PE Pacific Insert Not Bullet-Proof

Pics:
I flipped all the fire bricks over, and the bottoms & backs were like new. Should be good for a couple more years or so.
A full shot of the insert.
Left face & close up.
There is one small area where the tiger pad made a small groove, while the welder was trying to smooth & polish the weld behind and just above the hinge.
I did not want the hinge cut off and rewelded on just to polish it perfect. I told him, to do his best and good enough. I am ok with it, and once the door is on you can't see much at all. And from a couple feet away ya see nothing.
He literally had to hold his finger (in his glove) against the back of the tiger pad to get enough pressure & contact tot the repair near the hinge area. The tiger pad was thing and would just flex if he did not push his finger against the back of it while It was spinning.

Fire.
I am also trying my new prototype baffle gasket. It is door glass gasket which folds longways in 1/2. I centered it's sticky side to the the baffle opening edge, then folded it over to meet the area around the outside of the baffle surface where it rests on the back ledge. To this point the stock, and both my hand made gasket do not stop secondary from going on in the back along the baffle rear lower edge into the back of the firebox. I have decided to live with that bit of secondary back there, which may actually help burn the wood in back, as I never end up with charcoal back there. At least I know the gaskets survive the burning season very well and are truly reusable.

As for my review and view of PE at this point.
The dealer actually turned out ok. I did most of the legwork, but wanted things done as quick as possible, and I am sure he knew that. I took the initiative and he went with the flow.
Cory at PE was very helpful, and gave me no attitude, and generally seemed like he wanted to resolve the issue and honor the warranty. I would buy PE products again, and would have no problem recommending to anyone I know or was interested. I feel very comfortable knowing PE stands by their product & warranty. I will however keep my eye open for any further issues. I hope this is the end of any cracking & such.
My only real beef is the quality control dept. I know of a couple guys/gals that need their asses handed to them. They are the last in line to assure a quality, properly made & prepared product goes out to the consumer. And whoever was on duty the day mine was crated, was asleep at the wheel. Which the way the check off card was scribbled, indicates. The EBT should be another thing double checked before shipping. After 3 years, only after I decided o pull it out and check it, did I find it was not even completely put together and operating properly. I am not knocking the company, but the QC dept. Every phase of the build to the paint to the QC & crating is equally as important. In the end, I would still buy again. I would check everything including the EBT and every other operating component before installation though.
2 thumbs up here for PE.

53flyer said:

Hogwildz said:

Ok, I should have let the pain air cure a couple days, if it becomes a problem, I'll sand & refinish. I just had to see how it is operating .
I wanted to see if it operated better now that the EBT flapper was in position and covering the hole when it should be. I did not run it hot enough to engage the EBT yet.
Seems more level and more easily controllable. I won't really know till its up to full temp.
Here are some photos:
Right face after paint, and close up.
EBT, notice the bees, flys & ladybugs. Note to self, during yearly cleaning, pull EBT, inspect & clean.
Sorry, forgot to take a phot of the flapper in correct position. it has a tab on each side that sits in a slot in those brackets each side.

Click to expand...

Hey, I can actually "see" a picture in this post (usually I can't) The pic I see looks like the left face close up but it's tagged as right face close up? I updated the yr bought, if you know the month I'll add that too.

Click to expand...

7/06 is the date on the QC card. I ain't pulling the insert to red the tag on the back.
11/15/06 Deposit put down, 12/2/06 paid fro and brought home.
As for the pictures. Its a habit of mine. My work is insurance adjuster dealing with tractor trailer wrecks. I label my photos per if your sitting in the vehicle, not looking at from front.
Hence right side is curbside, left side is driver's side. Sorry bout that.

wxman said:

Two notes:

1. to me it looks like when the crack was ground down it did not go all the way through is that the case?
2. I have pacific insert and while I do not have face cracks I do have 1 cracked internal weld that does not go to an outside an source. I will monitor it and if it gets bigger or more show up it will be reported to my distributor.

unit purchased in 2007 not sure of manufacture date.

Click to expand...

WX, yes the crack was completely through the weld. It was just finer and harder to see once ground out.

53flyer said:

Hogwildz said:

Fire.
I am also trying my new prototype baffle gasket. It is door glass gasket which folds longways in 1/2. I centered it's sticky side to the the baffle opening edge, then folded it over to meet the area around the outside of the baffle surface where it rests on the back ledge. To this point the stock, and both my hand made gasket do not stop secondary from going on in the back along the baffle rear lower edge into the back of the firebox. I have decided to live with that bit of secondary back there, which may actually help burn the wood in back, as I never end up with charcoal back there. At least I know the gaskets survive the burning season very well and are truly reusable.

Click to expand...

I was actually told by a dealer that you don't even need the gasket and that some people who accidentally sweep theirs out with the ashes don't ever put another one in. What are PE owners thoughts on that statement?

Click to expand...

