Another item that I do differently then the instructions state, and achieve better results...

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rumme

New Member
Dec 14, 2008
164
arkansas
The manual for my napolean says for the user to load up the stove with many pieces of wood before going to be at night, if one wants to awaken to a warm house and a hotbed of coals..


After doing this, by loading up 4 or more logs, it seemed as though the logs were burning to quickly and way to hot { under the trivet, temps went to 800 + degrees on some nights } ...

even when packing the stove tightly with many logs and closing down the air damper FULLY...it seemed as though getting a 8 hr overnight burn was quite difficult with this method.

therefore, I now make sure to have 1 BIG wide long piece of oak/ ash to put in at night. something equivlalent to about 10 " round to 1 ft long minimum. This allows the stove to burn all night, but doesnt get the stove above 600 degrees or burn the chunk of wood out to quickly.

I will no longer be loading several pieces of smaller wood in at night before going to bed. For me, this new method works better.
 
Any concerns that the cooler, slower-burning fire produces more creosote condensation in your flue? How / how often do you check it?
 
If you want a longer warmer burn, it is indeed directly related to how much fuel you put in the box. Then when you break down the fuel, well, it is going to be significant if the wood is wet or dry, and what kind, and how tightly packed it is or what size logs/splits you use. It seems you are changing variables and then saying it is the method...

If your stove burns more quickly with a bigger load, you may have an air leak or something.
 
CTwoodburner said:
If you want a longer warmer burn, it is indeed directly related to how much fuel you put in the box. Then when you break down the fuel, well, it is going to be significant if the wood is wet or dry, and what kind, and how tightly packed it is or what size logs/splits you use. It seems you are changing variables and then saying it is the method...

If your stove burns more quickly with a bigger load, you may have an air leak or something.
Click to expand...

correction...

I am changing variables, and saying it is the method that currently works best for me...
 
Edthedawg said:
Any concerns that the cooler, slower-burning fire produces more creosote condensation in your flue? How / how often do you check it?
Click to expand...

I fabricated my chimney with ease of cleaning/ maintenance as a top issue . Cresote and chimney cleaning will not be a a laborous affair for me
 
I agree. Burn rate is to a good degree proportional to the surface area of the fuel in the firebox. One ten-pound log burns much longer than ten 1-pound logs... other things (draft setting, stove temp, wood type, etc) being equal.

It does take a good stove, with a good well-insulated firebox, to successfully burn a single large log, though.

Eddy
 
If your stove is burning that way it sounds like perhaps you have an airleak around the door?

Or perhaps you have a really strong draft and could benefit front using a flue damper?

pen
 
Nah, just the way a non-cat stove works. Plenty of air is available even at lowest draft settings. Take this to extremes and fill the firebox with kindling, yep it'll burn up fast even with the draft setting at zero. Haven't you all noticed that all (aside from the silly small ones) of our modern non-cat stoves seem to have about the same burn times?

I load 4 of the biggest logs I can fit for the overnight burn. I pack them tight to minimize the surface area of wood exposed to air. Basicly, trying to mimick a single large log while at the same time maximizing the lbs of wood loaded. It burns clean and reasonably long.
 
Id have to say thta my experiences with the double burn non catayltic stoves is that once the stove top reaches the 500-600 degree mark...and the flame is in full blossom, that the air control doesnt have much affect on things....I modded my air intake so when i push the rod all the way in, the steel plate totally covers the air intake cutout..but that doesnt shut the fire down or the heat....and if I open up the air intake all the way , there isnt much of a noticeable change.

fortunately my stove seem to be burning perfectly in that it reaches the 500-600 degree tempratures and stays in that zone as long as wood is feed to it.

I did have it go over 800 dergess..but that was when I put a bunch of logs in at nite, ebfore bed.....from now on, i will just put in one biog log...at nite./..
 
pen said:
If your stove is burning that way it sounds like perhaps you have an airleak around the door?

Or perhaps you have a really strong draft and could benefit front using a flue damper?

pen
Click to expand...


i almost put a flue damper in this stove..but the manufacturer talked me out of it...

either way...id rather have a stronger draft, then weaker one...

my sotve seems to be burning at peak effiecincy...and there is very little ash left over..and it is very fine ash at that..
 
Big wood is a good way to extend burn times. I try for big splits and fill in the gaps with medium splits.
 
I agree. Put in at least one big log or split as these will burn slower. With our stove, I put a soft maple in bottom front and a large split or log in the bottom rear. It does depend upon that big split or log as to how long the fire burns. Heck, I learned that as a child as from the time I was about 6 or 7 it was my job to keep the home fires burning. Sad to say, that was many, many moons ago paleface.
 
Backwoods Savage said:
Heck, I learned that as a child as from the time I was about 6 or 7 it was my job to keep the home fires burning.
Click to expand...

They had trees then? :lol:
 
Backwoods Savage said:
I agree. Put in at least one big log or split as these will burn slower. With our stove, I put a soft maple in bottom front and a large split or log in the bottom rear. It does depend upon that big split or log as to how long the fire burns. Heck, I learned that as a child as from the time I was about 6 or 7 it was my job to keep the home fires burning. Sad to say, that was many, many moons ago paleface.
Click to expand...

Yeah but I still don't get it. How is one large log that does not fill the fire box supposed to better than filling the firebox. I did not read it as I am going to use one big split opr round AND fill the box, just as using one big log that does not fill the firebox. Maybe I am just confused - Smuttynose IPA to the rescue...
 
rumme said:
pen said:
If your stove is burning that way it sounds like perhaps you have an airleak around the door?

Or perhaps you have a really strong draft and could benefit front using a flue damper?

pen
Click to expand...


i almost put a flue damper in this stove..but the manufacturer talked me out of it...

either way...id rather have a stronger draft, then weaker one...

my sotve seems to be burning at peak effiecincy...and there is very little ash left over..and it is very fine ash at that..
Click to expand...

Sounds like you don't need our advice then.

pen
 
my stove goes longer on a wide rectangular pieces of wood. I wondr if it has to do with creating longer paths for the flames/gases to travel?
 
Did anyone try a overnight with Evi-block or Bio Bricks. I got some Envi 8s and use 2 in morning to get things going fast. I stopped doing overnight burns because of fast shrinking wood pile, that's why I got some 8s. Next year will be ready with at least 5 cords of wood, and if the price comes down a ton of 8s or bio bricks. When I did overnight burns I would put at least 2 big logs in with 3 smaller logs, would have hot ash in morning. I miss my big wood pile, live and learn 1st year with insert.
 
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