why is Simpson pipe so much $$$

Ventingpipe.com has a guy named Brian who's really good on tech stuff for pipe.

because its worth it ,aside form the obvious technology of the system itself their stuff is quality controlled for perfection and goes together so well
good things are seldom cheap... and cheap things are seldom good

Devinsdad, Welcome to the world of the Simpson CC-C chimney adapter. I suffered the same frustration as you and finally installed it the same way you did. I had a trusted Certified Stove Installer who has been installing Simpson DVL pipe for years describe the installation process to me. I did it just as he described. He also mentioned the wacky CC-C adapter and its sometimes flimsey connection between DVL pipe and the ceiling suport box. He said not to worry about that apparently flimseyness because once the DVL is installed up tight to the ceiling support box (as you did) and properly screwed in place (as you did), the connections will be very secure. After a few fires the creosote will most likely "glue" the DVL pipe, CC-C connector, and chimney together so you will have a devil of a time separating them.

You did everything just right, as I did, so now just sit back and enjoy a nice fire. Rest assured your installation is very SAFE and SECURE, just as Simpson intended.

Go out now and fire up your Husqvarna saw and Huskee splitter to gather some wood for our cold and snowy northern NY winter.

Best wishes,

John_M

Edit: The CC-C adapter can be either: 1) inserted and twisted into place or; 2) just be certain four the little tabs on the CC-C are MISALIGNED with the slots in the ceiling support box and push it up to snap it into place. The CC_C does not "screw" or "twist lock" into place. The little tabs just ride on a slight steel lip inside the ceiling support box. As you have already discovered, if you turn the DVL pipe or the CC-C connector enough, the tabs on the CC-C will eventually align with the slots in the ceiling support box and will just come apart before they are properly screwed together. The DVL pipe does not have the same slots as the ceiling support box so the CC-C just snaps into the DVL pipe. This connection to the DVL pipe is also very loose but secure. Hope this clarifies a little.

devinsdad said:

I understand they are busy but I was/am concerned that my DVL pipe is not right. I have a square cathedral ceiling support .This drops the required 2 " below ceiling . Then the round part is another 3 inches for a total of 5 " from finished ceiling. there is a metal piece (snap ring? chimney connector)with grooves that twists into the ceiling box. but when I get the pipe (40-60 telescoping close clearance) up to it and twist it on it just spins around in circles nothing locking in place. I did get it to catch somewhat enough to try to plumb down to stove collar but as soon as I got my level near it the pipe fell off the ceiling support. I did get it half ass hung back up there enough to pull the bottom section of pipe down onto appliance adapter. and put 3 screws into the bottom section of pipe into the adapter at the stove. Then I pushed the top section of pipe up tight to the bottom of the round extension of the ceiling support (it was hanging down maybe 1/4") I put the screws in to hold the telescoping pipe pieces together in the middle but am worried about the connection to the ceiling support not being right as it was loose fitting .

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I replaced my single wall with double wall black. I too was not impressed with the assembly/fit either. Had some leaking smoke problems last year,took it apart, mangled it up,sealed it up with hi-temp RTV. This year I applied some Shur-Tape/aluminum tape to the connection at ceiling support box. The telescoping pipe is a great item though.

Through the roof--double wall insulated stainless--I used 3 ea. stainless self tapping screws on each connection. I did not trust the connection on it's own with the winds in my area. Good luck.

Devins Dad- are you saying the simpson brand is less expensive than the selkirk?

I have priced them online and they look comparable, but I have used selkirk before and will probably stick with that.

I would highly recommend against using any screws in the simpson pipe cause that allows for heat transfer to go through the screw and you loose all you clearances that was tested by Simpson. Simpson does make optional locking bands if you dont trust the twist lock. I think that i have used them like twice ever, cause when you use the roof bracket it holds it right in place. You also get a lifetime warranty with their stuff, first 15 yrs is 100% all parts and after 15yrs 50% on all parts. As far as for looks, and ease of installation Simpson wins.

CSCPeter said:

I would highly recommend against using any screws in the simpson pipe cause that allows for heat transfer to go through the screw and you loose all you clearances that was tested by Simpson. Simpson does make optional locking bands if you dont trust the twist lock. I think that i have used them like twice ever, cause when you use the roof bracket it holds it right in place. You also get a lifetime warranty with their stuff, first 15 yrs is 100% all parts and after 15yrs 50% on all parts. As far as for looks, and ease of installation Simpson wins.

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i nevwer used screws in my ss chimeny from simpson either, it says in the instructions just to twist them together.. and thats what i did. been thining about adding a roff support strap.. but not sure as the instructions said if its over 5" above and mines not that.


Ray

Yes, they do recommend that you use the roof brackets every 5', but if there are any joints above I like to use them so that the chimney is secured at the bottom and top so you know the chimney is secured in two spots to hold onto.

CSCPeter said:

I would highly recommend against using any screws in the simpson pipe cause that allows for heat transfer to go through the screw and you loose all you clearances that was tested by Simpson. Simpson does make optional locking bands if you dont trust the twist lock. I think that i have used them like twice ever, cause when you use the roof bracket it holds it right in place. You also get a lifetime warranty with their stuff, first 15 yrs is 100% all parts and after 15yrs 50% on all parts. As far as for looks, and ease of installation Simpson wins.

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Through the roof sections=sections above the roof line, not attic/living space. Unless I've got a full on chimney fire I don't think I'll get too much heat transfer through 3 ea. #6 X 1/2" screws which do not penetrate the interior wall of the pipe- they penetrate the "locking lug" section of each section.

I installed a roof bracket also. While trying to remove the very top section to clean the rain cap the whole chimney twists - not very handy as the thru the roof connection moves also. Is it locked or not?? I find the "locking" part very vague feeling- like it's not locked. I installed my screws because I was taking apart the chimney and I didn't want to wait a couple of weeks for $15 each bands. This quick fix solved my problem- no more chimney twisting.

CSCPeter said:

Yes, they do recommend that you use the roof brackets every 5', but if there are any joints above I like to use them so that the chimney is secured at the bottom and top so you know the chimney is secured in two spots to hold onto.

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that is a good idea.. but the thing i dont like, it only supports the chimeny pipe on one direction..

im wondering how hard it would be to build my own support that is 3 ways like a tripod around the chimeny.. that would be the tuffest i think.


Ray

NNYorker said:

CSCPeter said:

I would highly recommend against using any screws in the simpson pipe cause that allows for heat transfer to go through the screw and you loose all you clearances that was tested by Simpson. Simpson does make optional locking bands if you dont trust the twist lock. I think that i have used them like twice ever, cause when you use the roof bracket it holds it right in place. You also get a lifetime warranty with their stuff, first 15 yrs is 100% all parts and after 15yrs 50% on all parts. As far as for looks, and ease of installation Simpson wins.

Click to expand...

Through the roof sections=sections above the roof line, not attic/living space. Unless I've got a full on chimney fire I don't think I'll get too much heat transfer through 3 ea. #6 X 1/2" screws which do not penetrate the interior wall of the pipe- they penetrate the "locking lug" section of each section.

I installed a roof bracket also. While trying to remove the very top section to clean the rain cap the whole chimney twists - not very handy as the thru the roof connection moves also. Is it locked or not?? I find the "locking" part very vague feeling- like it's not locked. I installed my screws because I was taking apart the chimney and I didn't want to wait a couple of weeks for $15 each bands. This quick fix solved my problem- no more chimney twisting.

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Ive priced the bands and unless Im mistaken they are about $8.