Problem with stove installer - advice needed

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I wouldn't feel too guilty here. Real Milwaukee Sawzalls are very tough and almost always repairable. It would take some real abuse to permanently break one. However, if these tools were already the subject of constant abuse or if they were cheaper imitations, then the breakage might be explainable as having started before this installation.
 
Well, the question I have is . . .

What were the terms of the contract? If you have something in writing, please post what is in writing. If not, please tell me what they said.

This is a contract issue (yes, I am a lawyer, but this is not legal advice).

The question is going to be what the contract said about unexpected issues, and, potentially, whether the situation encountered is really unexpected.

My first sniff is that these guys are SCAMMERs and they smelled sap when they smelled you.

You're already willing to give them 1/2 of their potentially scammy demand?

Please tell me that you haven't paid them yet.

If you have, have you paid for parts or for parts and labor?
 
Ivy said:
Well, the question I have is . . .

What were the terms of the contract? If you have something in writing, please post what is in writing. If not, please tell me what they said.

This is a contract issue (yes, I am a lawyer, but this is not legal advice).

The question is going to be what the contract said about unexpected issues, and, potentially, whether the situation encountered is really unexpected.

My first sniff is that these guys are SCAMMERs and they smelled sap when they smelled you.

You're already willing to give them 1/2 of their potentially scammy demand?

Please tell me that you haven't paid them yet.

If you have, have you paid for parts or for parts and labor?
Click to expand...

Well it seems like it is going to be resolved. The installer is eating the cost of having someone come cut out the damper with a torch, so I really can't complain. There is no actual contract, just a receipt. He had said the the installation would cost a certain amount. I asked what the installation involved, and he said cutting out the damper, dropping the liner hooking it up, etc. There was no mention of possible further costs. The dealer seems genuinely concerned about customer satisfaction, and does not strike me as a scammer at all.
 
Very good news. It's great to hear that there are still companies that care about customer service and keeping their reputation up.

pen
 
Glad to see it worked out. Sorry that my advice was given without having read your last post.

Guy's doing the right business thing - no reason you should have to pay for his sight-unseen quote mistake.


How does one break a sawz-all, by the way?

Seems a bit fishy . . . .
 
Yeah its pretty tough to break a sawzall in half... I have seen the whole body of one or two break but that was because my guys dropped them off a roof or something. We use them constantly all day long and the only thing that ever happens is they wear out and start smoking eventually. Wish I had time to tune them up every once and a while, for now we just have to drop another $200 on a new one every year or so.

Maybe when the sawzall would not cut through it, they thought it would make a good hammer?
 
Holy cow ...broke 2 sawzalls. I'm just guessing but they must not have a good position on the cut and the tool is bouncing instead of cutting.
 
This is an intresting thread for me since I am just about to start taking the damper out of my fireplace to install a solid stainless liner.
I am both a welder, and a tool and die maker, so I'm going to put in my 2 cents worth.
I would bet money that the piece of steel they are trying to cut out is in fact stainless steel. It's easy to find out, take a magnet and see if it's magnetic.
Most, but not all stainless is non magnetic (because of the High Nickel content)
that would explain why it won't eaisly grind out. stainless is very difficult to grind with any kind of abrasive wheel. It will just turn red, and gum up the wheel.
Which brings me to my next point... A traditional cutting torch will be just an ineffective. they only work on ferrous carbon steels.
A plazma cutter on the other hand will have it out in no time.
I'm interested in seeing how the situation resolves itself.
Levi
 
Personally, I would have got rid of the crew to begin with. I'm not paying for tools you should already have. Just convert the liner to oval to get pass the damper.

No torches, No broken saws, No melted blades.... Just a round to oval adapter...
 
having done many installs on this type of FP I must chime in.
1) It's a Heatilator fire box. The hint is the 4 grates. Masonry structure, steel preformed firebox-damper-throat-carry it in set it down and keep laying bricks.
2) It's pure plate steel not stainless, some are 5/16 thick
3) It's a groan, but it can be cut with approx 8-10 blades
4) You can't get a liner through the damper opening, it's at an angle that only has about 3.5 inches space front to back, the damper is also more foreward in this firebox than a traditional masonry FP
5) The damper needs to be removed and about 5 inches of the fireback cut out in a 1/2 circle
6) Sounds like the dealer didn't ask enough questions at the time of sale. Yes we have been caught off guard in these situations. But all my trucks are equipped to handle it and get the job done. Your type of FP is like a flat tire, we all know what they are, but we don't get one very often, when we do we handle it
 
humpin iron said:
having done many installs on this type of FP I must chime in.
1) It's a Heatilator fire box. The hint is the 4 grates. Masonry structure, steel preformed firebox-damper-throat-carry it in set it down and keep laying bricks.
2) It's pure plate steel not stainless, some are 5/16 thick
3) It's a groan, but it can be cut with approx 8-10 blades
4) You can't get a liner through the damper opening, it's at an angle that only has about 3.5 inches space front to back, the damper is also more foreward in this firebox than a traditional masonry FP
5) The damper needs to be removed and about 5 inches of the fireback cut out in a 1/2 circle
6) Sounds like the dealer didn't ask enough questions at the time of sale. Yes we have been caught off guard in these situations. But all my trucks are equipped to handle it and get the job done. Your type of FP is like a flat tire, we all know what they are, but we don't get one very often, when we do we handle it
Click to expand...

Well said, I have the same old fireplace and cut through the damper throat & back to allow liner to come almost straight onto the insert outlet. Did it with 4" angle grinder & sawzaw. Not easy, but not that much a beech. Would qualify for the Dirty Jobs show.
 
Defibatley qualifies for the dirty jobs show. The guys who did my install were good. I felt bad for the guy cuttung the damper. He was filthy when he was done.

It was his first install :lol:
 
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