E-Classic 2300 Central Bolier

6 inches or less???? That's not wood, those are sticks! Please tell me it's not true.........

Would you mind sharing (in US dollars) what the 2300 base cost looks like?

Thank you North border, I think your neighbor dealer is being very honest and has indicated a few things about the e-classic that have not been mentioned before. I am in the same position, about 100 acres of wood, not all choice and would benifit from some cutting. Lots of cutting actually. Some huge old stuff including Aspen. I'm leaning heavily in the direction of the 6048. My neigbor loves his. Claims to thow in about 10 pieces a day and goes through 6 to 8 cords a year. (loggers cords) That's not bad concidering he's only handling it two or three times.

FWIW - neither my dealer, nor the manual for the e-classic say anything about this "wood must be 6 inches or less." So not sure if this is fact or fiction. Also - my wood only model only has 3 solenoids - not 5.

Pete

FWIW - here is my experience thus far.


The things I didn't like:
1.) More expensive and the prices are increasing all the time
This is true - fortunately I locked in at $8500.

2.) Smaller firebox
I guess - it is pretty big as far as I am concerned. 36 inch long pieces fit and you can put a lot in there.

3.) The wood you burn has to be either split or 6" or less and has to be dried well
I have not heard this, nor is it mentioned in the manual. I'll let folks know when I fire it up.

4.) New technology. He said there were five solenoids in it.
3 solenoids in the wood only model.

He also said in the summer, he heard there was a problem with the fires going out because of the long periods between the times the boiler was needed to heat and it was hard to restart unless you have oil or propane back up.

there is only a propane back-up option. That said, I ususally would have to restart the fire in my 5036 in the summer after going a week on a burn for DHW. I think in general you will get less summertime smoke issues if you burn a fire get your tank up to temp and let the fire go out and then relight when you need to. This doesn't seem new to me.


He also said the company was thinging about putting on a timer that would periodically add some oxygen so the fire wouldn't go out.

That would be a good idea.

I'll let folks know how it goes.

Pete

Hope this helps any of you that were looking into this boiler.[/quote]

Pete Antos-Ketcham said:

FWIW - here is my experience thus far.



I'll let folks know how it goes.

Pete

Click to expand...

[/quote]

So whats the status over there Pete??

ISeeDeadBTUs said:

Pete Antos-Ketcham said:

FWIW - here is my experience thus far.



I'll let folks know how it goes.

Pete

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

So whats the status over there Pete??[/quote]

Furnace is on the pad and the thermopex and electric are in place. Just waiting for final hookup and fill-up with water. Likely this coming week. In the meantime I am cutting my wood and I making it 30 inches long and I am not worrying about the 6" inch thing because I have not heard that this is for real. Hopefully next week I'll have an update.

Pete

1st post, begin reading for several months

Just spoke with dealer today and got quote also. Also some qestions

Was told by dealer 8 in diameter and 32 in length for log is best, and good and dry.

How high can a chimmney off the e-2300 be?

I am consider placing furance under my deck and running a pipe up along side my existing chimmney, run would be greater then 40 ft?


Do not mean to high jack thread, will start another one if required.

Thanks for all the info, this has been really helpful.

kubatob7500 said:

1st post, begin reading for several months

Just spoke with dealer today and got quote also. Also some qestions

Was told by dealer 8 in diameter and 32 in length for log is best, and good and dry.

How high can a chimmney off the e-2300 be?

I am consider placing furance under my deck and running a pipe up along side my existing chimmney, run would be greater then 40 ft?


Do not mean to high jack thread, will start another one if required.

Thanks for all the info, this has been really helpful.

Click to expand...

My understanding is that the chimney can be as high as you need it. However, it will create a stronger draw which could cause your wood to burn down more during idle mode than if the chimney was shorter. Hard to say until you see it in action. The other down side to a lot of chimney is cost. $180 per 4 foot section.

Pete

Any updates? I would really like to see a video during operation, something the manufacturer claims not to have?

No longer placing under deck, to long of a run.

Already have other site picked out.

Not sure what to do? Alot of money to spent on stove?

Need to make decision soon.

