How to fix stripped threads

http://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546-10-Metric-Coarse-Thread/dp/B0002SRF80

You can try a helicoil. The old Volkwagen head bold used to strip out and were replaced with helicoils.

This is probably not what your looking for because you would still have to tap the hole for the heicoil. I think with a few pics you might get some better ideas
for your temporary repair.

What size bolts? Sometimes you get lucky and a metric bolt will be just sligtly larger - just run the metric tap down the hole, you won't get full strength threads but it'll hold

If you want removable, you're going to have to run a tap down the hole (even if you need to shorten the shank).

Otherwise, clean out the holes real well and JB Weld a stud in place and put a nut on the end.

Aaron

Get some laquer thinner and clean the area well. If you have compressed air, blow it out reaaly well too.

You would be better served by using a longer bolt with the head cut off to act as a stud.

Clean both surfaces with acetone, break cleaner, or whatever solvent is handy. When dry mix up a small amount of JB Weld coat the threads on the bolt. Also put a small amount on the end of the bolt to fill in and push back into threads.

Screw it down hand tight and let it set for 24 hrs. JB Weld will harden in a few minutes but takes overnight to actually cure to full hardness. The repair will be able to be machined later if you want a permanent repair.

Aaron

definite on the j b weld. i had a 71 sportster, the case was aluminum. i had a crack that was getting bigger and leaking oil. cleaned the case with brake clean sanded the area to ruffin it up brake clean again and put on a bead that looked like a weld. solved the problem and that was 22 years ago and it is still working.

i'm not sure about the polish but carb cleaner will leave a white residue. make sur you clean that off with clean rag or go get some brake clean

If you are getting a good hold out of the metric bolts, just take them out and put some Loctite on them and put them back in.

If it is really important to you yet you don't want to take it to a machine shop there is something better than JB Weld. It is called DEVCON, made by permatex and it is more expensive but easier to use since JB tends to run all over the place before it sets. I only use mine where the JB is going to drip away before it hardens or if I need something stronger and more durable. I fixed a leaking head on my Chevy v6 with it years back and it's still holding. It has ceramic in it and tends to stick right where you put it . Great stuff, the best I have ever seen by far when it comes to glues and epoxies. If it really valuable and needs to be strong you likely best find the local machine shop and see what he says.
They do make a sort of aluminum brazing rod called Magic Missle Rod. Similar types are sold by other names and you may even find it at a local welding supply though they seem to treat the rod as snake oil for whatever reason. I have used the cheep version made in China on some small projects and it works very well. All you have to do is get it hot enough to start leaving a trace behind as in soldering and just build it up until it is solid and ready to be redrilled. You can do all this with a propane torch unless the casting is so big that it sinks out the heat faster than you can heat it and you can get at the part without a major disassembly needed. Then you need to drill and tap it with a blind tap. Again that is something best left to the neighborhood el cheapo machine shop though it will be much stronger than any epoxy repair.

I get a hit/miss with JB Weld. I have used it to fix my snowboard, motorcycle parts, and on a thread (once).

I love the product but know it does have it's limitations.

It worked better on the snowboard crack than the thread by the way but the thread had a lot of shear forces on it.