New wood stove install (help the noob)

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jhale2004

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Feb 6, 2009
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My first post... : )

After this years natural gas prices I have decided to take advantage of my access to pretty much unlimited firewood. Would someone mind to please give me reccomendations on my idea here? The picture below is our living room. I was considering installing the wood stove on a pad in front of that window and moving the sofa on the other side of the room. I guess I could do a through-the-wall or ceiling install here? I had been eyeballing a new Vogelzang Highland withi the blower from Northern Tool. Home is approx 1k sq ft. I feel confident this stove with the blower and being under the ceiling fan would do well keeping our house warm. Can someone just tell me what I would need to install a chimney here over the window or through the ceiling?
DSCF4683.jpg
 
Well, in front of window blocks view. Snap some more pics of room. You'll need 1. stove - an EPA certified is best - is Highland EPA stove? 2. Stove pipe 3. Transition box 4. Class A chimney 5. Flashing, storm collar, rain cap. I have exactly what you need - a cathedral ceiling Selkirk Metalbestos chimney system. I got it with a used stove and didn't use it b/c I have flat ceilings and ordering flat ceiling parts from dealer was more than a whole chimney system from Lowes. Too bad we are too far apart.
 
That wall is really the only place I could have it. The wall to the left is open to the kitchen and the right is the garage. Behind is office and to behind left is bathroom, a closet and other bedroom.
 
If you do a through the roof install, your placement could be about anywhere. With the cathedral ceilings your install would be the same as mine. I went straight up through the ceiling. Single wall pipe up to the support box and five feet of class A through the roof. With this you not only get heat from the length of single wall in the house, but you also save money as you wont have to go through your wall then through the eve of the house. just remember to pay attention to all required clearences for a safe install.
 
I could place it to the left of the big window and it would be at the peak of the roof. Should make installation cheaper since I wouldnt have to have as much chimney outside? Just use the black pipe up to the cealing and probably 5ft of double or triple wall above the roof would be good.
 
There is also a prefab or manufactured fireplace in the house. Could I use that to exhaust a stove some way?
 
Maybe. Though it might mean installing an approved insert, if the prefab unit qualifies. We'll need to know more about the make/model of the fireplace and its firebox dimensions. Only certain combos qualify. Can you provide the particulars about the fireplace?
 
I know the brand is Temco. It is about worthless as far as putting out heat and it makes the house smell sometimes. I enjoy fireplaces but this one is just pitiful. Here are some pics, maybe these will help.

DSCF6046.jpg


DSCF6047.jpg
 
I would also suggest trying to find wood soon. Something that was split at least a couple months ago.
 
The picture is a bit blurry and I think the model number shown might be for the glass doors. Does that model number show up on the plate right above? It'll be something like TLC-36 or TCH4429.

I would think that a mid-sized insert like the Lopi Revere, Pacific Energy Pacific, Quadrafire 3100i, Regency 2400i, etc. would possibly work here. Just guessing without knowing the actual fireplace model or firebox size. The surrounding wood trim would have to go, but perhaps could be replaced with a nice tiled surround frame? Are the patio stones permanent or just set on the floor?
 
They are just setting on the floor right now. WAs an ugly concrete slab there that had cracked so we laid these down and havent gotten around to the mortar yet. The model number isTEC36-5J
 
Could I arrange for a boxwood stove to sit in front maybe? Possibly take the doors off the fireplace and cover up the opening just leaving a hole for the pipe from the stove to go in and exit throught the chimney of the fireplace? Would this be safe? I could lay more stone in front for it to sit on.
 
I thought about fabricating my own. I am kind of handy with a welder. I am just worried if it would be safe to set it up that way.
 
mike honcho said:
I thought about fabricating my own. I am kind of handy with a welder. I am just worried if it would be safe to set it up that way.
Click to expand...

Hmmm....as respectful to home DIY type people as I am, I can see many short comings to this idea. Things like insurance, inspection, safety, clean burning all pop into my head. Without documentation, you will also have to use the max clearance to combustibles figures out there, for your install.

Keep in mind that todays stoves are a bit different than yesteryears. They are much cleaner and air friendly and much more efficient than the old smoke dragons. Its really not a technology that is difficult, but probably not easily reproduced in the garage or shop.

