantly. Now I have a whole bunch of brown spots all over the door.
 
cre73 said:
I can add a little to this. One day my daughter dropped a rather large glass of chocolate milk in front of the Englander NC-30 while it was burning. Splattered the front of the stove pretty good. No ill effects to the glass in the door. One question though anybody know how to get chocolate milk stain off the steel on the door, it cooked in there instantly. Now I have a whole bunch of brown spots all over the door.

I suggest you get the stove nice and hot and spill chocolate milk all over the rest of it. ;-P Rick
 
fossil said:
From the website of OneDayGlass:

About PyroCeram®
PyroCeram® is commonly referred to as glass but it is actually a transparent ceramic. Pyroceram is 1/8" or 3mm thick.

PyroCeram® is a highly transparent ceramic glass having virtually zero thermal expansion. It is produced in flat, rolled sheets. It is excellent for passing UV while blocking IR.

PyroCeram® Applications Include:
Chemical process sight glass, high temperature vision windows, heat insulators, commercial ovens / broilers, architectural and outdoor lighting, electronics and UV lightwave blocking applications.

Strength and Durability
The Temperature Shock Resistance (TSR) of ceramic glass characterizes the ability of a panel to withstand the temperature shock in which cold water is poured onto a hot panel. As a result of the fact that the TSR of PyroCeram® is practically zero, the temperature shock caused by sudden cooling with cold water leads to only minor stresses. The shock resistance of PyroCeram® is therefore normally limited only by the maximum operation temperature: Short Term Usage: 760° C / 1,400° F. Long Term Usage: 680° C / 1, 256° F.

In other words, we should all get the glass up to 700+ and get out the super soakers with 33° water in em and spray away! No harm, no foul. Just try not to hit the cast/steel/stone
 
That PyroCeram must be dang near indestructible. Probably what they made Obama's limo winders out of.
 
It's definitely not indestructable. When I got my door last fall, the glass was shattered, and let me tell you, it was some NASTY broken glass. I left a sign for the trash guys to be super careful with the box the shards were in when I put it out.
 
Indestructible to thermal shock, not kinetic shock. I broke my glass closing the door too hard when I didn't know there was a split sticking out.
 
cre73 said:
I can add a little to this. One day my daughter dropped a rather large glass of chocolate milk in front of the Englander NC-30 while it was burning. Splattered the front of the stove pretty good. No ill effects to the glass in the door. One question though anybody know how to get chocolate milk stain off the steel on the door, it cooked in there instantly. Now I have a whole bunch of brown spots all over the door.

that blows.
there are stove cleaners and polishers out there.
i would think if you clean it, and after a few coats of polish overtime, it should fade out.
 
We have bottle of stove glass cleaner that we use when the haze is really stuck on the glass. Most of the time all that is needed is water on a damp paper towel. We have been wary about thermal shock, and so we open the doors and let the glass cool off when we clean the glass.

I did break a pane of "glass" last year when a medium sized log with a stub sticking out doinked the glass and made a crack. Was loading from the top into a flaming stove.
 
I recall reading somewhere that part of the UL safety testing for windowed stoves is to throw a cup of cold water on the window when its at working temperature, without it breaking. Dunno if that's true -- if it IS true, I am sure there are three paragraphs of detail on the size of the cup, the temperature of the water, and the force and angle of the throw. I wouldn't be surprised though if the window survives... after all, virtually the same ceramic (except for the 'clear' part) is used on electric stove cooktops, and they take all kinds of abuse.

I too can report from experience that this ceramic DOES break into daggerlike shards if you hit it... it is NOT like tempered glass that makes polite little crumbles.

Eddy
 
Like, say the glass was orange-hot from an oxy-acetylene torch and you poured ice water on it?? No problem! But slam it closed on a log and it's going to shatter.
 