I have had the eClassic for the past winter. I have placed in many dry logs around 16" in diameter. They burned fine. I would suggest, however: 1) Adding them to a fire with a good bed of coals, 2) Adding a few small sticks around them, and 3) checking every 12 hours to see that they are working their way to the bottom (2 large logs can wedge themselves. I split all my wood by hand and when I have a difficult piece, I don't fret - just toss it on the pile. We get a lot of dead elm that I rarely bother to split anymore as it burns fine as is.

Check with your dealer for sale prices. In Minnesota can get one for $8376 from in dealer stock till March 31.

Greg, what does that price include?

I visited a local Central Boiler dealer and he said accessories to install the boiler would pretty much eat up the rebate. He also said their is a delivery charge from the factory, and then a delivery charge to my house. Then you add piping, etc...

I received an advertisement from a dealer I had talked to earlier. Price says Retail 10,790, rebate 2414, final price 8376. It reads must take Thermopex, in stock only, dual ready extra, camo extra, installation available now, winter sale ends March 31. I am sure delivery to house is extra but not mentioned in add.

Hi everyone. Just joined this forum. Searching for more info. on boilers. I have the Central Boiler Classic. I purchased it in Oct. Of 08.

I was reading the info. on Central Boiler. About having so many in stock. When I got mine in Oct. 08 I was on a waiting list. And, they were building them to order, then when they had a load for a certain area, they were shipped out. I love right by !-94 in central Mn. and you would see a load every couple of days heading through.

Yeah. The price on them went crazy. If I would of gotten mine 6 months earlier. I would of saved about a grand.

I got the CL5036. 196 gallons at 25,000 BTU's. Replaces up to 250 gallons of fuel oil per month.

Which is what I was using, in the cold months. So I am about maxed out for the size.

I ordered all of my pipe, exchangers and fitting from
in Wisconsin. . He sells the Insulated PEX pipe, for $4.50 a foot, and the R-value is equal to the stuff with Central Boiler. Because he sells so much, and 5 people don't get a cut on it before it gets to you.

I really screwed up when I got my pump. Trying to save a few bucks, and not doing the proper research. The pump I got said it was good for 100'. Thinking that it was only 90' to my exchanger. I got that pump. But the 100' was total. And all together I have about 230' of pipe. So my pump is only pumping around 5-8 gallons per min.

So I burned twice as much wood, as I should of. i should get my new larger pump tomorrow.

Now the boiler will be at 185, and the air coming from the vent from the exchanger is only around 100.

I to was thinking about adding a used 240 gallo0n fuel oil tank to my boiler. First I will flush it out, several times.

I was reading on this,in this forum. The guy who was thinking about adding a 1000 gallon tank.
Then someone mentioned, the oil, contaminating the water. If cleaned properly. I don't see a problem with this. What in the little bit of oil, could hurt the boiler?

With the proper additive the get the waters PH correct, and the sludge conditioner. I can't see any problem with rust.

Am I wrong in my thinking, before I go through the work of doing this?


Thanks,

Doug

The pump I got said it was good for 100’. Thinking that it was only 90’ to my exchanger. I got that pump. But the 100’ was total. And all together I have about 230’ of pipe. So my pump is only pumping around 5-8 gallons per min.

Click to expand...

Keep in mind that approximately pump head increases by the square of the increase in gpm, in other words, really rises fast. What's your pipe diameter? What pump did you start with? What pump are you switching to?

Thanks Greg

$8376 isn't a bad price. Do people pay for shipping to their local dealer on top of that? The local dealer wants to charge that, and then delivery to my house. The two together adds another $600, plus tax, so I am looking at $9500 out the door, after rebate?

Keep in mind that approximately pump head increases by the square of the increase in gpm, in other words, really rises fast. What’s your pipe diameter?
The inside 1 inch ID pex lines are made from REHAU PEX or WIRSBO

What pump did you start with? Can't find it on his store. He has another model there now.but it is a BELL & GOSSETT, but a smaller cheaper unit. I paid $89 for it.

The guy who I got it from, said by changing to this pump, below, will be day and night, difference. I didn't talk with him, unfortunately, before I bought the cheap one. Try to save a buck, and pay for it 100 times!!

