Spray Foam Insulation

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Vic99

Vic99

Minister of Fire
Dec 13, 2006
857
MA, Suburb of Lowell
So this summer I'm stripping most of the first floor walls down to the studs . Before adding sheet rock, I'm going to insulate. This will be a 30 x 15 foot living room where my wood stove is located. I'm considering spray foam. I figure that minus the windows I'm looking at around 400 square feet.

Today I was taking to contractors at a home show. One guy said he'd do it for around $1,200. Another guy said there was a one time home use kit that you could by for closed cell insulation.

Anyone have any experience applying spray foam?

Any info on the kits (ease of use & cost)?
 
I used to spray foam insulation in the walls of reefer trailers. When doing so, we would have to shave the insulation flush with the posts, as you will have to do with the studs. It can get messy.
One thing to consider is, if you want to add wiring or such later on, its not going to be real fun trying to fish wire through the foam insulation.
Are the walls 2x6 or 2x4 construction? I would think f/g would be less costly.

As far as the kits, I was pricing them a few months back. They ain't cheap.
I am not sure how long the pack lasts, but the nozzles are a one shot deal. If the foam sets up inside then, you must replace the nozzle.
 
I would highly recomend spray foam. My wife and I built an addition (with spray foam) last summer and this being our first winter with it and it it works great. I understand it's pricy but well worth the cost.

Go for it!

Ryan
 
Can anybody comment on the time it takes to spray a room vs the time it takes to put up fg?

Matt
 
Hog & Czar:

The walls are 2 x4 construction. Behind that is clapboards that are in good shape. Over the clap is blue board and then vinyl siding. Understood about wiring and such. I have tried to think that through and as a result would like to include extra outlets, update old wiring, etc.

No one knows about the cost? I agree that fiberglass would be less money, but I would like to slow air movement as well as heat loss. As a result, my whole house would not be air tight, but 1/2 of the first floor (one large room) would be. Since it is the stove room, I would think that less air and heat infiltration through the exterior walls would foster more movement of heat through the house. I'm not as worried about the house being over tight for that reason and because I already have overdraft on my stove . . . . as discussed in other threads, a problem I hope to remedy either with changing the stove pipe venting to up instead of straight back and a stove pipe damper or getting a new stove (for many other reasons discussed in other threads and probably not relevant here).
 
Took 2 guys 5 hours to spray a truck bay 20x42 with 18' ceiling. I think they were new at it so I believe that time could be halved.
I highly recomend spray foam. The heat alone from the engine of the truck will keep that bay 50+ degrees for 12 hours when it is 10 degrees outside. I think you could literally heat this bay for next to nothing when the door stays closed.
 
Vic99 said:
Hog & Czar:

The walls are 2 x4 construction. Behind that is clapboards that are in good shape. Over the clap is blue board and then vinyl siding. Understood about wiring and such. I have tried to think that through and as a result would like to include extra outlets, update old wiring, etc.

No one knows about the cost? I agree that fiberglass would be less money, but I would like to slow air movement as well as heat loss. As a result, my whole house would not be air tight, but 1/2 of the first floor (one large room) would be. Since it is the stove room, I would think that less air and heat infiltration through the exterior walls would foster more movement of heat through the house. I'm not as worried about the house being over tight for that reason and because I already have overdraft on my stove . . . . as discussed in other threads, a problem I hope to remedy either with changing the stove pipe venting to up instead of straight back and a stove pipe damper or getting a new stove (for many other reasons discussed in other threads and probably not relevant here).
Click to expand...

I paid $1.70 sq ft about 3 years ago for 1.5" thick application. It figured out to 30% more $ than FG at the time. The thing with foam is you get a solid barrier with no cracks or separations for heat to escape through. It is definetly the way to go.
 
It was a little less then twice the cost for spray foam from fiberglass.
 
I just got my bid back for my new house for foam spray. He is charging me 3.00 per sq. ft. for 3 1/2" of closed cell foam. This is in Wisconsin and prices may vary. This should be r 24 in the walls. It seems the price is about the same for the original poster. If you want to save some money you can have them spray 1" for 1.00 per sq. ft.and that will close every crack and crevis. Then blow in par-pac cellulose or spray in cellulose that is kind of damp and sticks between the studs. Then just scrape off the excess and throw it in the attic. Whatever you do don't bother with fiberglass, it looses r value as it gets colder and does not stop any draft at all. It is Worse yet in the basesment between the floor joists. I had a 4 year old house and used r 19 batts. After 4 years the I joists were black and on place the I joists were already rotting .
 
