Seeking Ramsplitter HV-16 Electric Feedback

I prefer gas for the money, and don't think there is that much of a noise issue with a modern engine that has a decent muffler on it... I considered electric, but ended up going gas, as I felt like I got more for my money, and had the portability option if I needed it.

That said, the stuff I've heard about the Ramsplitters has been pretty good, biggest thing I would say is that you will be really maxxing out the load on that 110v circuit - get a really good extension cord - at least a 12g. It might even be worth considering putting in a 220v outlet...

Gooserider

I have this splitter, and it has been fine. I put a pressure gauge on it, and found I could bump it up from the 2000 psi factory setting to 2500 psi, but that was just playing because before I adjusted it, it splits everything I cold lift on the beam. It is compact, quiet, and splits kindling well, which is helpful because I use a lot of kindling. Out in the woods, it runs off a generator in the back of my pickup. It does not heat the oil at all, and it cycles back and forth in fourteen seconds. Bear in mind this is an eighteen inch ram. It uses a box beam, (like the arms of a tractor loader) instead of an I beam and reminds me of a big splitters baby brother. The build quality is good, good welds, good off the shelf and easily replaceable components.

It uses a 3.5 inch cylinder, which is fine. I note that the four smaller Split-Fire splitters and the fast cycle Iron and Oak splitter also used this same size cylinder. The motor does not slow on the heaviest stuff, it simply downshifts for a second to make the split and comes back to speed to shove the ram through the wood.

It's working height is about 22 inches, sort of low for me, There is always some stooping, but better than the horizontal model. Get the splitter trays, if you buy this machine, as they hold the resplits.

As Goose said, the twenty amp motor is at the edge of 110 voltage. When it is cold, zero degrees, the motor could not pull the ATF fluid and pump drag without tripping the 20 amp breaker. I rewired mine, (easy) and now run it off a 220 line in my shed. A 50 foot ten gauge extension cord gives me the flexibility to move it to that part of my wood pile that I am currently stacking. Lowes Yellow Jack extension cord is much more flexible than the Home Depot Orange cord.

My biggest problem with it, is that I forget it is running and come back to find I haven't shut it off. My neighbors borrow it, running it off their drier outlet without any problems. To use my son's term, it is "sweet".

By the way, I puzzled over, where do you put the pressure gauge? Any help? Does it go between the pump and valve or between the valve and cylinder ( my placing). A neighbor suggested adjusting the valve and then replacing the gauge with a plug so that it doesn't get broken. Done.

Hope this helps somebody,

Dave Howell

Bear in mind that 16 ton "rated" electric splitter running at 2000 psi is truly only around a 10 ton splitter and at 2500 psi it is only a 12 ton splitter. If you are splitting upwards of 30" rounds, that splitter will be pretty weak.

I thought about the electric Ramsplitter, but got the Ramsplitter 16 with the Honda 5 HP and have had it for one year.
I'd rather keep my fire wood processing operation away from my house so the gasoline model was a better choice for me.
The quality of the unit is very good and I would recommend it.
The unit is not as loud as my lawn mower but loud enough for me, that I wear hearing protection.
I have split knarly 16 to 18 dia. red oak, and it handled it ok.
I thought that the Operation and Maintenance Manual could use some work though.
Phone support was good. And at the time I ordered my splitter, they offered free shipping.

Lifted,

You are right.

Just for fun, I did the math, but a 2000 psi four inch cylinder is only 28,000 psi, as opposed to 24,000 psi , for a 2500 psi pressure in a 3.5 inch cylinder. That is about 12 percent difference.

With a gauge on the cylinder side,I find that most splits don't even bump the needle. When I use a four way wedge, quite often, it get to 1200, maybe 1500 pounds on the gauge. So I do wonder how much pressure you really need. I think that the sharpened non cast wedge does help out.

In our third growth hardwood forest in Western Maryland, few trunk section are greater than 24 inches, although specimen lawn trees are much bigger. The big thing on this splitter is that you have only an 18" of ram length, for maybe a 20" long round. I think the shorter rounds split have to split much easier than a 24" or 30" section, used, say, in a wood burning boiler.

