ceramic vs steel baffle

The factory baffle is 1" thick(at least in my manual for the 1900). Did you stack two pieces or just go with the thickness of the sheet of Durock.

I was thinking of using refractory cement to sandwich two pieces together.


Not sure what your manual says but mine says:

"Maximum heat for minium fuel (optimum burn)
occurs when the stove top temperature beneath the trivet is
between 500°F (260°C) and 600°F (315°C)."


I found it interesting that the manual said best burn occurs with flu temps of 250-450. If I ran my flu at 450 my stove top would hit 900 easy. I like to run it (my 1400)between 500 and 700 on the stove top.

I love my Napoleon and only paid 2170.00 and change for stove, chimney system, delivery and installation(including chimney system). If I ever needed to buy another, it would be a Napoleon. If I move, I'm taking mine with me!

Hi,

No I just use a single peice of Durock without stacking.

I paid 1800$ but no installation, and no chimney system. I paid no tax and free delivery. I feel I got a great deal.

Im using a stove thermometer under my trivet to measure temps....It usually reads about 500-600 degrees...maybe its innaccurate ?

Perhaps a good idea would be to use a piece of Durock and a piece of flat plate steel about 1/8" thick sandwhcihed together on each side .

my 1900p cost me $1400 delivered....payed another $300 for my 8x8 square 3/16" steel chimney

I don't think the thickness matters. The factory baffles are 1" thick because they have to be in order to be structurally sound. The durock is structurally sound at 1/2" thick. So long as the thermal properties allow for the secondary burn activity the thickness should not be a problem. But I am no expert. BTW, day three of high burn and they are still looking good.

If you decide to stack up layers, you may be frustrated by the different expansion and warpage rates of the various layers causing shifting/movement but what do I know.

My 1900 started off at 1500$ but I added a gold door, the cooking trivet, and almond enamele finish. Still a great deal considering what a similare looking stove would cost from say Vermont castings (4-5K$).

Its been a week since installing the durock baffles. Today I took them out and examined them.

No signs of wear at all. The stove has been running optimally.

I'm going to stick with them.

After two weeks of high burn, one of the baffles has cracked. The peices still slide together in the baffle rack so no leaking can occur.

I went to Home Depo today to buy some more of what I thought was Durock, but it turns out that what I have been using is 1/2 inch Hardiebacker 500. So far, the stuff works great.

I forgot to say that the origonal Hardiebacker cracked because I accidently banged it with a large log while loading the stove for the night.

How are the HardiBacker baffles holding uP? My neighbor has a Napoleon 1400 and the bafffles are falling apart and I have HardiBacker in the garage si I thought I make up a couple of baffles. I am thinking of gluing 2 pieces together with stove and gasket cement to possibly make a stronger baffle.
Thanks,
Carl

So far so good. I bought some new hardibacker board and this new stuff works even better. The old stuff had been out in the rain for 5 years. So far, about a month of high burn without failure. It will be interesting to see if the extra effort you put into your thicker baffles will pay off. I get twelve baffles from one peice of 3/5 hardibacker and could "double up" myself but am too lazy to try it out.

I am having "door sag" problems now with the stove which has made opening and closing an execise in "lift and push/pull". So my current focus is the replacement of the door hinge pins.

Good luck.

Its been over a month of high burn and the new hardi backer board baffles have not cracked at all. The stove has been operating optimally.