Had Chimney inspected for new wood stove. 2 more feet of Chimney needed, what is a reasonable price

jcolgan · Sep 23, 2009

I had my chimney inspected prior to the installation of the cumberland gap wood stove. The guys that did the inspection said the chimney lining looks fine, but the top of the chimney is lower than the peak of the roof line by a foot or two which they say is killing the updraft (a new addition was added onto the house by the previous owner with a higher roof than the rest of the house). They held a lighter up to the hole in the chimney where the wood stove piping would go and said that the lighter should be blowing out or the flame at least flickering heavily, but the flame was fairly still. They stated that I would need 2 more feet on the chimney.

I asked them what happens if I dont add the 2 ft, they stated I can still burn the wood stove, but its going to be dirty as hell. Ive about stretched to my limit just buying the stove, but Im going to get some quotes for the chimney work. What price range would be reasonable? Before you ask, no I wont do the work myself. I dont like being on our roof as its very steep due to the vaulted ceiling and Ive never done masonry work before.

daryl · Sep 23, 2009

I would have too know the roof pitch and how far away from the peak the chimney is to tell you the proper height your chimney has to be.

jcolgan · Sep 23, 2009

Unfortunately, I have no idea

begreen · Sep 23, 2009

I'd trust the stove guys. You don't want to wait til mid-winter with a roof full of snow and ice to hear an I told you so. The whole installation gets the energy credit so do it now.

Corey · Sep 23, 2009

True - I would have to defer the ultimate say to someone who is actually on site with a good visual inspection of the layout, knowledge of prevailing winds and weather, etc. Though I can't imagine 2 feet making much of a difference one way or the other in the actual draft. If it is marginal right now, two feet will only be slightly less marginal. If it is good right now, 2 feet = slightly better, but it won't make miracles. Though the two feet could mean the difference between meeting code or not meeting. Or if the flue opening happens to be right in the 'slip stream' of an adjacent roof when the wind blows - going higher could get it out of this zone.

Also, just having a chimney doesn't automatically mean there is draft. If it was roughly equal temperature inside and outside when they held the lighter up, of course there is no draft and no flickering flame.

MountainStoveGuy · Sep 23, 2009

two feet can make a huge difference.

jcolgan · Sep 23, 2009

BeGreen said:
I'd trust the stove guys. You don't want to wait til mid-winter with a roof full of snow and ice to hear an I told you so. The whole installation gets the energy credit so do it now.

The chimney work is applicable towards the energy credit?? I thought it was just the stove itself.

Yagminas Masonry and Wood-heat · Sep 23, 2009

If it's really difficult to access then expect a heavy price. Set-up will be a good part of the cost. Your job sounds like at least $1500 but it can be a lot more. Sometimes to save a little cost, I install a liner, transition plate and a length or two of pre-fab.

Todd · Sep 23, 2009

jcolgan said:
BeGreen said:

I'd trust the stove guys. You don't want to wait til mid-winter with a roof full of snow and ice to hear an I told you so. The whole installation gets the energy credit so do it now.

Click to expand...

The chimney work is applicable towards the energy credit?? I thought it was just the stove itself.

Yes, the whole install is included.

zzr7ky · Sep 23, 2009

I used a Class 'A' adapter to the top of the plate the liner attahed to. I then added a 3' section of class A Chimney and I'm all set. It is easy to walk up and unscrew the section for easy access to clean from the top also. This cost me about $100 since I could get up there easily and do it myself.

The diference in price shoul reflect whatever ladder, lift, & time needed plus the expence of the Class A Chimney and adapter. This doesn't need to be more difficult than the work to get up there.

(Edited to say I see Yagmina beat me to it; )
ATB,

Mike P

jcolgan · Sep 23, 2009

I got the quote back, they said it would be $450.00. Thats not too bad, it brings the total cost of the stove to 3200, but I went through almost 900 gallons of propane last year. Im sure I'll see at least some savings this year on the propane....I better anyway!

spirilis · Sep 23, 2009

Would a chimney pot help? For that matter, how well do those help anyway? (wondering if it'd be worth it for mine, since my chimney is a bit oversized and could use some draft assistance... haven't checked to see if its height meets code though)

begreen · Sep 23, 2009

jcolgan said:
I got the quote back, they said it would be $450.00. Thats not too bad, it brings the total cost of the stove to 3200, but I went through almost 900 gallons of propane last year. Im sure I'll see at least some savings this year on the propane....I better anyway!

