a little help . please

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hoot gibson

Member
Jan 25, 2008
32
ohio
hi guys , i need a little help i think . i put a stove in a house for my friend this past summer , we have been fighting it all winter . there dont seem to be getting any air in the burnchamber , when the door is cracked a little it burns great . shut the door , it just smolders . there is a rod on the bottom , but it just opens air up to the stack to help the chimney draw . im thinking i need to drill two 3/4 inch holes in the side up front just above the fire brick with slide adjusters on them . why would anybody build a wood stove that dosent have any way to let some air into the burn chamber ? the name is magnolia , bought at our local t s c store . hoot
 

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I'm not familiar with the stove, but there's certainly got to be an air control on her somewhere. What is the chimney setup?
 
I think this is the manual for the stove in the picture. In here there is a picture of the bottom the stove where the air intake rod connects to the air intake plate. Make sure that it is connected and operating. It looks like it is above the ash pan. It also says the handle should be all the way out for max air.

http://www.usstove.com/Downloads/Owners Manuals/2015 Manual.pdf
 
yes , thats the stove i beleve http://www.usstove.com/proddetail.php?prod=2015&PHPSESSID=1c0aaf77e36915608555ce54af3efc24

when the rod at the bottom is pulled all the way out . it just lets air in the top of the stove to help the stove draw i think . it dosnt make any difference weather its in or out ,its not connected to the burn chamber its self. it dont go to the burn chamber it goes in above , the bottom and three sides other than the door are lined with fire brick . there is a hole in the bottom of the stove called a ash hole for letting or raking ashes into the ash pan .it is coverd with a fire brick. but with this open and the brick removed covering the hole. you cant control the air intake and it burns wide open , so to speek .
 
karri0n said:
I'm not familiar with the stove, but there's certainly got to be an air control on her somewhere. What is the chimney setup?

it runs up 3' and turnes out the wall with tripple wall pipe . it is 10 feet away from the peek of the roof and 3 feet above the peek. it still dont draw well , till i crack the door a littl e , even with the draft slide all the way open .
 
I think I have your problem. You say three sides are covered with brick, the manual shows the center brick in the rear wall missing. That is where the air intake seems to be. Is there a brick covering the air intake. I would remove the bricks at the rear and play with the air intake to see if you can see where it should be coming in from. Do this with the stove cold just to investigate.
 
Hurricane said:
I think I have your problem. You say three sides are covered with brick, the manual shows the center brick in the rear wall missing. That is where the air intake seems to be. Is there a brick covering the air intake. I would remove the bricks at the rear and play with the air intake to see if you can see where it should be coming in from. Do this with the stove cold just to investigate.


ok , i know what you are saying , but i think that spot is where the squair pipe runs to the top . i will check when the stove cools down , and let you know , thanks , it might be tomarrow she lives 45 minets away . thanks h
 
the empty spot in the picture is where the square pipe runs all the way to the top of the stove to help the chimmny drw , i just had her look . i just dont see where its getting any air . i have never seen a wood stove without air to the combustion chamber , i will keep digging , might give u.s. stoves a call . thanks again hoot
 
well guys . i called u.s. stoves , and told them my problem . the lady on the other end of the line said . i have to remove the stove pipe from the top of the stove . reach down in the hole . there are two fire bricks laying on top. pick them up and drop them through the holes they are covering into the fire box , and remove them from the fire box. i said i didnt read anything in the manual about this . she said we are suposed to do it . then hung up. so they must have missed that when getting the stove ready for shipping ..lol. but i remember last month removing the stove pipe and cleaning with a vacume all the crud in there . i didnt remember seeing any holes or fire brick . but i will check tomarrow . h
 
Stupid question....is your wood seasoned? Verify burning problem with a load of kiln-dried from the supermarket?
 
no sir , that is not a stupid question . my son ( not the problem stobe) was buying seasond wood from a man , was having trouble keeping it burning , and getting it started . i made a trip to see him and the guy was selling him green oak . water would just boil out of it . lol. my son didnt know any better , i cant move fire wood to him because of the ash borer quarentine . im just going down this spring and cut him up a 3 or 4 cords . tell him if he needs any buy in the spring . i have burnt wood most of my life . yes . the wood is seasond .. thanks h
 
Hoot,

That sounds like they made a mistake, Let me know how it works out after correcting it.
 
well guys , my buddy karen just called and she said she took the stack off and removed two 6x8 inch fire bricks from the inside top of the burn chamber . but being its 60 plus deg. here im not sure when she is going to have another fire . probably a little one tonight . i will let you know how it works . wonder why thhose fire bricks were there in the first place . h
 
I still think that is the air control knob/slide in front of the stove. Not that the fire brick issue was not the culprit but that air control needs to be used.
 
CTwoodburner said:
I still think that is the air control knob/slide in front of the stove. Not that the fire brick issue was not the culprit but that air control needs to be used.


yes i beleve you are right , but it couldnt get any air with the bricks in place . dont understand why they were there in the first place . i will see her tomarrow and ask how the burn is . h
 
with the bricks out , the thing burns like crazy . now she is wondering if her flew temp. coming out of the stove will be to hot , what do you guys try to run the temp at . for those who have a thermomater on the flew pipe , thanks , hoot
 
sustained burn = 400-600 on a condar probe type. Below 400 smokes unless late in the burn cycle. Above 600 and less than 1000 during start-up burns and to get stove up to temp but never more than 1/2 hour and never that long toward the upper end. Above 1000 - only happened once and it got my attention - will save that story for another day.
 
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