For a homeowner, or somebody working alone, close to others, I think this is a pretty good machine. For somebody in business, or building one, as you are doing, I would go for something more powerful.

I always enjoy these conversations.

Dave Howell

pdhowell said:

<trim>By the way, I puzzled over, where do you put the pressure gauge? Any help? Does it go between the pump and valve or between the valve and cylinder ( my placing). A neighbor suggested adjusting the valve and then replacing the gauge with a plug so that it doesn't get broken. Done.

Hope this helps somebody,

Dave Howell

Click to expand...

Normally the gauge should go between the pump and the valve - I have mine at the outlet of the pump, some people put it at the inlet to the valve. That way you see what the pump is doing at all times. I leave my valve in place as it's out of the way, and I get a certain amount of entertainment value out of watching it as I split - but I bought the plug when I got the valve just in case it does have a problem, so your neighbor's idea is a good one

Gooserider

Goose,

I think you are absolutely correct. However, I plumbed my gauge into the cylinder side of the valve because the hydraulics shop, where I got the parts, pointed out I could measure either pump pressure, as you indicate, or cylinder pressure. The difference was the small amount of pressure drop occurring within the valve. Since the weakest part of my system is the 2500 psi rated cylinder, I went in that direction. Also, that location put the gauge further away from the work stream, and I was thinking it was less likely to be broken, out at the end of the cylinder.

I am not sure whether the location amounts to much in terms of pressure. Certaintly, i did not measure it.

My gauge always goes to zero, when the valve is closen, and comes alive when the ram is extending. As you indicate, gauges are fun to watch. Oak takes zero pressure, locust about 600 psi, knotty pine almost 1600 psi. There is no elm out here anymore. Does anybody have a chart?

Thanks for touching back,

Dave Howell

Well, the pump is always circulating on a gas splitter, and would be on an electric unless your setup also turns the motor on and off... However the valve is an "open center" design, that the fluid just flows through with minimal pressure drop, so it should always go to zero when the valve is in the neutral position, or close as makes no difference.

I find the big variable on splitting isn't so much the kind of wood, as it is the degree of "gnarliness" - i.e. straight grain will split easy, and crotches and knots are tough, regardless of wood type. Elm doesn't seem to be that bad with a splitter, as what I've found the problem always was with elm isn't getting it to crack, but the way all the strands hold it together so you can't get the splits apart... With a splitter the wedge just powers through, so it isn't a problem. The only thing that's annoying is it's a slower splitting wood because you have to run the wedge all the way down, then back up, while with easier splitting varietys you only have to have an inch or two of travel as the splits fall apart soon as the log cracks - so your effective cycle time is shorter.

I have a big 30-ton unit with a 5" cylinder, so my pressures will probably be a lot lower than yours but what I see typically is

Just cycling the ram up and down, no load - 300psi
Straight grain wood, <12" diameter - 300-600 - no detectable change in engine noise
Small knots, straight grain 12-24" diameter - 500-1000, possible momentary drop to low-range, slight engine "grunt"
Large knots, rounds >24" diameter - 700-1200, definite drop to low range, and definite engine load
Gnarly crotches, ugly stuff - 1200-1800, drop to low range, engine really has to grunt a bit
I don't recall seeing over 1800 during normal splitting, I will go over 3000 if I hold the lever past the cylinder end of travel, or if I put a peice in cross-ways. If I let the ram do the auto-return (usually I don't since I don't want to have to wait for it to come back down on the next stroke) it will go over 2500 momentarily before the detent kicks out.

Add a couple hundred PSI to each reading if it's cold and the fluid hasn't had a chance to really warm up...

I don't think a table is possible, other than on an individual machine basis, since there are so many variables, starting with cylinder size, wedge shape, etc.

