WWW.Kotly.com

Tips for importing your own boiler.

1) THE COMPANY -- Most, if not all, overseas companies want to be paid in full before they ship the product. This is standard practice and is done all the time. Just make sure it is a reputable company that you want to do business with. Ask for customers that they have dealt with in the States and actually call them to get there input. If you get screwed, it is your own fault for not doing the research.


2) SHIPPING -- The cost for shipping is usually from port to port. This is included in your final payment when you take the plunge. It should be CIF – cost, insurance, freight. Cost of the product, Insurance incase the boat sinks, and the Freight charge to ship it. If you want it delivered to your house, you have to make the arrangements yourself with a local shipping company. If you go this way, it will cost you a lot more money, so I recommend to pick it up at the port. This is a link to all the US Customs Ports of Entry available that you can ship to. http://www.cbp.gov/xp/cgov/toolbox/contacts/ports/ Click your state and find the port you want it shipped to – make sure it is a Service Port. If you have any questions – call the customer service number for the port. Also, the more product you ship, the shipping charges are less. For example – if one boiler will cost $800, two maybe $1200. These are not actual numbers, just an example. The best deals are full containers. You get substantial discounts in shipping and product cost.


3) PAYMENT -- The wire transfer is the common payment and most big banks will do this for you for a fee. I recommend sending it in the currency of that country. This will save money because these foreign companies don’t want our currency. They would have to get it exchanged from USD to there local currency and will gladly pass the higher exchange rate on to you. I would say 95% of the time you can get a better exchange rate at your bank then the supplier is willing to give you. You will need the Bank Name, Bank Address, Account Number and sometimes other numbers. This may take several trips to the bank so call ahead of time to see what the bank will need from you for the transaction. Every bank is different.

4) AFTER THE PAYMENT -- After the payment is sent, your product will be sent to the ship yard. There, it will sit and wait for other products that are going to the same port. This is called consolidating the shipments, so your one boiler will be consolidated with many other shipments in one container. Your product my sit at the ship yard for 60 days until the container is full. It all depends on what is there and when.

5) CUSTOMS AND PAPERWORK – After your boiler is in the container and on the boat, you will receive a original BOL in the mail. The Bill Of Lading is a very important document so don’t loose it and make several copies of it. It has all the information on it about the shipment. Who sent the item, who is receiving the item, description of the item, weight of the item etc. Now that you have the BOL, you can start to go to work. Call the receiving shipping company immediately. They want you to wait until you get another form called “Notice Of Arrival”, but I like to establish contact before that form comes. It makes the paperwork start flowing before the product is 1 week from port. They will tell you what they need from you in advance. Half of the time, the receiving shipping company is also a Import/Export broker. I highly recommend using a broker to get your boiler through customs – I cant say that enough. They handle all your paperwork and take care of the head aches. You can do your own customs clearance paperwork, but be prepared for a long process. You most likely will have to go to the Customs office several times to fill out the paperwork and make payments. If they don’t provide that service, ask them if they can recommend someone that does. Once you find a broker, ask for all the pricing up front. They like to add hidden costs. You will also have to sign forms that give them permission to take ownership of your shipment. Any forms that you get, make copies of them and put them all in one place – a folder. The “Notice Of Arrival” is another form you will get by mail or fax from the receiving shipping company. This is very similar to the BOL but it gives you the “actual” arrival date of your product. Most of the time the arrival date on the BOL is not the same as the arrival date on the Notice Of Arrival. This is due to weather and shipping delays. At this point you will start to receive billing notices from your broker for all kinds of fees. They will be loading fees, broker fees, customs fees all kinds of stuff but NOT DUTY FEES. There are no duty fees for importing a wood boiler. If your broker tells you that there is a duty fee, they are wrong and have the wrong tariff number. Make sure the number is 8403.10.00 and here is the link http://hotdocs.usitc.gov/docs/tata/hts/bychapter/0901htsa.pdf The only duty fee should be no more then $20 to process the paperwork. Remember, all the other fees you should be a where of because your broker told you what they will be ahead of time. The only substantial fee that can surprise you, and your broker cant tell you if it applies or not, is the “Inspection Fee”. The “Inspection Fee” is when a container comes into port and Customs wants to inspect it. This fee is divided amongst how many shipments are consolidated in the container. I am not sure if it divided by weight or by actual shipments. This fee is around $3,000 per container and only happens 3-5% of the time.


