Broke the handle in my single bit axe the other day. Picked up a new Ames hickory handle(made in the USA even!) and have fit it to the head. It came with one wooden wedge. I have seen some that also have smaller steel wedges driven across the wooden one. Is this really needed? What else might I do to make sure the axe head stays where it should? Friend of mine says his Grampa used to put his axe in a bucket of water after replacing the handle. I can see that would make the wood swell but what happens when it dries? Any suggestions? Thanks,Ed.
Replacing axe handle.
- Thread starter southpaw
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LLigetfa
Minister of Fire
Don't soak it in water! After you drive in the wedge, don't cut the end flush with the head. Leave 1/2" sticking out so that when it shrinks and loosens, you still have another 1/2" of wedge to drive in, then you can cut it flush. The smaller metal wedge helps to expand the handle perpendicular to the wood wedge.
I did a quick search on ehow.com. Guy there said to drill a 1/4 " hole about 2 to 2 1/2" deep in the bottom of the handle and filling it with boiled linseed oil would keep the head tight. Supposedly the oil will migrate the length of the handle and cause the wood to swell. Said to repeat as needed. Anyone ever hear of such a thing?
No way was I going to soak it in water,although I think I will get some steel wedges.
No way was I going to soak it in water,although I think I will get some steel wedges.
savageactor7
Minister of Fire
I've probably soaked at least 15+ properly installed handles in water...none of 'em ever came loose in operation either.
Of course I just do that cause my father told me to...truthfully I don't understand the 'why' behind it. Long time ago I was told after being shown how to install any swinging type handles to soak it in water for about 5 days so they don't work loose.
Of course I just do that cause my father told me to...truthfully I don't understand the 'why' behind it. Long time ago I was told after being shown how to install any swinging type handles to soak it in water for about 5 days so they don't work loose.
quads
Minister of Fire
I don't use wooden handles anymore, now all mine are plastic/fiberglass held in with epoxy. But I read somewhere here, don't remember who said it, to use epoxy on your wooden handle and it won't come loose. None of my fiberglass handles have ever come loose, so epoxy on a wooden handle sounds like a good idea to me.
Dune
Minister of Fire
Soaking in water is a temporay fix at best. The real way is to soak the head/handle in oil. Water will just dry out after a while. A two week soak in oil is best, preferably used transmission oil. Alternatively, a good soaking with epoxy at assembly time is also a permant fix. As a blacksmith with several hundred wood handled tools, I have a bit of experience in this.
A seperate issue, while we are on the subject; removing the old handle. A properly made handled tool has two tapers in the eye (hole where the handle fits). the bottom taper is small, just enough to seat the handle. The top taper is larger, allowing the tip of the handle to spread when the wedge is pounded home. Since the end of the handle is now wider than the eye hole at it's narrowest point, the head stays on the handle. It is for this reason that the way to remove a broken handle is to saw off the broken part, then drive the remains from the bottom, not try to push the already expanded top through the smaller bottom.
A seperate issue, while we are on the subject; removing the old handle. A properly made handled tool has two tapers in the eye (hole where the handle fits). the bottom taper is small, just enough to seat the handle. The top taper is larger, allowing the tip of the handle to spread when the wedge is pounded home. Since the end of the handle is now wider than the eye hole at it's narrowest point, the head stays on the handle. It is for this reason that the way to remove a broken handle is to saw off the broken part, then drive the remains from the bottom, not try to push the already expanded top through the smaller bottom.
Didn't think about using epoxy on it!! To late now as I have it in the head and wedge in. I wondered about using oil.May give that a whirl! Thanks Gents,appreciate your help!! Ed.
The steel wedges are good. I use two perpendicular to the wooden wedge. Also, replacement handles do season more after purchase. I like to keep a spare, then it is fully dry when I put it on. They don't come loose that way.
Danno77
Minister of Fire
after replacing handle soak it in boiled linseed oil (BLO). Since that stuff can be expensive I put it in a bag instead of trying to fill a bucket with enough oil to cover the head.
I did this with my maul and was surprised how well it helped fit the head on even though i might have done a "less than awesome" job of shaving the handle to fit in there....
I did this with my maul and was surprised how well it helped fit the head on even though i might have done a "less than awesome" job of shaving the handle to fit in there....
I bed handles with epoxy.
Water will cause the wood to swell and crush itself against the eye of the axe. It will loosen up when it dries out and then the handle will be worse.
Having the extra handle on hand is a great idea.
Matt
Water will cause the wood to swell and crush itself against the eye of the axe. It will loosen up when it dries out and then the handle will be worse.
Having the extra handle on hand is a great idea.
Matt
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