Gooserider

I have owned this splitter for about a year and one should definitely wire it to 220. The 220 motor is better stronger and works less. Also when wiring put an on/off switch on the line because a big drawback to the splitter is their is no on/off switch. I would also be careful about using an extension cord especially one too long because of the voltage drops. Otherwise the splitter is quite up to the task only having trouble with knots. (as all splitters) If the piece is very large I split with a wedge and sledgehammer and after splitting manually once I could then use the splitter. A tree service has been dropping loads on my driveway and the splitter handles everything so far (5 cords) after I split manually once. Dennis Hershey

I also have this splitter and have been happy. But I'm not one to leave things a lone, wonder? how it would run with a 220v 2hp farm duty 3600 rpm motor. VS the factory 220v 2hp 1800 rpm motor ? Jay

wood said:

I also have this splitter and have been happy. But I'm not one to leave things a lone, wonder? how it would run with a 220v 2hp farm duty 3600 rpm motor. VS the factory 220v 2hp 1800 rpm motor ? Jay

Click to expand...

In theory, a hydraulic pump moves a certain amount of fluid per revolution, so a motor that spins twice as fast should move twice as much fluid per minute, halving cycle times, etc...

However I'd be leary of expecting such great results -

1. What is the RPM rating on the pump? Will it take being spun that fast w/o breaking down?

2. It takes more horsepower to move more volume, the usual expectation is a cube/square relationship, so to double the volume should take three times the power - would a motor with the same horsepower output at the higher speed have the power it takes to turn a pump that is moving twice the volume?

Given the general tendency of manufacturers to build things pretty much at the limit of what they are capable of, I would be surprised to see your proposition give much of an improvement if it would even run at all... My guess is that if the new motor could handle it, you might see it bog down to run somewheres near 1800RPM and produce results not much different from the OEM motor...

Gooserider

Hi folks,

Let me chime in here, and hopefully be helpful.

A couple of notes on recent posts....

If you have a 20 amp, 10 amp circuit, for a splitter like this, you need to use a 10 gauge extension cord. Even though 20 amp house wiring calls for 12 gauge wiring, that is for solid wire. Stranded wire (ie., extension cords), are supposed to be one size larger (10 gauge). Also, since a circuit is supposed to run at at only 80 percent capacity, this should really be on a 30 amp breaker, which is 10 gauge wiring. I have changed the my motor for 220 (easily done, five minutes) for the advantage of cold weather startup. If you have 30 amp wiring, such as for your drier, as do my neighbors, we just plug into that with a 50 foot 10 gauge extension cord and the drier type plug.


have not measured the amp draw. My electrical engineer friends point out that if you do not have voltage drop in your cord, the motor pulls 2200 watts wired either way, and it should not make any difference between the 110 or 220. The 220 side allows less amp pull on start up , thus diminishing breaker problems. I ran it on 110 volts for a year, and except for very cold weather in the mountains of western Maryland, i had no electrical issues except in below zero temperatures. The 110 wired motor never tripped a breaker, even when the valve went to bypass.

Also, electric motors do not slow down. They run at one speed, and if overloaded, stall and quickly overheat. My motor has an overheat cut off, never used. You do not hear the motor change pitch, no matter what the demand from the splitting.

My MTE pump on my splitter is rated at 11 gpm at 4000 rpm. Since the motor turns at 1750, my guess is that if volume is proportional to speed, then my pump is only pumping, say 4 gpm. (I could be all wrong here, so be careful with this observation). The 3.5 inch cylinder and the 18 inch ram extension requires less volume to extend the ram, and the speed if fine, for me, as I usually work alone. The cycle time, in and back, unloaded is fourteen seconds. If the valve kicks down to the high pressure side, for a moment, as it often does, it will be slightly higher.

I have no heating of the oil, which suggests there is no pump cavitation or friction in the hydraulic lines. I believe this is a benefit of the slower pump speed and lower flow.

