The Equinox Has It's First Problem

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FireWalker

Feeling the Heat
Aug 7, 2008
380
Lake George
The air control damper gets stuck in the full "off" position. Applying force to the handle to open the damper gives me the feeling I'm not helping the situation. If I gently wiggle the handle, it lets go and opens normally. My Wife just called me and asked what gives, I can't open the damper.

From day one this mechanism has sounded a little "metal to metal" when operating, it kind of dings when you hit full open and full closed. What does the mechanism consist of and is there something I need to lubricate or adjust?
 
Should have bought the BK! J/k, here's a bump for you... hopefully someone in the know will be by soon to help out.
 
FireWalker said:
The air control damper gets stuck in the full "off" position. Applying force to the handle to open the damper gives me the feeling I'm not helping the situation. If I gently wiggle the handle, it lets go and opens normally. My Wife just called me and asked what gives, I can't open the damper.

From day one this mechanism has sounded a little "metal to metal" when operating, it kind of dings when you hit full open and full closed. What does the mechanism consist of and is there something I need to lubricate or adjust?

I had an issue with one of the first equinox models i sold. The ash leaver would not work smoothly. I wish i could remember exactly what was wrong, but i remember i got a lever assembly under warranty for the customer. Give your dealer a call and have your serial number ready.
 
I have a spot about midway through the rang where the lever sticks and I need to jiggle it to go farther. It also dings at full open or full closed. I suspect that there is a flat piece of metal sliding in a channel and getting cockeyed in the channel. Jiggling releases the cockeye situation and it slides smoothly. You quickly get used to the jiggle.

The EQ and the heritage sure look the same I wonder if they use the same but scaled up components.
 
Highbeam said:
I have a spot about midway through the rang where the lever sticks and I need to jiggle it to go farther. It also dings at full open or full closed. I suspect that there is a flat piece of metal sliding in a channel and getting cockeyed in the channel. Jiggling releases the cockeye situation and it slides smoothly. You quickly get used to the jiggle.

The EQ and the heritage sure look the same I wonder if they use the same but scaled up components.

I was afraid I would get this answer. I'm not particularly fond of jiggiling. Must fix.......take apart and put back together. What is in there that makes it work?
 
What did your dealer say when you asked them? I'm sure they could put a call into Hearthstone on your behalf.
 
Franks said:
What did your dealer say when you asked them? I'm sure they could put a call into Hearthstone on your behalf.

My dealer said: there is really very little to that mechanism.......we have never heard of any other problems with our stoves and because your warrenty is up we get $85 for on-site service then $85/hour.

That is what I got from my dealer. You think I should call back and ask if he will make a call for me?
 
FireWalker said:
Franks said:
What did your dealer say when you asked them? I'm sure they could put a call into Hearthstone on your behalf.

My dealer said: there is really very little to that mechanism.......we have never heard of any other problems with our stoves and because your warrenty is up we get $85 for on-site service then $85/hour.

That is what I got from my dealer. You think I should call back and ask if he will make a call for me?

Was your dealer Eddie Drexel on on Rt28 north of Warrensburg, or the guy in the log cabin looking place on 9N goin up towards Bolton Landing?
 
I just know that to access the primary air control slider deal is no easy task. I could blindly shoot lube into the slot where the lever runs but that might just make it worse. Can you easily access the EQ's slider?
 
Been there done that.
Called hearthstone they realized there is an issue ,never got back to me .
But if you want to fix it your self, disconnect the sliding grate mechanism.
Drop the ash pan assembly , enough to reach up into the left front corner & lube the sliding plate & rod.
The early build stoves had a bolt on lever handle that made things even worse, because as the sliding plate jammed the nut would loosen and strip the shaft.
I used a high quality high heat bearing grease & have not had a problem with it since,

But I think copper anti- seize compound would work even better.

There is nothing fancy going on in there , just a 1/8 rod pushing a 1/8 inch flat plate .
Lack of lubrication make the flat plate bind & lift out of its resting place
 
Wet1 said:
Should have bought the BK! J/k, here's a bump for you... hopefully someone in the know will be by soon to help out.

+1
 
doug60 said:
Been there done that.
Called hearthstone they realized there is an issue ,never got back to me .
But if you want to fix it your self, disconnect the sliding grate mechanism.
Drop the ash pan assembly , enough to reach up into the left front corner & lube the sliding plate & rod.
The early build stoves had a bolt on lever handle that made things even worse, because as the sliding plate jammed the nut would loosen and strip the shaft.
I used a high quality high heat bearing grease & have not had a problem with it since,

But I think copper anti- seize compound would work even better.

There is nothing fancy going on in there , just a 1/8 rod pushing a 1/8 inch flat plate .
Lack of lubrication make the flat plate bind & lift out of its resting place

Maybe graphite would work too
 
Franks said:
FireWalker said:
Franks said:
What did your dealer say when you asked them? I'm sure they could put a call into Hearthstone on your behalf.

My dealer said: there is really very little to that mechanism.......we have never heard of any other problems with our stoves and because your warrenty is up we get $85 for on-site service then $85/hour.

That is what I got from my dealer. You think I should call back and ask if he will make a call for me?

Was your dealer Eddie Drexel on on Rt28 north of Warrensburg, or the guy in the log cabin looking place on 9N goin up towards Bolton Landing?

Cozy Cabins in Warrensburg, Ed is the man.
 
