Advice needed: Burning my Morso 1410 for 1 year now, thinking of going bigger...

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leakypuppy

leakypuppy

Member
Mar 3, 2008
103
Northern NJ
I installed my 1410 a year ago to heat a 250 Sq. ft. (poorly insulated, 2 exterior walls) converted garage (pics attached). I was very concerned of overheating the room when selecting the 1410 and figured since it was rated to 800 Sq. ft. that it would provide more than enough heat -- I also liked the 16" clearance and small footprint. I have a Jotul C550 that heats the main part of my house but none of that heat makes into this room. The 1410 throws just enough heat in the cold winter months to keep the chill out of the room. After 1 year of burning (constant loading) and faced with a 2nd season of smaller splits I'm contemplating going bigger, perhaps a Morso 2110. I'm looking for longer burns, more heat, a bigger firebox and think the 2110 might be just what I need. Plus the height and clearances are identical so it would be a easy swap. Is it too much stove for my room?

Thanks,

LP
 

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Boy, a 2110 (I used to own one) in a 250 sq ft room would be overkill, I'd think. Instead of replacing the stove, how about looking into reducing some of the heat loss? I see two large windows right next to the stove - can't be good. Are there more windows like this on other walls? Also, consider that the 2110 is a wider stove and radiates a lot of heat to the side. Clearances might be an issue.
 
Hi, I remember the pictures you posted when you put that adorable stove in. I was like wow, are those real slate shingles? I love your house - is it a Tudor? With those big windows and the brick floor on the cold ground, two exterior walls, the 2110 would definitely be better. You could run the stove at a low setting and get more heat with less reloads. Another stove to consider is the great Jotul F3 CB. I've had that stove for 5 years and love it. That throws a little more heat than the 2110 and most likely costs less than the 2110. The F3 takes 18 inch logs and is very close in dimensions of height and width, but not as deep at 13 inches. You could rear vent the F3 with a tee and meet clearances no problem. Is that single wall pipe? The F3 needs 17 inches to corner with single wall, but being more shallow than the 2110 won't be into the room as much. IMO, the classic styling would go better with the period styling of your house. There is a great Jotul dealer, the one I got mine from is Hearth and Home in Ledgewood. If you need more information on the F3, don't hesitate to ask me.
 
I see plumbers crack
 
Thanks Sue, the house is a 1930s Tudor and yes it has a slate roof. That poor installers crack, I can't even count the number of people who've seen that picture. I was measuring last night and the 2110 is too wide and I'd prefer not to relocate the stack. I'm also going to consider replacing the 2 original casements in the room which will help as well. I'm going to investigate the Jotul F3 CB and see how that will fit, I have the C550 insert in our living room and love it. We purchased ours at McNamara's in Pearl River and I'm very happy with them. Thanks for the heads up on Hearth and Home, I've heard of them.





tutu_sue said:
Hi, I remember the pictures you posted when you put that adorable stove in. I was like wow, are those real slate shingles? I love your house - is it a Tudor? With those big windows and the brick floor on the cold ground, two exterior walls, the 2110 would definitely be better. You could run the stove at a low setting and get more heat with less reloads. Another stove to consider is the great Jotul F3 CB. I've had that stove for 5 years and love it. That throws a little more heat than the 2110 and most likely costs less than the 2110. The F3 takes 18 inch logs and is very close in dimensions of height and width, but not as deep at 13 inches. You could rear vent the F3 with a tee and meet clearances no problem. Is that single wall pipe? The F3 needs 17 inches to corner with single wall, but being more shallow than the 2110 won't be into the room as much. IMO, the classic styling would go better with the period styling of your house. There is a great Jotul dealer, the one I got mine from is Hearth and Home in Ledgewood. If you need more information on the F3, don't hesitate to ask me.
Click to expand...
 
Keep in mind rear venting and a tee would move the stove forward 2 1/2 inches and give more room. Maybe could fit a bigger stove and not have to move the pipe. Additionally if you use Simpson pipe, they have a piece called a stove adapter section that would add yet another 4 inches. Well just some food for thought.
 
I like the way the Squirrel stove is nice and tight to the corner but I guess thats the advantage of the smaller stove, tighter clearances. I've been trying to find a way to get either the 2110 or the F3 CB in with the pipe connected on top but not sure that is going to work as I'm not getting close to 14" BTW I have double wall pipe. If I do a rear vent I'm looking at possibly moving the stove forward 6 1/2 inches which is a bit much. Gotta check what type of stove pipe I used.


tutu_sue said:
Keep in mind rear venting and a tee would move the stove forward 2 1/2 inches and give more room. Maybe could fit a bigger stove and not have to move the pipe. Additionally if you use Simpson pipe, they have a piece called a stove adapter section that would add yet another 4 inches. Well just some food for thought.
Click to expand...
 
If you could do a 1" standoff wall protector that would bring the F3 corner clearance down to 6" top or rear vent.
 
I've thought of that but how would I deal with the window near the corner, refer to the picture. Notch out and just cover the trim around the window? My wife will be against anything that takes away from Tudorishness ;-)


tutu_sue said:
If you could do a 1" standoff wall protector that would bring the F3 corner clearance down to 6" top or rear vent.
Click to expand...
 
Ah, yes I would feel the same about the trim. Is it possible to remove the pipe bend and go with the rear venting?
 
Sure I could loose the bend and then do a rear vent, had not crossed by mind. I don't know if the clearances would be ok, what I gain (clearance) from the bend would be lost..I"ll have to measure. Thanks!

tutu_sue said:
Ah, yes I would feel the same about the trim. Is it possible to remove the pipe bend and go with the rear venting?
Click to expand...
 
Okay I just measured mine up. From the outerwall of the pipe there is a gain of 2 1/2" from the tee. Then with the tee and adapter section there is just shy of 5 1/2" from the outer pipe wall to the edge of the stove. Sorry not exact but I had to rush downstairs - can't leave little ones alone for more than a minute.
 
Thanks for checking. So from the back side of the pipe that is closest to the wall it is 5 1/2 inches to the back of the stove or 5 1/2 + 2 1/2 = 8"


tutu_sue said:
Okay I just measured mine up. From the outerwall of the pipe there is a gain of 2 1/2" from the tee. Then with the tee and adapter section there is just shy of 5 1/2" from the outer pipe wall to the edge of the stove. Sorry not exact but I had to rush downstairs - can't leave little ones alone for more than a minute.
Click to expand...
 
Total overall length is 5 1/2 inches from the back edge of stove to the front outer wall of pipe. The pipe being the vertical part of the tee section.
 
I'm trying to get my head around the clearances...

I don't understand why the corner clearance for top vent is 14" but 17" for rear vent. Rear vent will move the stove farther away from the wall...Any idea?

Thanks!


tutu_sue said:
Total overall length is 5 1/2 inches from the back edge of stove to the front outer wall of pipe. The pipe being the vertical part of the tee section.
Click to expand...
 
The only thing I can figure is that rear vent directs more heat at back of stove and more clearance is needed to dissipate it faster.
 
You know - I should have gotten my F3 in blue-black enamel...live and learn!
 
Do you find the matte black gets dirty from ash?
 
Yeah, it get's like a slight grey look to it after the paint ages and from wiping it down the ash gets in there. The satin look of the enamel is much nicer and looks cleaner.
 
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