An 18" diameter is pretty big for this splitter, but I do it all the time. Instead of splitting the round in half, you flop it on the beam and cut splits from outside in. There is much less hand handling of heavy wood chunks this way. A thirty six inch round needs more power and a bigger wedge than this machine offers. I use a monster maul knockoff to halve this size before using the splitter. The four way wedge can be used for limb wood up to say 10 inches without any problem. I have a small stove, which I burn hot, and split my wood to sixteen inches and 2" to 4" wide splits.

One advantage of this machine is that the valve is in the center and you can work from either side. I notice that my workflow is one way when I am splitting rounds and stacking. But it is the other way, when I am taking splits and making kindling ( which i do a lot of, especially for my neighbors, whom are elderly and I don't like to see them using a hatchet. This machine works very well for this.

I always enjoy this conversation and the good information this forum offers,

Dave Howell

Sapper12 said:

Everyone,
Thanks for the feedback. I rarely do pieces over 24" DIA, and my stove only accepts pieces 22" in length. I try to cut pieces 16" -18" in length anyways. I think that now I am going to purchase the 16 Ton electric and have it wired for 220V. I will probably run a dedicated outlet to where I will be splitting. I am going to give myself another day or two to think about it, and then I am going to order the machine tomorrow.

Thanks, Jon

Click to expand...

Joh

What did you decide on doing

Thanks John

Bumping this to the top. What did you find with the new electric ramsplitter? Is it working well? I'm considering the purchase of one, as my gas powered unit blew hte back off of the box beam today. Not really repairable unless I want to spend a bit of money on an OLD splitter.

Well mine still runs great, 2-3 working yrs now. I split on average 6 cords a year Lots of elm some maple. I scrounge my wood thats why I get so much elm, as no one wants it. It will split a 20+" elm round no problem! Just work it around the edges roll as you split. The switch is the only thing that I have fixed, I put in a heavy duty toggle switch. I'm Happy with it. The only thing I need to do is have a table welded up to fit the end so I don't have to pick up the splits. Jay OOH yea I hate ELM

Do you have a horizontal/vertical model? Sounds like it's horizontal only.

Also, since you're so kind to respond, I read this thread and see conflicting comments about what size wood it can split. Would it be able to split some of the occasional knarly crotch pieces of elm? If you're splitting elm, I expect that you occassionally get some of those?

If their big 20"crotch pieces I halve them with my saw first. Any smaller one's if ya start on the {straight end and split to the crotch} you can go through them quite easy. You kind of learn how to read them if you know what I mean. Jay

yes, I understand reading the grain. Great info. Thanks for your input. I'm heading out to the Ramsplitter office this week or next. They are fairly close to me (about 1-1/2 hours) and seem pretty friendly. The woman I spoke with today told me that they sometimes have splitters around that don't fit the exact specs of what was ordered (I got the impression that they build as they're ordered- a small operation- which is good IMHO)

Perhaps best of all, MADE IN AMERICA. Has a nice ring to it...

New to the forum (posted about this splitter yesterday in a different section of the forum--not seeing this area--my bad!)

I have an older gas (have no idea exactly how many ton--hubby had it built) horizontal unit, that I can't move,
service or start by myself.

Lost hubby 2 yr ago--last year had enough wood so didn't need to worry about this. this year is another story.

I've a bad shoulder/back that prevents me from using anything requiring a 'pull' start, so I've been replacing everything
around here with one, that I can afford to do.

(I bought a stile chain saw with an 'easy start' feature that I still have one heck of a time starting....ONCE started, I can handle it great)

I've a massive amount of black locust to split....some are rather large rounds. the rest on-hand that's down & seasoned is
knarley oak & fir (some big rounds) with some ponderosa pine thrown in whenever a tree needs to come down on my
5 acres.

So far this year, I've been going down to the fruit orchards buying yearly trim for 60 bucks a load....but need to get what I have
split & stacked so it's getting used before it rots. (the locust & oak has been piled, waiting to be split for 2 yr now)

I like the fact I can just plug it in and go--without the mess of gas.

This one also seems small enough that I can move it without someone's help.