That could be true, but I would rather have that air go to the front of the baffle then just flow back there, looks like its going to do both now with the gasket. My home made gaskets last longer so its not an issue now for me.

pilot-werx said:

Hogwildz said:

pilot-werx said:

I have a PE Summit. Will be a year old next week. If you are happy having it welded then so be it...

Click to expand...

Check your Stove plate or QC card for date of manufacture. If between 2006-2007, keep an eye on the problem areas.
I am happy to be able to have heat soon, as it is getting cold here. If they want tp replace it next spring or summer, I would not turn a new one down.
I don't have time to wait till the middle of winter for a new one now. And highly doubt that option is on the table as of yet.

Click to expand...

Looking through the paper work, the QC tag indicates it was built on 09/18/08. Time will tell....

Your repair looks like there was nothing ever wrong. Nice job! What did you use for paint?

Click to expand...

Thanks,
The insert actually came with a card from Stove Bright, the paint they use at PE factory. So that is what I bought.
It is Black Metallic. The local hardware stores, HD & Lowes did not carry anything but Rustoleum.
I was out on a job Wednesday and stopped by a stove shop I was considering prior to making my initial insert purchase from another shop. Thy had the cans of Stove Bright paint in stock.
I was pleasantly surprises to find at the shop it cost $9.95. I wanted it that day too. As I ended up painting everything that night.
I looked online and it ran around $13.00 to $16.00. And I would have shipping to pay and the wait fro it to be shipped.
PE has agreed to also reimburse me for the can of paint also.
I just noticed my damn door glass gasket has about an inch area inside that the glass edge is not covered bu the gasket portion inside. Not PE's fault, as I replaced the glass and gasket last year I think it was.
It is tight on the outside, so should really be a non issue. But now knowing it is there, I just can't stop thinking about it, and will replace it and correctly install a new one.
I notice I am becoming an anal perfectionist when it comes to my wood burning. Hope I don't get Howard Hughes syndrome
Could be real bad trying to put more splits in with tissues covering my hands.

We are supposed to drop to 26 tonight. Summit is going, I am babying it for now, but house is 72. Good for me, the girls are wrapped up in blankets. Sheesh.
Looks like I am off to the hardware store tomorrow for a door glass gasket.

BeGreen said:

We are supposed to drop to 26 tonight. Summit is going, I am babying it for now, but house is 72. Good for me, the girls are wrapped up in blankets. Sheesh.

Click to expand...

Wimps . So when do the 30NC afterburners kick in Hog?

Click to expand...

Well, I am working on the last wall of stone in the bedroom, then I can get the flooring down, and I am contemplating changing the flooring I planned to install in the office.
It a southern facing room, and was looking at some sweet looking 16" x 16" black granite tiles at HD last weekend. Was going to use that for a hearth, then install the laminate flooring around it. Was also thinking of raising just the area under the stove very high, so high I could stand up straight & load it, and save my back some pain. Then cultured stone around the sides of the platform. I am pretty set on the raised platform now, but have been thinking of installing the black granite on entire office floor, which is next to the entrance, so I would have to do the entrance in it also. I think I remember it being $3 something a pc, so it would prolly be somewhere around a grand to do in those areas area. I already have the laminate for it. But the black granite would give some great passive solar heat in the winter. I just can't make up my mind. Any suggestions?

BeGreen said:

If the granite is textured, it should work ok, but I wouldn't put it on the floor if it was glossy. With wet shoes or boots, it could become a skating rink. Not fun if you're toting in an armload of wood. If it does have good texture for flooring, then I would consider adding a contrasting border made of smaller tiles in a simple geometric pattern. The border could wrap around the hearth and look pretty trick.

Click to expand...

Its pretty smooth. If I was going to use it, I would put a entrance mat or rug at the doors, and maybe a small area rug in the center. Kinda defeats the purpose I guess.
I think I will stick with the laminate which is a Dupont Real Touch, and is also a stone pattern, more grays though. I'll do the hearth in the Granite to meet the laminate flooring level, but also raise the hearth just under the stove, do the sides walls of the raised portion in cultured stone, and the top again in granite. Less costly, and might actually look pretty good. I def want it raised high enough that I can load while standing up. Back has been not cooperating very much lately, and putting off getting cut open for as long as I possibly can. Processing the wood alone makes me pay for days afterward, but I truly love doing it, so its fair trade off while I still can do it.

Wacky1 said:

Hog, not to change subjects, what kind of burn times should I be getting loaded with red oak n/s split mixed with non-split?

Click to expand...

Wacky, Madison pretty much summed it up.
Depends on many things, insulation in the house, outdoor temps, wind, draft etc.
When it is warm like today, I am still looking at some solid red coals from about 13 hours ago.
Now in the colder weather, it burns down quicker it seems to me. Maybe a stronger draft also.
You should have no prob loading before bed, and having plenty of coals to restart at reload in the morning.
Larger splits & rounds will yield longer burn times.
One problem you may find with all oak, is lots of coals.