Hi, As I read and search the forums for info Im starting to get a little discouraged. I have a Marco zero clearance fireplace in my house probably from the late 60s or early 70s I thimk. Ranch house on concrete slab chimney goes straight up and is enclosed with z-brick. I want to burn wood to help heat the house. I been looking for wood stove inserts for zero clearance fireplaces but what is disappointing is that my box is approx 30 inches at the front across opening and tapers down to 19 inches across the rear wall. does this mean I have to rule out an insert because of this angleing inward of the side walls. Ive been looking at the dimensions of inserts and they are all the same size front and back. Please help me because If an insert will not work then Im going to have a whole new bunch of questions for you guys! Thanks for all the help, Mike
Need help trying to find the right way to go....
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Understand that you have a very old ZC fireplace. During the 60-70's it was on the low end of the quality scale. To do this properly and safely you should remove the entire fireplace and air cooled chimney, reuse only the hole in the wall and the other hole in the roof. This is probably not what you wanted to hear, but it's what really has to be done.
Whatever is the right thing to do is best. I did not have a real good feeling about an insert in this fireplace any way. so should I put a new efficient fireplace in or a free standing stove? I think a freestanding stove would be less expensive wouldnt it? So can I take everything out but leave the portion of chimney in the attic above the firebox and just pass through with insulated pipe? or should i just pass through the wall and go up along the outside of the house? this is where I start to get a little lost.
thanks for the help.
thanks for the help.
Maybe pull the unit and chim. Close up the wall, run class "a" up through the chase, make a nice hearth, achive the look of a freestanding stove in front of a wall. Expect to spend about $2500 to 3500 on decent stuff as a DIY project. $4500 to5500 if you contract it.
REMEMBER: Good stuff ain't cheap-cheap stuff ain't good
REMEMBER: Good stuff ain't cheap-cheap stuff ain't good
O.k.... but what excactly is the chase.... is that the outer portion of what is in the attic? and can I utilize the existing outlet on top of the roof- and run the class a inside it or am I going to get into a roofing project also.... thanks for your help!
Dix
Minister of Fire
Either way, floor plan, square feet, and your goal as far as heating are going to help alot. It'll give you something to do until the guru's arrive ;-)
Welcome to the forums!!
Oh, and start gathering wood now, if you haven't already
Welcome to the forums!!
Oh, and start gathering wood now, if you haven't already
In my current house I removed the ZC fireplace, widened & raised the opening, and created a stove alcove. I removed the existing flue & replaced it with class A chimney through the existing chase. Works well for me.
stoveguy2esw
Minister of Fire
im with stephen , remove the ZC and go freestanding with a class a flue system , be advised the existing pipe you already have is likely not rated for an epa stove , you will want ul 103HT (stressing the "ht") 2100F rated pipe for your class a system. if you intend to "build" an alcove for the stove in the existing footprint ,shop stoves that give an "alcove listing , otherwise you want to ensure that you have the 512 cubic ft required by nfpa211. keep us posted on what you are doing.
'bert
Minister of Fire
Fxst, if you would like to maintain the look of your fireplace, check into BIS or the Lennox built in stoves. I think there is also a couple of other brands out there.
Todd
Minister of Fire
What's the depth of your fireplace? You still may be able to fit an insert in there if you have the depth or you could bring it out onto the hearth a few inches if you have the hearth clearance. You will also need to reline your current chimney and wrap it with insulation.
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