I'm reading there's some difference of opinion between 110-vs-220....I've outlets without any other pull on them which I would be using (110) but could access my dryer's plug without too much hassle, if need be.

Also--I'm a bit confused as to which extension cord to use.....12 or 10??

Depending on the severity of the winter, amount of insulating snow on the ground, what type of wood I'm burning, etc...I can burn between 2-4+ chords of woods a season, so I'm hoping this splitter can handle 4 chords a year without problems.

(I have a nice soapstone woodstove--best investment we made, I think)

Can anyone with one of these give me some advice on how well it will handle the type of wood I have on-hand?

I will be buying which ever splitter I end up choosing, in a week or two.

I'd love to be able to get one under a grand if possible, but it's not looking like that will be possible.

Oh--if it makes a difference--I'm in eastern Washington state (out the east end of the Columbia gorge).
thanks--

In line...

goody1006 said:

New to the forum (posted about this splitter yesterday in a different section of the forum--not seeing this area--my bad!)

I have an older gas (have no idea exactly how many ton--hubby had it built) horizontal unit, that I can't move,
service or start by myself.

Lost hubby 2 yr ago--last year had enough wood so didn't need to worry about this. this year is another story.

I've a bad shoulder/back that prevents me from using anything requiring a 'pull' start, so I've been replacing everything
around here with one, that I can afford to do.

(I bought a stile chain saw with an 'easy start' feature that I still have one heck of a time starting....ONCE started, I can handle it great)

I've a massive amount of black locust to split....some are rather large rounds. the rest on-hand that's down & seasoned is
knarley oak & fir (some big rounds) with some ponderosa pine thrown in whenever a tree needs to come down on my
5 acres.

So far this year, I've been going down to the fruit orchards buying yearly trim for 60 bucks a load....but need to get what I have
split & stacked so it's getting used before it rots. (the locust & oak has been piled, waiting to be split for 2 yr now)

I like the fact I can just plug it in and go--without the mess of gas.

This one also seems small enough that I can move it without someone's help.

I'm reading there's some difference of opinion between 110-vs-220....I've outlets without any other pull on them which I would be using (110) but could access my dryer's plug without too much hassle, if need be.

Also--I'm a bit confused as to which extension cord to use.....12 or 10??

The would matter in how far your are from your outlet. The lower the number (12 vs 10 ga.) the heavier the wire, the less resistance it will have, the further you can go from your outlet and the cooler the the cord will be and the splitter will run better. I would not go less than the 12 gauge extension cord, it's rated for 20 amps, and has less resistance then a 14 or 16 gauge, witch might heat up, causing more resistance, causing the splitter to work harder, to draw more amperes (amps) and possible trip the breaker/blow the fuse.

In a nutshell, I would use a 12 gauge extension cord


Depending on the severity of the winter, amount of insulating snow on the ground, what type of wood I'm burning, etc...I can burn between 2-4+ chords of woods a season, so I'm hoping this splitter can handle 4 chords a year without problems.

(I have a nice soapstone woodstove--best investment we made, I think)

Can anyone with one of these give me some advice on how well it will handle the type of wood I have on-hand?

I will be buying which ever splitter I end up choosing, in a week or two.

I'd love to be able to get one under a grand if possible, but it's not looking like that will be possible.

Oh--if it makes a difference--I'm in eastern Washington state (out the east end of the Columbia gorge).
thanks--

Click to expand...

I wish I could say I own one, I do not. But I have closely followed every thread about them here (as well as done other research) as I plan to buy one at some point. Most folks say they are glad they got the 220 version, or originally bought the 110 model but were able to convert it. You'll get the gasoline purists who look down their nose at an electric splitter, but none of the people who actually own the electric ones complain. I have a smaller electric (4 ton Ryobi) and love it. The 16 ton should do you fine, maybe get the horizontal/vertical model given your issues with your shoulder. If you ever find a log it can't handle, roll that one into the woods. It will be rare. Get a 10 ga. extension cord, even if you have to buy SJ outdoor cord from Lowes and hook up your own ends.

goody1006 said:

(much trimmed) New to the forum (posted about this splitter yesterday in a different section of the forum--not seeing this area--my bad!)

