Lopi Fire Dragon installed in shop.

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Lumber-Jack

Minister of Fire
Dec 29, 2008
2,007
Beautiful British Columbia
I had been planning to installing a wood stove in my garage/workshop since last year, but kept putting it off, and knowing me, probably would have kept putting it off until I one day found myself freezing my backside off on some project out there, so when my neighbor offered to sell me his wood stove and some Excel insulated "Factory Built" chimney pipe I decided this was the initiative I needed to get busy with this project. I bought the works for $100. I priced the Excel Chimney pieces at the Home Hardware stove and if bought new would be worth $944, so I figured on that alone it was probably worth it although I didn't need all the chimney pieces. The chimney is in great shape, still shiny inside.
The stove is in good shape as well, though it is not a EPA approved stove, it's an old Lopi insert. Not really what I wanted, but it will do for now until something better comes along.

I am planning to use it as a freestanding stove near the middle of my shop. I am building a raised hearth platform out of blocks and will be forming a cement slab on the top for the stove to sit on. I was told WETT requires a minimum 18" raised base for the stove to sit on in a shop or garage. The install location has plenty of clearance all around with just over 4 feet at the minimum side and rear.

What I would like to know is if there is someone out there who knows anything about this stove and wouldn't mind sharing their knowledge. Any info would be helpful, like what sort of quality is this stove? do they work Ok? (I know it's not efficient as an EPA stove), any issues at all?
How about the idea of using an insert as a free standing like that? any issues with that?

Thanks in advance.


Here's some pics
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Well I don't know much about that insert, but by looking at it I can tell there is a whole lota steel in that sucker. Looks like its built like a tank. I couldn't see any reason why it will not work just fine. I am pretty sure you will not be storing anything with flammable vapours in the work space and you have already payed attention to the 18" raised install. One thing for sure is that you will under no circumstances require a block off plate. ;-P I think you got a great deal $. Good luck with your install.
N of 60
 
Thanks for the encouragement N of 60, she’s a heavy sucker that’s for sure.

I still would like to hear from someone who has a used this Lopi insert or a similar one, I am curious if it would be worth installing a damper, or do these stoves work fine without them?
 
I had a old Fisher insert that was installed in our fireplace. It was a slammer installation in that the smoke gasses just dumped out into the old fireplace. It was a super creosote generator. I removed it and installed a stainless liner to the roof in the old flue. Then a flue coller was welded onto the top of the stove. With the insert connected to the stainless liner, there was no reason to put the big ugly black surround back in. We then installed rockwool insulation in the old smoke box and held it all in with a nice new lower block off plate. We turned a dangerous insert into a safe freestanding stove. The stove is now much more efficiant, is much easier to burn and is a joy to be around. With the factory blower it's all the heat we'll ever need especally now that all our heat isn't going up the chiminy. Go for it, I'm positive you'll enjoy your new friend.
 
Thanks for the reply Captain, I can see how these stoves would produce a lot of creosote if they were installed the way they were intended to be, "without a direct flue connector pipe" so the smoke just billows out the top hole and into the fireplace and up the chimney (hopefully). The label even warns that you should remove the insert and clean behind it frequently because heavy creosote may (will) occur.

I got the hearth base formed up now, just gota pick up some steel rebar to reinforce it and I'll mix up some cement. Once that is done I'll just need 6 strong men to help me lift the stove up on the hearth and I can hook up the double walled flue pipe and I'll be ready to fire her up. :cheese:

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C_L, you can always add a damper after the fact as you will be able to access it. I am not sure you will get responses about using a damper on this stove as being normally installed as an insert you would have no access to get to the manual chimney damper therefore probably not many installed. Keep us posted and provide Pics of the 1st fire and finished product. With or without the damper will be accepted. :cheese:
N of 60
 
Carbon_Liberator said:
Thanks for the encouragement N of 60, she’s a heavy sucker that’s for sure.

I still would like to hear from someone who has a used this Lopi insert or a similar one, I am curious if it would be worth installing a damper, or do these stoves work fine without them?


I don't know anything about THAT stove but I've never seen an old stove that did not benefit from having one.
 
I haven't seen any inserts from that era that didn't have a flue damper built in. That looks like the control rod for it laying in the firebox.
 