Don't give up your hopes yet. You still have options (and I may very well be wrong trying to guesstimate your opening size.)
 
i agree with those advising a straight up flue system rather that a through the wall and up , you will get better performance that way, easier cleaning (imho) and i feel a cleaner looking install. as for the unit you selected it is EPA phase 2 certified see link http://www.vogelzang.com/tr003.htm i have to hand it to VZ they are starting to come around to providing some better stoves. actually they are getting to the point where they are competing in our market. i'll accept that now that they make some decent units. i havent seen this stove other than the pictures and specs on the site above , looks to be a competant unit and a very good price point. smoke (PM count) is kinda high for that type stove , but it is within phase 2 so cant complain. likely not a bad unit to start out with, it'll definately outheat the ZC fireplace you have pictured. hope this helps. be sure to perouse the hearth.com archives for posts about class a flue systems. there are some great examples listed in here from our members.

hope this helps, BTW feel free to ask questions if ya like, aint my stove but i'll help as much as i can.
 
mike honcho said:
I could place it to the left of the big window and it would be at the peak of the roof. Should make installation cheaper since I wouldnt have to have as much chimney outside? Just use the black pipe up to the cealing and probably 5ft of double or triple wall above the roof would be good.
Click to expand...

might work if stove clearances allow it, as for single wall black pipe , you can not exceed 10 ft with it so measure before purchase of the pipe. if more than 10 ft then double wall would fit the bill.
 
I was thinking to fab my own or use a smaller box stove and I could fab my own legs or do something with the existing ones to justify for height. Lay some firebrick inside it and have some more stones to be under the stove.
 
mike honcho said:
I was thinking to fab my own or use a smaller box stove and I could fab my own legs or do something with the existing ones to justify for height. Lay some firebrick inside it and have some more stones to be under the stove.
Click to expand...

Uh oh.
 
mike honcho said:
I was thinking to fab my own or use a smaller box stove and I could fab my own legs or do something with the existing ones to justify for height. Lay some firebrick inside it and have some more stones to be under the stove.
Click to expand...

No-no-no...bad doggie! I would highly recommend that you stick with an epa cert stove. And VERY highly recommend that you don't alter said epa stove. Doing that is gonna void everything, including clearance to combustibles, the warranty, and anybody that would sign off on any kind of safety inspection, probably your insurance, etc.

I - myself am a pretty decent welder and fab guy in my own shop (and mind :p ). I would never consider building a box that goes into my HOUSE with 1200 degree fires in it. I simply do NOT have the ability to research the safety side of it. The mfg units do. They have to. And are then Certified with specifics on how close you can put it to walls, floors, ceilings, etc.

This isn't even taking into consideration the clean burn/efficiency side of the EPA stoves. Thats a whole 'nuther discussion.

Find a stove that will do what you need. Its out there.

Mike - Don't take this as a sermon, but safety first my man.
 
No offense, but I realize that TSC has cheap stoves. It is well worth it to never go back there again for your stoves. I'm totally against debt in every way, but I consider a good stove an investment. Money well spent. If mine broke today... I would be looking for a cheaper used stove that's epa certified that's known as a good stove. The volzang things may be awesome, but they're new and not many reviews have been out. You can look up tons of stoves here and see if they are an ok stove. If I couldn't find a good used stove, then I'd have to buy one new and even finance it if I didn't have the money. I know a quality stove seems like a whole lot more money compared to a Boxwood, but you'll be much happier and a whole lot safer. I'm just trying to keep you from making a $500 mistake and ending up unhappy and finally buying a better unit. Just spend that $500 into a quality unit and you'll be much happier once burning season rolls around.
 
Mike, I can appreciate that you are trying to balance budget with heating needs, but underneath this decision should be an unvarying rule that the whole installation has to be safe and manageable - under all circumstances. An inexpensive stove often has to cut out extras that might be important to saving money in the long run. Typically they cut out blowers, ash pans and most importantly in this case, heat shielding. Some mfgs. offer the shielding as an accessory to reduce clearances. Without this shielding you may need to make significant increases in the hearth insulation costs and distance from combustible wall surfaces.

Modifying the stove out of the box, especially when it comes to bringing a raging hot fire closer to combustibles in the middle of your house is a bad idea. You want a healthy safety margin here. The stove will get very hot, sometimes more than one might imagine. Don't go down this path. Uh oh, sums it up precisely.
 
Haha. No offense taken guys. I appreciate all of you responding! This is the reason why I posted here before any decision has been made. I really would like to find a free stander to work in front of this pre fab fireplace. We rent this house and I do not want to put a hole in the roof or out a wall. I suppose I could and just repair it in a few years when we eventually leave.
 
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