need advice; installing 30-ft liner for fireview

As soon as the weather allows, I will be installing the liner for my Fireview. I've got a 30-ft run, and I have to wrap it with the .5 inch insulation and metal cladding. Then I have to get it up onto my roof and somehow negotiate it down into the chimney.

Any tips before I proceed? With all that wrapping, I can't imagine you'd want to bend it too much, but raising 30 feet of it strait up in the air might be a challenge too, especially if there's any wind.

I will also need to put an S-curve in the bottom 5 feet or so in order to have it come out of the damper in the centered location. That will have to be done after I get it down the chimney, but I won't be able to reach up there with my hands.

I could really use some guidance from someone with experience. The stuff bends, but with a considerable amount of effort.

Oh, one other thing: does the liner need to be cleaned before applying the spray adhesive for the insulation. Is the adhesive really necessary? The manual seems to indicate that it's optional.

bfunk13 said:

One thing that helped me out was i slid a piece of cardboard
up against the cutout damper. This allowed the liner to run directly through
the damper opening without getting caught up in the process.
I also made a wire "grab" at the end of the liner with a rope tied to it. The rope will make it through
before the liner, a few good tugs and it was through the opening.
I would imagine the S curve could be done after the liner is pulled through.

Brad

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Thanks for the input, bfunk. Are you saying you ran your liner in from the bottom up?

I'm coming down from the top, but I'm wondering how we're going to get 30 feet of it up into a straight vertical position above the chimney. I've seen images of guys uncoiling the liner as they feed it down, but I can't do that with the insulation and cladding already wrapped around it.

Olympia included a nose cone puller, but I don't know how I'm supposed to use it to pull an ovalized liner through an 5.5-inch damper opening.

We'll, so it sounds like you have to kind of bend and straighten as you—at leas for the first third to half, I'm guessing (after that, surely you can stand the rest up?).

But here's the remaining question: How much bending can you safely do with the insulation and cladding on it?

Well, I got it in yesterday, with my dad standing at the other end of the peak feeding, and my wife at the bottom tugging on the nose cone. Actually, I was shocked how easy it went down. Getting it wrapped with insulation and covered with the steel mesh was far more difficult. I think we had it fed down in about ten minutes time, maybe less. The biggest difficult was slowing it down enough to straighten it before it went too far in.

Probably helped that my flue was 9.5 by 12 inches.

I used a round nose cone on my ovalized end, and the band clamp went on with no trouble. All I had to do was stop it just above the damper frame and remove the cone. We actually had to fight to keep the thing from slipping down as we were rounding out the end and making all out adjustments.

Also for rounding out the end, we got it most of the way by me pulling out from the inside and my dad pushing in on the wide part, then we put a deep-throated bar clamp and put a little more hurt on it. After that it was mostly a matter of using a pair of pliers to bend in some ragged parts on the end so they wouldn't hang up on the opening of the tee.