6) FINAL PAYMENT – Once you pay all the bills you will receive a release. The release basically says you paid all the fees and your boiler cleared customs. The only thing left to do is pick it up at the port. Sometimes they will get you for a loading fee to load it on the back of your truck. Also, don’t show up with a Honda – they will refuse to load it.


7) AT YOUR OWN RISK – I wrote this to try and help people out that want to save some money and import things on there own. My only intention is to help you – that’s it. I am not getting paid for writing this in any way shape or form. This is all based on my own experience and it my not be the same as your experience. I am not an expert, I am the average Joe trying to save a buck. So don’t send any hate mail to me if you have problems. This is a AT YOUR OWN RISK write up. I couldn’t include all the information because it will turn into a book. I only supplied the basic knowledge on the subject and a lot is left out. In general, importing is very easy, so don’t be scared of the unknown. I had no clue how to import things, but I took the plunge and reaped the rewards. GOOD LUCK


8) GOOD READING LINKS--- http://www.cbp.gov/linkhandler/cgov/newsroom/publications/trade/iius.ctt/iius.doc http://www.cbp.gov/xp/cgov/newsroom/publications/trade/ http://www.cbp.gov/xp/cgov/trade/basic_trade/internet_purchases.xml http://www.cbp.gov/xp/cgov/trade/trade_programs/duty_rates/determining.xml http://hotdocs.usitc.gov/docs/tata/hts/bychapter/0901htsa.pdf

I have both imported and exported in the past and I used a broker by the name of A.N. Deringer. They were great. Did just about everything for me. I believe they are represented at most ports. This was several years ago but I believe they are still in business.

I don't see A.N. Deringer for the Port of Philadelphia.....does anybody have any experience with any of the brokers listed for Philly?
http://apps.cbp.gov/brokers/index.asp?portCode=1101

I can't help with a Philly broker. I did call A.N Deringer though for Chicago & was told I needed to fill out a credit check. I explained it wasn't necessary as I would pay cash, they explained it "was" necessary or they wouldn't do business with me. Cash needs to verified with them. I can't pass a ck because of an old row with an old IP. They were polite, they just couldn't help me, co. policy. I called AlFase & so far they have been great(didn't see them listed for Philly). I will be hiring them. ALFase accepts an MO as payment. Instead of the we can't help you attitude it's, yes we can. They are very well informed & on top of the new regs. Good luck, Randy

Who takes care of the warranty when you import your own boiler?

I think the old maxim applies - "those who deal with the lowest bidder should add something for the risk they run".....and then the second part of that "once you add the proper amount, you may have had enough to get the right thing from the right supplier in the first place".

Personally, I would NEVER purchase such a machine in this fashion. Never. Maybe I'd buy a freestanding stove this way....maybe. But not a machine which could leak, has fancy controls, needs experienced installation, etc. etc.

Hi Craig; I figured I'm on my own anyways. There isn't one gasifier seller that I am aware of that will warrant a self installed boiler with the possible exception of Woodgun. I don't have the money to pay a Master plumber thousands of dollars for an install. Yes, it sure would be nice to be able to go to a nearby store & just pick one up & have someone install it. On top of that the Atmos supplier CGH was advertising on Ebay no shipping. They have changed this right after I ordered my boiler & now ship. Hopefully everthing will turn out alright. I'll keep posting with the results, Randy

Maybe a stupid question but...What exactly is Kotly? Some kind of European distributor?

Kotly is part of Prosat, a Polish boiler & acessaries distributor. www.kotly.com I've read the UK forums & it is difficult to beat their prices. They are even cheaper than buying directly from Atmos in the CZ Republic for boilers.

Is anybody going to be placing an order in the near future? I am considering doing so. Within the next 2-3 weeks. I could have it shipped to Chicago or Cleveland. Got a price 2 days ago, was $1100 to ship to Chicago. Waiting for a response to ship it to Cleveland.

I was going to place an order in a month & a half or so for the Laddomat 21 etc that I couldn't scrape up the money for when I bought my boiler. I don't know if you are looking at an Atmos or Eko, Atmos states it must be run with either an ESBE or Laddomat 21. I don't believe the EKO will live as long will cold water entering it either. I'll let you know when I get the money for the other install items I need. PS, A Laddomat 21 is $300.00 from Kotly, you can't match that price here. If put inside your boiler, free shipping. Randy