Click to expand...

Welcome to the forum, hope we can help you out...

I have an older gas (have no idea exactly how many ton--hubby had it built) horizontal unit, that I can't move,
service or start by myself.

I've a bad shoulder/back that prevents me from using anything requiring a 'pull' start, so I've been replacing everything
around here with one, that I can afford to do.

Click to expand...

One option that would help with the starting is to consider getting an electric starter - many OPE engines can be retrofit with one, or can be replaced with an engine that does have a starter. (Some starters will run on 110AC, others will take a 12 volt motorcycle or car type battery) However a Horizontal only splitter might not be your best option as it requires that you pick up rounds to get them up to the splitter. I find it easier to use a vertical splitter, others seem to like using vertical to bust up the big rounds and then going horizontal to finish up the chunks and smaller rounds. A lot may depend on just how your back and shoulder deals with the different sets of motions and lifting involved...

For moving the thing around, do you have a lawn tractor or ATV, etc? If so can you get an appropriate hitch put on it?

I like the fact I can just plug it in and go--without the mess of gas.

This one also seems small enough that I can move it without someone's help.

Click to expand...

While the Ramsplitter is likely smaller and lighter than what you have, judging by your description, I would not consider any splitter in that size class likely to be "small and easy to move". In order to deal with the forces involved, you flat have to use a certain amount of steel, there is no way around it... However it will probably be easier at least. I would still look at getting some sort of "yard mule" and putting a hitch on it rather than shoving the thing around by hand...

In terms of the gas / electric tradeoff, it's a mixed bag - electric is easier in terms of plug in and go, but it hurts in that you are limited to only being able to work in places where you can plug it in.... Gas can be used anywhere you need it to be...

I'm reading there's some difference of opinion between 110-vs-220....I've outlets without any other pull on them which I would be using (110) but could access my dryer's plug without too much hassle, if need be.

Also--I'm a bit confused as to which extension cord to use.....12 or 10??

Click to expand...

OK, let me try to put it in non-technical terms... starting with definitions, in many ways electricity acts like water pressure, and it can be easier to think of wiring as being like plumbing... Voltage is the electrical "pressure"
Current is the amount of electrons going past a given point in the wire. Power is the ability of electricity to perform work, and is equal to the Voltage times the Current. Wire gage is the size of your electric "pipe"

When you run electricity through a wire, it looses a certain amount of power as it goes. How much is a function of the size of the wire, the distance traveled, and the amount of current being used... The Ramsplitter, or any other electric splitter is going to draw a LOT of power, so it will cause a sizable power drop. Using a 10 gage extension cord will reduce the amount of drop, because it's a bigger cord (Electric cord numbers run backwards - the lower the number, the bigger the wire)

110v vs 220v is a question of the amount of electrical "pressure" being applied across the wire, and because electrical power (ability to perform work) is a function of both the voltage and the current, increasing the voltage lowers the current needed to get the same amount of work done. Thus the BEST approach is to use a 10g power cord, and wire everything for 220v - this minimizes the power lost in the cord, and will give you the most power at the splitter. It is also very important to keep the length of the power cord as short as possible... Note that you might or might not be able to run safely off your drier outlet - check w/ an electrician, I don't want to go into wiring details here...

[/quote]Depending on the severity of the winter, amount of insulating snow on the ground, what type of wood I'm burning, etc...I can burn between 2-4+ chords of woods a season, so I'm hoping this splitter can handle 4 chords a year without problems.

You might have to play with the wood a bit more, in terms of nibbling away at the edges, or planning how to work the splits, but I would expect the Ramsplitter to have no trouble w/ handling that kind of quantity, or kinds of wood.

Gooserider

If you have Central air conditioning you will have a 220v power source right there. that you can tap into. Just don't run both at the same time, Jay