temporarily block airwash holes

Anybody have any ideas of something that could be used to block small airwash holes from working?

Background- Reviews of my stove (NZ6000) are filled with complaints about dirty glass and how the airwash is ineffective. Also as hot as I get my stove (500) I can never burn off the grapefruit size soot pattern in the upper corners. This area is exactly where the majority of the airwash holes spew the air. I'm thinking that since the air for these holes comes from external cold intakes mounted on the outside of my chase, they actually cool the glass in those areas promoting soot and keeping the temp too low to burn it off. Everywhere else the airwash does not blow stays clean at high temps.

Soooo, I would like to try and clog or block the holes to see if my theory works. So Im looking for something that might block the air but could later be removed (either drilled out or just a metal/verm barrier that could be moved)

R U kidding?

The stove cement sounds like a pretty good idea. I could possible paste them over the 200 holes and then give it a try. Then when I've tried it out just either push them clean with a small nail or drill them out if they stick. Other idea I thought about was using some firebrick morter. Same idea, clog the holes then just clean them out if it doesn't work. THanks.

Wood is Oak cut myself 2 years ago. TO save everyone time this unit NZ6000 is known to have airwash/dirty glass issues with everything working well, (tight gaskets, dry wood, good chimney draw etc) Even Napoleon tech is aware of the glass issue.
But what I notice is the soot is always centered on where the airwash holes (about 200) focus the air. THis air is drawn in from outside vents and used for combustion, stack cooling, and also airwash air. It does circulate around the firebox before being used (preheated) but I can't believe it is anywhere as hot as the inside of this unit and other parts of the glass. In other words I believe the airwash is cooling the glass to a temp lower than it would otherwise get from the heat of combustion. This is only a theory based on observation of where the soot seems to concentrate. I can get the stove hot enough to burn soot off the glass in areas farthest from the airwash, but the soot is thickest closest to the airwash.
Maybe I'm wrong but I thought what could hurt by just checking the theory out. Clogging some of the airwash holes doesn't sound too radical as this sometimes happens to people who burn dirty, so I don't think I'm suggesting anything dangerous here.

LLigetfa said:

littlesmokey said:

I don't follow your theory. If it was an issue of the air getting in, why have an airwash? If letting the air in cools the glass, hat about the outside? Do you understand the reason for the airwash system? I think the issue is a poorly or ineffective design for this stove. Eliminating it will completely defeat the purpose.

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I agree. Besides naming the fuel as primary suspect, a lot could have to do with how the stove is loaded and how it is operated. IOW, pilot error.

The proof of the pudding IS in the eating, so go ahead and block it off with a few screws and fender washers.

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All fair analysis. By the way, I've burned eco-logs and had the problem. If you read the stove reviews here on this site about the NZ6000 you will see that just about everyone has the problem. I would really love to talk to one owner who doesn't have this issue. I agree it is a design problem. Thats why I am experimenting with changing the design in a way that can be reversed. I think the best idea is to use some firebrick clay/plaster to clog some of the holes on one side only and see what happens. Somebody asked this question,- All the air enters from an outside vent and from the diagrams appears to then be divided up for three uses, airwash/combustion/ stack cooling. So blocking off that vent probably won't be an option. I will let you all know how the test works. Thanks for the ideas.

Thanks, I have.