I have used the tire method for years. It is at least twice as fast. I've also improved on the design. here is a copy from the "gear" forum w/link (I don't know how to bring the images over, hopefully the link will work OK):
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/46849/
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Years ago, I was given a dozen uncut cords with a time limit to remove them. I googled around for the best wood splitter and saw a fellow claim in the newsgroups that he could split wood faster and better than a splitter. He described a great setup, which I copied and made my job of hand splitting at least twice as efficient. I have been unable to find the old post.
The 32” round finally rotted to where I needed to make another. So I redesigned with a few improvements. Sorry if everyone already knows this—no one in my area does.
Why is this good?
- The wood doesn’t fly away after a strike. This alone is worth the price!
- The wood is at, and stays in, a nice bundle at waist height.
- The tire actually bounces the ax back up a bit! Recouping some energy
- The tire keeps the ax head from hitting the cutting base, axes stay sharper.
- Odd shapes, thin pieces, and slanted pieces are easily set for a solid strike.
- Most chips remain below where they are readily scooped for tinder/kindling
The design shown was made to be portable. My last weighed a few hundred pounds and had to be rolled at great effort to move.
Fabrication:
- Base: 4x4 treated wood, cradles Center. About 12” high. TimberLock bolts hold it together.
- Center: 4x4 wood inserts into Base, 5” of plywood are nailed into 4x4s (no nails used in middle where ax can hit), Has two 9” nails driven in, with 4” sticking out and heads cut of—these are guides and locks for the Top pedestals
- Top: A half ton truck tire with 4 small 4x4 pieces mounted on it. These pieces raise the tire to a good height so the ax head won’t hit the Center. They also provide holes for wood chips and water to find their way out.
That’s it!
Bill