Thought so. Tell him Frank Sappo said to get on the phone with Jim at Hearthstone and get you an answer asap, or I will be out there to visit him. He used to work for me and my dad doing stoves back in the late 80's early 90's. Tell him he owes me for never trying to date his little sister.

If that doesnt work, let me know, I'll call Hearthstone for you.
 
doug60 said:
Been there done that.
Called hearthstone they realized there is an issue ,never got back to me .
But if you want to fix it your self, disconnect the sliding grate mechanism.
Drop the ash pan assembly , enough to reach up into the left front corner & lube the sliding plate & rod.
The early build stoves had a bolt on lever handle that made things even worse, because as the sliding plate jammed the nut would loosen and strip the shaft.
I used a high quality high heat bearing grease & have not had a problem with it since,

But I think copper anti- seize compound would work even better.

There is nothing fancy going on in there , just a 1/8 rod pushing a 1/8 inch flat plate .
Lack of lubrication make the flat plate bind & lift out of its resting place

Now here is the information I was looking for, thank you Doug and everyone here for that matter. To be honest I would rather fix things like this myself. In doing so, I don't have to let strangers in my home, I learn how things work and I don't have to worry if some kid didn't take the time needed to do the job right.

When I take the pan assembly apart, is there any cement or sealing materials I should have on hand before reassembly? Would the same high temp. lubricant be useful on the shaker handle or is that area too hot for lube........maybe some graphite lube?
 
Franks said:
Thought so. Tell him Frank Sappo said to get on the phone with Jim at Hearthstone and get you an answer asap, or I will be out there to visit him. He used to work for me and my dad doing stoves back in the late 80's early 90's. Tell him he owes me for never trying to date his little sister.

If that doesnt work, let me know, I'll call Hearthstone for you.

Frank, thank you......this place is great! Let me ask you, if it were your stove, would you get a Hearthstone mfgr. rep./repair man on site to repair the stove or would you fix it yourself.
 
Personally, if it was not covered under warranty, I would fix it myself. I have the advantage though of being in the business with ready access to Hearthstones dealer support line. You got a pretty good detailed explaination of the fix from Doug60. If your a handy guy, tackle it yourself. You got these forums to fall back on if you run into an issue. Still, give Eddie my regards
 
my 2 cents - stove is a year old and my hearth shop went out of biz. my new shop is awesome - i would trust them to do the work, and u've worked with their owner for years, so i don't mind supporting the local biz. but that's if it was midweek or i was outta town or something. if i had the time, i'd try to do it myself. until i couldn't - then i'd make the call. and watch 'em :)
 
Franks said:
Thought so. Tell him Frank Sappo said to get on the phone with Jim at Hearthstone and get you an answer asap, or I will be out there to visit him. He used to work for me and my dad doing stoves back in the late 80's early 90's. Tell him he owes me for never trying to date his little sister.

If that doesnt work, let me know, I'll call Hearthstone for you.

I called Ed, He told me a lot of people know him........I asked nicely if he might call Hearthstone and just ask the question regarding fixing a binding air control mechanism. Ed agreed and took my number and said he will get back to me. Thanks again folks!

And Ed if your reading this thanks in advance, I love my big stone heater!
 
Cory, from Cozy Cabins called me back and confirmed Doug60's fix. They would be glad to do it for me but I'm not in a spending mood so I'll take this one on myself. He recommends graphite lubricant. I'll report back with repair results and level of difficulty, sounds like you could use some lube too Highbeam.
 
Tell Cory Kelly that he can thank me for not dating his sister as well...not for lack of trying though. Good guys Ed and Cory, I grew up with them both. Good luck with the repair, and the graphite is the way to go
 
Franks said:
Tell Cory Kelly that he can thank me for not dating his sister as well...not for lack of trying though. Good guys Ed and Cory, I grew up with them both. Good luck with the repair, and the graphite is the way to go

I am guessing you are from around here, I grew up in Glens Falls and moved my family to Warrensburg in 94. We love it here!

Thanks for your help.
 
Yup, I lived in Athol, then Lake George from 84-94. My pop and I had a stove shop called Warm Wood Stoves on the corner of 9 and 28 just north of Warrensburg. I miss that place and miss fishing Brandt Lake.
 
Maybe I could use some lube. Take some pics of the whole deal so that we all can do this. Seems that the lower ash pan/air manifold assembly is held up with several bolts and a rope gasket. I wonder if any leaks would just be into the ash pan area.

While you're in there, you might look at what it would take to be able to turn your primary air down further than the EPA wants you to.
 
Highbeam said:
Maybe I could use some lube. Take some pics of the whole deal so that we all can do this. Seems that the lower ash pan/air manifold assembly is held up with several bolts and a rope gasket. I wonder if any leaks would just be into the ash pan area.

While you're in there, you might look at what it would take to be able to turn your primary air down further than the EPA wants you to.

The guy tells me there are 7 bolts and he thinks the rope gasket is 5/8", I'll be finding out. If I can get my camera under there I will snap some but I've been told it's pretty tight under there. I am going to guess taking the pan down will be easy.......putting it back on while getting the scews aligned may give me a hard time. I used to work on my own cars and I had British ones, Italian ones, and even a French one so I guessing I'll be O.K.

Regarding the lower than factory setting for the air intake, I have no complaints so I have little reason to turn it down more. As it is I just can't believe how easy it is to "get it right" with this stove. Get the fire going hot and turn it all the way down and the blue/yellow flames do their levitated dance behind the glass. No fussing, just use dry wood, doesn't matter if it's big chunks or small sticks, it's just a big old ash maker.
 
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