We use spray (polyurethane) foam in new construction. Either a thin layer as mentioned, with fiberglass BAtts (2x6 wall) or one heavy layer. It is more expensive than FG alone, but absolutely worth it. In 2x4 I would let the contractor fill the cavity up. It will be the warmest room in your house. If your basement is unfinished have them spray the beam ends, and sill plate to fdn connection as well-- this is a huge heatloss area.
Fiberglass blankets provide a thermal blanket to insulate your house, poly.. foam stops the air flow- read drafts a great product for what you describe.
 
Yes, it seems that both the walls and sill plates are the way to go. I had entertained the sill plates and if I can afford it, I might have it done at the same time as the walls if we have a professional come in.

Right now I have fiberglass up in sill plate and across the whole basement ceiling. Does anyone else see a negative (other than initial expense) to using foam insulation on the sill plate area? Am I going to realize a significant, greater difference than fiberglass alone in the sill plate region?

Many thanks, as always.
 
Consider insulating between the studs with fiberglass and then covering the entire wall with 1/2' isoboard then sheetrock over it. Sprayfoam is great stuff but expensive for small jobs and no matter what the R value, there are still 2x4's every 16" with a lot lower R value than the foam. By running the Iso board over the studs, and taping the joints with foil tape, you get just about as tight and you can do it yourself.
 
Another advantage of spray foam that I don't think has been mentioned relates to water. In foam filled walls there are no air cavities for condensation to occur (assuming that the stud bay is filled 100% with foam). You're a lot less likely to have mold issues.
 
I had my basement stone foundation done this past fall, 40' x 30' x 5' wall , 2" thick and it run me CDN $2000. It is Great for drafting and moisture. I am considering it for my insert/tv room and almost think it may be to efficient. I would think you , if experienced, could re-insulate
with f/g and vapour barrier DIY, for half the price. Sprayfoam = leave it to the Pros.
 
Thanks for all the input. I have scheduled an energy audit for later this month. I'm hoping I'll be able to contract someone to do it.
 
Hi Vic99,

I've had pros come in and do Icynene (open-cell) for my walk-out basement remodel and an oil-based foam (closed-cell) for my above grade basement walls. I'm happy with both installations. The closed-cell has a higher R-value per inch. In the walk-out basement remodel, I added another 2" of wall thickness before I sprayed so that I had 5"+ of insulation - it needs minimal heat in the winter now, and stays cool in the summer.

I'm going to be renovating a den with an outside wall (120 square feet of insulation area). This is too small an area for a pro to come in an spray, so I'm looking at some of the spray foam kits for homeowners. Do you or anyone else now have experience with any of these kits? They pretty much look all the same to me. I've looked at Tiger Foam, Foam It Green, and Versi-Foam.
 
I used Tiger Foam, the 600 sq. ft. system. It consist of 2 ( what looks like 20# propane tanks) to do part of my house, outside walls. It was easy to install, just had to work fast. I liked it and reccomend it. They have a smaller system, I think is covers 180 sq. feet. It seemed the best in price and quality. :)
 
I was just quotes $2.70 sq ft for 3 inches of foam or $.90 per sq ft per inch. Seems the DIY kits I've seen cost more and I'd have to do it myself...
Either way I like the idea as we have a very old very drafty house and sealing the gaps is crucial.
 
Come to my small town neck of the woods and get 5.50 a square foot!
Two installers and both are in the same ball park.

I don't think I can afford it and will be installing pink in the garage ceiling.
 
I got quoted $3800.00 to do part of my house. I did it myself for $700.00, took me about 1 1/2 hours. But, that was at the time I resided my house, I didn't have to worry about patching holes.
 
If we can get Tom of Maine to chime in here, he'll have some thoughts. but I've heard him mention take solid sheets and cut to fit. A lot of work but its something you can do yourself and save money. Where the foam doesn't fit tight, spray the cracks w/foam. I know his business used to deal in foam that was at least 3 inches thick. I bought some, damn reasonable price. One of the many things I'd do over if I had to build again is not use F/G.
 
I was watching diy channel the other night, and they where usung the foam, they said it costed about 4 dolars sq foot, if you got the money go for it, sounds like it the best stuff to get
 
With the blue board in place, I'd go with FG and a good poly vapor/infiltration barrier. Most heat loss it through the roof anyways.
 
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