Well, I got the base poured after I came home from work last night, and when I came in I saw a few more responses to this thread which I'll try and reply too.
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The stove doesn't have a built in damper, but the previous owner had a homemade one installed in one of the insulated pipe pieces which he had going right from the stove to the top on the chimney. He had no single wall or double wall pipe in the house, probably no ceiling collar or proper flashing and no chimney cap,,, in fact he informed me that a chimney cap was a bad Idea because it would likely just blow off the wind, he pointed to another neighbor's chimney as proof because it was missing the top of the cap also.
Not surprisingly his house insurance company told him he had to remove his wood stove from his mobile home or they would not cover him.

Below is a picture of the homemade damper how it use to sit on the stove, not the best picture, but there it is. If I do install a damper it won't be in that insulated pipe.

The rod you see inside the stove is just a wood poker/raker and the control handles on the front of the stove control the intake vents. One on the top right and to in the middle on the bottom. Also a couple pictures with the vents closed and open.

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Nice work, looking forward to pics of your first burn
 
Nice job, you even have a little wood storage area underneath, smart man.
 
You ought to just go ahead and cut the shroud off of that bad boy.
 
Well I couldn't wait for the strong men, I set up the stove for as easy a lift as possible with dolly and 2x4s and gave my wife and kids as complete an instruction as possible, did a trial lift and set back down to see if it would be possible (it was), got them to stretch their backs and flex their muscles, then pump up like Arnold Schwarzenegger and went for it! ....
(No problem :)

Took a few minutes to hook up the flue pipe, last minute shifting and leveling and I already had some kindling ready to go. Fire started up fast and the spruce spits burned hot, it had a good feeling, like an old truck starting with the first turn of the key after sitting for several years. It immediately had a steady draft even though it was very windy and gusty outside. As soon as the metal got hot the stove surface started to smoke from the fresh paint ,I had just put on, started to cure. The smoke was coming off the surface pretty good, so I kept the garage doors and window open for the worst of it, but had to shut the garage doors because the wind outside was so bad at the time it was blowing all kinds of leaves, and dust, and debris all over into the garage.
I let that first little fire burn hot and die right away, tried another one just before supper, put some bigger splits in and burn them up till it they were coaling and turned down the intake. Went out and checked it just moments ago. It is a short walk out my back door to the garage/shop is and it was cool and still a bit windy outside, I was just in my T shirt and could feel it. As soon as I walked into the garage door I was hit by a blast of heat, the dry spruce I put in there was all burned up, but there was plenty of residual heat left in the room. One thing is for sure this stove has no problem heating up the place.
I know the last couple replies mentioned cutting away the insert shielding off the stove for extra heat, and I thought about that too, but it would have been a big job (for me) and I'm sure now I'm not gona need any extra heat from this thing
Anyway, I'm tickled pink! I finally got wood heat in my shop, now all I need is a beer fridge and a cot and my wife to bring me out hot meals and I'm set. I made her happy too, because along with the motivation to complete this job I also found a good excuse to finally tile the hearth pad of the wood stove in the house which previously just sat as a cement slab, another project on the to do list I can also check off.

Pictures below
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and the inside tile job
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Well I've started 3 fires in this stove so far and tried various intake damper settings, with roaring fires and coals, and come to the conclusion it doesn't need a flue damper, as I seem to have plenty of control of the draft just by adjusting the bottom intake vents.
I do wonder what's the purpose of the upper intake vents? Possibly they are suppose to provide some sort of glass air wash, because opening and closing them doesn't seem to effect the fire much.
It's gona be interesting burning this stove and my modern Regency EPA stove side by side, see which one gives me longer burn times? and see if I really get that much more creosote build up in the old stoves chimney?
It seems like it really goes through the wood though, but I'm just burning some really dry, light spruce in it right now. I'm sure if I burned that in the house in my EPA stove it would burn up quick too, but I'm NOT gona try that until it cools down a bit more, heck! I don't need any extr heat in the house, our air conditioner is still kicking in during the day.
 
That stove is almost a carbon copy of my old Sierra T-4500 insert. The upper air control provides a crude air wash but also provides air for a burn under the baffle when the stove is rolling. Give it a try. With the stove top temp up around 550 to 600 open the upper air some and back down the primary air gradually to almost closed. You will probably see the rolling blue flame light show start up right under the baffle at the top of the firebox over the wood. Secondary combustion isn't new. I used to see it every night in the ole tank. A rolling blanket of blue that looks like a natural gas flame.
 
