Hello, Everytime I clean the glass on my stove (lopi liberty) it gets dirty again fast within 4 to 5 hours and gradually worse as it burns longer to the point where it is a black layer over it by morning, I have airwash on my stove but it seems like that its not working. I am burning 1 to 2 year old seasoned wood, my chimney is about 22ft. tall so I dont think it is a draft issue but possibly? I am wondering if this is normal? and it seems to happen alot faster when I start to shut the air down on it, I never shut the air all the way down though.
Wood stove glass
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Do you have a stove top thermometer? Any idea how hot you are burning? Finally, how long after the wood is fully charred/engaged do you wait to shut down the primary air?
With my Endeavor, I have dark corners after an overnight burn, but I've never blackened the entire glass. I just get a dull, white film that I remove with glass cleaner when the stove is cool.
With my Endeavor, I have dark corners after an overnight burn, but I've never blackened the entire glass. I just get a dull, white film that I remove with glass cleaner when the stove is cool.
That's a problem I often have during the shoulder season, but later when I'm burning good hot fires it goes away. Air leaks around the glass will cause it also.
I usually keep the stove around 350-500, And usually I wait about 20 min to shut down the air, I can usally tell when it is going to keep the fire going and when it is not I just put a new seal around the door also.
Fsappo
Minister of Fire
Will it clean itself off with a nice hour long burn on high? Lopi makes a good stove, and it sounds like you would have decent draft. Airwash works about the same from stove to stove and the things that hinder it are usually green/wet wood, poor draft or very low operating temps
thewoodlands
Minister of Fire
thewoodlands
Minister of Fire
zapny said:
LOL. I had my Endeavor looking that way this morning. Per my "snug handle" thread, I adjusted my hinges to eliminate a tiny air gap in the upper left hand corner of the door. Now when I shut the bypass damper, holy hell! I get such a strong secondary that I begin to wonder if it will ever slow down! Of course it does settle down, but man what a powerful show!
thewoodlands
Minister of Fire
dollar bill test? And even when I do not burn oak, but wood that I know is very dry it still seems to do it, And also how long has does the secondary burn supposed to last mine only goes for about 5 minutes and then its over is it supposed to keep doing it through out the burning period?
thewoodlands
Minister of Fire
Steven said:
Check the fiberglass gasket around the doors and window glass. The gasket is designed to keep your
wood stove air tight. Use the dollar bill test. Open the door and place a dollar bill over the gasket and
close the door. If you can pull out the dollar bill then it is no longer air tight and needs to be replaced.
Worn out gaskets can allow carbon monoxide to leak into your home.
Zap
A hot fire should clear the glass. I would agree with checking the gasket and the moisture on the wood.
Steven,
I have the same setup with a 22 foot flue. I do get black glass often. Happens overnight usually when I load it up and choke down the air.
I don't use a thermometer so I can't tell which temp is good to wash the glass. A hot morning fire usually turns the black to gray.
Peace
I have the same setup with a 22 foot flue. I do get black glass often. Happens overnight usually when I load it up and choke down the air.
I don't use a thermometer so I can't tell which temp is good to wash the glass. A hot morning fire usually turns the black to gray.
Peace
thewoodlands
Minister of Fire
Steven said:
Steven I found this on the net, what does everyone else think about this.
Poor Draft and Difficulty Establishing a Fire
Strangely enough, if air is allowed to leak into the flue around the flue collar on the top of the stove, it will dilute the natural draft action of the chimney and prevent air from being drawn through the primary air control on the bottom of the stove. Think of it like sucking on a straw that has holes in it half way down. You won't get much suction at the bottom of the straw. A good wood stove works much the same way, the joints in connector pipe to the chimney through the stove damper and all the way down to the air intake openings need a good seal for control of the fire. Leaks at the top end equal poor draft and a weak smokey fire, leaks at the bottom equal high fire and lack of control. No leaks allows you to control the intensity of the flame and increase or decrease it to better suit your needs.
So if you've had the stove for awhile and only started to have problems getting the fire going strong, check for leaks around the flue collar and the vent connector. A little bead of Rutland stove cement wouldn't go amiss there too.
Check for blockages in the primary air supply opening and if your stove has a catalytic combustor, it may be time to have it checked by a service tech, if you aren't comfortable taking the back apart.
Zap
Steven said:
My Endeavor will maintain an active secondary burn until the wood enters the charcoaling stage. NOTE: I cannot shut down the primary air all the way and maintain a secondary burn. Some users can do this with their stove, but mine simply will not do so.
If you are only getting 5 minutes of active, secondary combustion I'd say you either: shut down the primary way too soon and/or have wet wood.
cool, thanks for all the help I just replaced the seal around the glass, and the seal on the door I replaced about a week ago I will see if this helps at all.
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