What exactly was the $450 quote for? A 2 ft piece of class A added? Or for the whole flue? Have they already done the installation or is this pending?

jcolgan · Sep 23, 2009

BeGreen said:
jcolgan said:

I got the quote back, they said it would be $450.00. Thats not too bad, it brings the total cost of the stove to 3200, but I went through almost 900 gallons of propane last year. Im sure I'll see at least some savings this year on the propane....I better anyway!

Click to expand...

What exactly was the $450 quote for? A 2 ft piece of class A added? Or for the whole flue? Have they already done the installation or is this pending?

The guys here inspecting the chimeny said it would be for chimney block. It would cost more for brick matching the existing chimney, but I said I dont care if it matches and they said then they would use standard chimney block. The owner quoting me didnt say anything different, but didnt mention materials either. They have not done any of the installation, I have just put a 20% deposit down on the stove and paid 150 for the inspection and cleaning.

As far as the chimney height responding to another post, Im sure the chimney was at one time the correct height, but the previous owners added an addition onto the house with vaulted cielings and before, while the Chimney was an exterior chimney, it is now built inbetween the old house and the new addition. the new addition's roove is higher than the old roof. I dont believe the previous owners used a wood stove after the addition was put in, as they added central heating and a propane fireplace.

jcolgan · Sep 23, 2009

Ghettontheball said:
10-2-3 rule applies for all installs. surprised they didnt mention it so im skeptical

What is the 10-2-3 rule?

MountainStoveGuy · Sep 23, 2009

http://www.fireplacesnow.com/smchinfo.asp

^ 10/2/3 rule

jcolgan · Sep 24, 2009

MountainStoveGuy said:
http://www.fireplacesnow.com/smchinfo.asp

^ 10/2/3 rule

The chimney must extend at least 2 feet above any portion of any structure within 10 feet (measured horizontally) AND must extend at least 3 feet above the highest point of its roof penetration.

Ok, so according to the website: The chimney must extend at least 2 feet above any portion of any structure within 10 feet (measured horizontally) AND must extend at least 3 feet above the highest point of its roof penetration.

It doesnt meet the 2 rule. I believe it meets the 3 rule for the section of roof it is in, but right in front of it is the next section of roof which is a bit higher than the first section where the chimney is built. So it definitely doesnt meet the 10 rule either. It sounds like the chimney was fine, until they put on the new addtion with the higher roof and sandwiched the chimney between the new and old sections of the house. Make sense?

jcolgan · Oct 6, 2009

Well I got the chimney work and stove install done today. They knocked off the existing chimney top added about 2.5+ feet for Chimney block set the mortar for a total of 2 additional feet and put a new top on for $450.00, which was pretty good pricing for around here after I checked into it and it looks really nice. The stove looks great, but I have to wait until tomorrow morning to use it to let the mortar finish setting.

stoveguy2esw · Oct 6, 2009

did you repeat the "lighter trick" the stove guy showed you??? you wouldnt have to wait for it to dry to tell, of course if they have plumbed the stove in you cant at the thimble , but if you crack the door to the stove just a tiny bit and try there you should see an inward movement on the flame toward teh gap in the door , only open about a half inch though or it wont give you a true idea if you are drawing.

pen · Oct 6, 2009

450 for 2 feet of block that doesn't need to match brick seems high to me.

I'd call another mason. My guess would be 1/2 of that. Of course, perhaps you have a much higher cost of living in your area also. But regardless, I doubt it's double!

pen

jcolgan · Oct 7, 2009

stoveguy2esw said:
did you repeat the "lighter trick" the stove guy showed you??? you wouldnt have to wait for it to dry to tell, of course if they have plumbed the stove in you cant at the thimble , but if you crack the door to the stove just a tiny bit and try there you should see an inward movement on the flame toward teh gap in the door , only open about a half inch though or it wont give you a true idea if you are drawing.

We repeated the lighter trick after the extra block was put on and it was a night and day difference.

Had Chimney inspected for new wood stove. 2 more feet of Chimney needed, what is a reasonable price

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