do i need a new saw, or new chain?
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pdboilermaker
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Then the experts here are cutting wood much slower than my buddies and I. To test the chains, we did the following experiment.
1. Buddy and I both have Sthil ms310's w/20" bar
2. I put on a new skip chisel / he put on a new chisel
3. We had a nice long pine tree that was about a 16" diameter all the way down its 12' run
4. We gunned the saws at the same time holding them above the wood for a few seconds until we were given the go
5. We both plunged our saws into the wood at the same time letting only the weight of the saw do the work
6. After 8 of 8 trials we saw the same results, the skip chisel was through the log while the chisel was 1/2 way
1. Buddy and I both have Sthil ms310's w/20" bar
2. I put on a new skip chisel / he put on a new chisel
3. We had a nice long pine tree that was about a 16" diameter all the way down its 12' run
4. We gunned the saws at the same time holding them above the wood for a few seconds until we were given the go
5. We both plunged our saws into the wood at the same time letting only the weight of the saw do the work
6. After 8 of 8 trials we saw the same results, the skip chisel was through the log while the chisel was 1/2 way
WoodMann
Minister of Fire
Missed this one until now. Yes- it's all in the chain! I used to get so pee'd off when the off the shelf chain from Sears went to nothing all to soon. As has been recommended, the Oregon91 VX 062G, I swear by it myself.....................
smokinj
Minister of Fire
pdboilermaker said:
your right to a point and the point is your saw runs faster on a 20 in skip tooth! Now take my 460 full vs skip and the full will win ever time on a 20 in. bar. Now use the 28 in and the skip wins! It all comes down to what the whole set up is.(full chiesl is always faster if the horse power is there for the bar your using)
Bigg_Redd
Minister of Fire
smokinj said:
With an 18" bar on my 290 the only difference I notice is that I'm filing half the teeth.
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
I don't think it matters much re: skip vs. non-skip. I bought a skip to replace the OEM stihl chain which is not skip and no speed change was apparent. Yes, it takes longer to sharpen the non-skip but that's no big deal. I plan to replace the worn chains with skip chain as they need replacing, if it was noght and day difference then I'd hang up my non-skip as an emergency backup.
FOr the purpose of this thread and the way underpowered saw, the professional skip chain is the ticket.
FOr the purpose of this thread and the way underpowered saw, the professional skip chain is the ticket.
I used the stock chain on my Husky 359 from Lowes until I went to my local tractor store (not Tractor Supply) and the guy behind the counter mentioned that guys were very happy with the Stihl chains. I bit and bought a 20" Stihl chain. I gotta tell ya', man, this chain outlasts the Husky chain 3 to 1 on my clean grapple load of hardwood. I gotta agree with the other guys on this. A crappy chain always equals a crappy saw.
LLigetfa
Minister of Fire
Sure beats having to file it every time you gas up the saw. I can buck six cords (full, not face) on one filing.Meauran said:
al little update here... just got done whacking up about a cord with bran new chain... i stayed away from the crappy chain sears had and went with a nice oregon chain. it had twice the teeth, and they were raised up past the rake much more dramtically... what a difference
big logs that took a minute or two to buzz thru before cut clean thru in about 15 seconds! the new chain makes it like a brand new saw took a little advice from another posting on the thread, and cut them on the ground, going 1/2 way thru, then rolling it over and making an upwards cut thru the previous slice, just letting the saw guide its way thru the path of least resistance. agin, awesome advice, everyone... thanks! btw... new saw would have cost at least couple hundred... new chain; 23.16
big logs that took a minute or two to buzz thru before cut clean thru in about 15 seconds! the new chain makes it like a brand new saw took a little advice from another posting on the thread, and cut them on the ground, going 1/2 way thru, then rolling it over and making an upwards cut thru the previous slice, just letting the saw guide its way thru the path of least resistance. agin, awesome advice, everyone... thanks! btw... new saw would have cost at least couple hundred... new chain; 23.16- Status
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