What pump are you switching to? $189

BELL & GOSSETT PL36 INTERNAL LUBRICATED PUMP NOT WATER LUBRICATED LIKE OTHER PUMPS. THE PUMP U R BUYING IS THE RED ONE AND IS A CAST IRON PUMP
SERIES PL™
· B&G;’s powerful, dry-motor design delivers exceptional performance
· 25% more efficient than competition
· Precision-machined and balanced alloy steel rotor for superior performance. Series-PL
· Solid "Stiff-Shaft" design is constructed of high-strength alloy steel impervious to cracking caused by thermal stresses.
· XL-11™ Precision-Crafted Bearing System
· Permanently oil lubricated
· Completely maintenance free
· Advanced close-coupled design increases pump life and efficiency, assures dependable seasonal start-ups and can easily handle difficult water conditions
· Tough, durable seal system features a carbon/silicon carbide seal on a stainless steel shaft sleeve for long life and rugged operation
· Double sided stainless steel neck ring for optimum efficiency

Operating Data
Maximum working pressure . . . . . . . . . . . .150 psi (10.3 bar)
Maximum operating temperature . . . . . . . . . . 225°F (107°C)

found the first pump


Keep in mind that approximately pump head increases by the square of the increase in gpm, in other words, really rises fast. What’s your pipe diameter?
The inside 1 inch ID pex lines are made from REHAU PEX or WIRSBO

What pump did you start with? $79.95

25 GPM PUMP BELL AND GOSSET
System Lubricated Iron Body Circulators - Red Fox NRF-22,
· High starting torque for dependable seasonal start-ups (Up to 80% more than competing circulators)
· Unique B&G;DuraGlide Bearing System assures years of trouble-free start-ups NRF-22
· Closed impeller design improves operating efficiency
· Backed by B&G;'s representatives and a 3-year warranty--the best in the business
· DuraGlide Bearing System incorporates several components working together to eliminate seasonal freeze-up
· Stabilized, heat resistant, polypropylene impeller, its closed design improves operating efficiency
· Self-cleaning particle shield protects the shaft and bearings from system start-up debris
· One-piece, high-nickel stainless steel stator can isolates the stator from system fluid and maintains precision bearing alignment for longer bearing life
· Carbon bearings, diamond-like ceramic shaft and generous clearances are more resistant to lime, chloride and oxide build-up
· Face plate and rotor sleeve feature corrosion resistant stainless steel construction for longer life

The guy who I got it from, said by changing to this pump, below, will be day and night, difference. I didn’t talk with him, unfortunately, before I bought the cheap one. Try to save a buck, and pay for it 100 times!!

What pump are you switching to? $189

BELL & GOSSETT PL36 INTERNAL LUBRICATED PUMP NOT WATER LUBRICATED LIKE OTHER PUMPS. THE PUMP U R BUYING IS THE RED ONE AND IS A CAST IRON PUMP
SERIES PL™
· B&G;’s powerful, dry-motor design delivers exceptional performance
· 25% more efficient than competition
· Precision-machined and balanced alloy steel rotor for superior performance. Series-PL
· Solid “Stiff-Shaft” design is constructed of high-strength alloy steel impervious to cracking caused by thermal stresses.
· XL-11™ Precision-Crafted Bearing System
· Permanently oil lubricated
· Completely maintenance free
· Advanced close-coupled design increases pump life and efficiency, assures dependable seasonal start-ups and can easily handle difficult water conditions
· Tough, durable seal system features a carbon/silicon carbide seal on a stainless steel shaft sleeve for long life and rugged operation
· Double sided stainless steel neck ring for optimum efficiency

Operating Data
Maximum working pressure . . . . . . . . . . . .150 psi (10.3 bar)
Maximum operating temperature . . . . . . . . . . 225°F (107°C)

Approximations for the pumps you list:
Assume 230' - 1" straight run pipe, no L's, T's, etc.
NRF-22 will move about 7 gpm
PL-36 will move about 11-12 gpm

BTUH capacity (no line loss) for each assuming delta-T = 20:
10,000 btuh/gal
NRF-22 = 70,000 btuh
PL-36 = 110-120,000 btuh

Each degree of line loss from delta-T = 20 is 5500 btuh.

Approximations for the pumps you list:
Assume 230' - 1" straight run pipe, no L's, T's, etc.
NRF-22 will move about 7 gpm
PL-36 will move about 11-12 gpm

BTUH capacity (no line loss) for each assuming delta-T = 20:
10,000 btuh/gal
NRF-22 = 70,000 btuh
PL-36 = 110-120,000 btuh

Each degree of line loss from delta-T = 20 is 5500 btuh for PL-36 and 3500 btuh for NRF-22.