Hey BB, thanks for the response. I'll be trying that sometime and watching for any secondary burn flames, I was kind of wondering if that might be possible, but the small metal baffle in this thing is way at the back of the fire box. Did your Sierra have a baffle that extended further forward?
The other interesting thing about this stove is it has two layers of fire brick. It makes for a bit smaller firebox, but that's probably ok since it's a little over sized for my garage/shop anyway.

baffle.JPG
 
WOW! Deja Vu. I had an identical (except for the secondary air) LOPI "EX" Extended insert in the early 80's. Sold it along with the house in '86. I had added a Condar Stovetemp thermostat to it by replacing one of the door's glass windows with a steel panel. I had the panel cut to accommodate the thermostat, which normally would replace a stove's spin draft control. With its enormous firebox and the thermostat I was able to get long, consistent burns. There was a sliding damper on the stack outlet - that's what the rod is for. The only 3 differences I see from your photos are: It looks like some extra firebrick was added, unless LOPI made that change. The steel plate over the fire area was larger, coming out almost to the doors. My stove didn't have the secondary air inlet setup above the doors. I saved the manual and would be happy to scan it and email it to you. As I write this, I'm waiting for delivery of the door for my new Blaze King catalytic insert. I'll be retiring a Fisher Grandma Bear which we've used as an insert in our masonry fireplace. Had to cut off the legs to get it to fit into the fireplace, so in its next life it will have to remain an insert. Good luck with that great stove! Please let me know if you want a copy of the manual.
 
Hey Stacker, thanks for the reply on this thread, I was sure it was dead :) .
By the way, welcome to the forum.
I would very much appreciate a scanned copy of that manual :) . I’ll send you a PM with my email address. Thanks
It had been suggested earlier in this thread that there might be a sliding damper on the stack outlet, but it either must be invisible or it has been removed, because I can’t find any signs of it.
The extra firebrick was added by the previous owner, and I wish mine had that extended steel plate (baffle) that you are talking about, I’m sure it would make this unit more efficient. That short baffle just allows all the flames to go right up the stack.
Sound like you did a nice modification to your old Lopi, mine could use something like that.
 
Carbon, I am heating one end of my house with that exact Lopi unit. I bought it last year off a guy that only used it 1x, I know he was not lying because I could smell the paint burning off the first couple of times I lit it. I heat the other end of the ranch with a larger Lopi 'LX'. Both of these units run great, once you get them up there ~500-600F on the top surface they burn amazingly hot and efficient. Use the bottom vents to get it up to temp, shut them down and use the top vents to get a secondary burn off the unit. You will want to keep that damper in place as the smoke shelf is a bit smaller on this unit. Dont really need all the flames roaring up the chimney. For a workshop it probably does not matter but if you pack it with 4-5 splits and choke the air down there is no problem getting an overnight burn. Curious to see what you think vs. your newer stove as I have kicked around upgrading one of the old Lopi's. Yes, I burn alot of wood feeding 2 burners, neighbors think I am crazy!

Anyone know where I can get a blower for one of these units?
 
ddemmith said:
Curious to see what you think vs. your newer stove
Thanks for the reply Ddemmith, I can tell you right now there is a big difference between the non EPA stoves and these old beasts. My new stove is a Regency F2400, my first EPA rated stove. Just by the way the flames burn inside the unit tells you there is something better about these stoves. I have only had a fire in the old Lopi a few times, but there is no way you can get the kind of rolling flames that completely fill the fire box, that you can in the modern stove. The fire and flames in the new stove looks like you are pumping natural gas in from the secondary air intake vents. In the old stoves you can get a nice roaring fire, yes, but it's just not the same, it's basically just a campfire in a steel box. However, it still throws out plenty of heat, and that's all I need.
You would definitely be pleased with replacing one of your old stoves with a modern one. Only problem is you'll probably want to replace the other one too. LOL
 
As a conclusion to this thread I have uploaded a video to YouTube of the stove in action.
I have been very happy with this stove and it has already kept me warm for many projects, and likely will keep me warm for many more.
:cheese:
 
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