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Interesting, I knew the wood stove front glass was not actually glass but a type of ceramic, but this thread got me doing a little Google searching and reading on pyroceramic history.
Some of the "facts?" I found are;
In 1953, Dr. S. Donald Stookey of the Corning research and development division invented Pyroceram, a white glass-ceramic material capable of withstanding enormous variations in temperature.
CorningWare was originally a brand name for a unique pyroceramic glass cookware resistant to thermal shock, that was first introduced in 1958 by Corning Glass Works.
The original pyroceramic glass version of CorningWare is no longer sold in the US market.
CorningWare and Corelle brand names are now owned by World Kitchens Incorporated of Reston, Virginia, which relaunched the brand name in 2001.
World Kitchens sells "similar looking products" under the CorningWare brand name that are common white glazed stoneware. The packaging for these newer CorningWare branded cookware products say specifically that they are not for stovetop use.
World Kitchens does still sell Pyroceram Corning Ware to its Asia–Pacific market. These items can only be purchased in local department stores there.

It's interesting to know that my our old Corningware pots are related to the wood stove "glass" and since I know that the old Corningware cookware was capable of some pretty extreme thermal shock, it gives me a lot of confidence in that piece of "glass" in front of my stove.
 
So the "PyroCeram® is a highly transparent ceramic glass having virtually zero thermal expansion. It is produced in flat, rolled sheets. It is excellent for passing UV while blocking IR. "

Don't we want heat instead of a sunburn?
 
kalevi said:
So the "PyroCeram® is a highly transparent ceramic glass having virtually zero thermal expansion. It is produced in flat, rolled sheets. It is excellent for passing UV while blocking IR. "

Don't we want heat instead of a sunburn?

I would think you would want the IR (infared radiation) to pass through the stuff as well, especially if it is being used on one of those cook stove tops applications. When I stand in front of my wood stove it sure doesn't feel like the IR is being blocked significantly.
 
Carbon_Liberator said:
I would think you would want the IR (infared radiation) to pass through the stuff as well, especially if it is being used on one of those cook stove tops applications. When I stand in front of my wood stove it sure doesn't feel like the IR is being blocked significantly.

Here's a spec sheet (of unknown provenance) claiming it transmits out to 2.5-3 microns... usefully far into the infrared if you are trying to transmit radiant heat from flames and glowing coals, I'd say:

http://www.jmcglass.com/down/pyroceram.pdf

Possibly the OneDayGlass website got it backwards?

Eddy
 
fossil said:
From the website of OneDayGlass:

About PyroCeram®
PyroCeram® is commonly referred to as glass but it is actually a transparent ceramic. Pyroceram is 1/8" or 3mm thick.

PyroCeram® is a highly transparent ceramic glass having virtually zero thermal expansion. It is produced in flat, rolled sheets. It is excellent for passing UV while blocking IR.

PyroCeram® Applications Include:
Chemical process sight glass, high temperature vision windows, heat insulators, commercial ovens / broilers, architectural and outdoor lighting, electronics and UV lightwave blocking applications.

Strength and Durability
The Temperature Shock Resistance (TSR) of ceramic glass characterizes the ability of a panel to withstand the temperature shock in which cold water is poured onto a hot panel. As a result of the fact that the TSR of PyroCeram® is practically zero, the temperature shock caused by sudden cooling with cold water leads to only minor stresses. The shock resistance of PyroCeram® is therefore normally limited only by the maximum operation temperature: Short Term Usage: 760° C / 1,400° F. Long Term Usage: 680° C / 1, 256° F.

Wow, that is quite a product, very intresting. But it makes me want to build an entire stove out of this ceramic glass, how cool would that be. You would have to put the logs in very carefully or you would have a real problem on your hands.
 
I have the Century FW300011 which I think is the same stove as yours with different door design (different shaped sunburst) mine is a 2000 sf. I have a Magnetic therm. on top in the middle right below the step and one 18 inches on the pipe and on a reload of oak wide open I get the top to about 600 and the pipe to 450 then shut the air all the way off and the stove will get up to 750-800 for a brief while and then cruise at 550 to 600 for about 4 hours before dying down. I have had water hit my glass from bouncing off the ash tray and no problem yet =not making a habit of it though just in case.

I hope this helped!!!
Good Luck
Stay warm
 
Even that data sheet has it backwards in the text. The UV starts around .4micrometers on their graph and goes down (smaller wavelength, more energy), visible light is from .4 to .7 while IR is higher than .7 so you can see it transmits lots of IR and not much UV. Quartz is excellent for passing UV.
 
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