durock multiple layers

i needed 1.5 for mine so i used 6 sheets of it. we just screwed it together- no need to cement them.

oh and each sheet is .26 so you'd need a bit more than 3 - call it 4 and you would be well over .84 at 1.04.

Last I saw durock was 0.20 per 1/2" thickness. The woodstock keystone needs 0.84 for hearth R-value? I thought they only needed ember protection.

I also could not get micore in WA so I used "dead air space" per the hearthstone manual.

The instructions appear to require that sheet of steel as well. Ugh, why can't they just give us an R-value requirement and let us be creative?

Okay, so if I build what the page in BeGreen's message says, I'm good to go--no chance of issues? If this is the case, why do some hearth pads measure 1.25" in thickness? I saw some this past Saturday at a stove dealer in Clovis for $495.00. They were very nice, but for $495? Hody Cow! If the plywood, durock, tile will do just as well, why $495?? BTW, is this durock the same as concrete Hardi-Board or not. If not, can it be gotten at Home Depot or Lowes? Thanks--

I bonded my layers of Durock together with thinset and then screwed them as well. It came out very rigid.

I agree with BeGreen. This is all very confusing business. I went through this about a year ago when installing my Jotul 3TD. I had to convert k-value to R-value and then use the Hearth wiki chart to determine the R-value of 1/2" durock and 1/4" tile. I used two layers of durock (bonded with thinset and screws) followed by a layer of tile. That put me slightly under the required R-value for my stove. However, in practice, I can place and keep my hand on the tile under the stove with a roaring fire going and the tile is not really even warm to the touch. I'm all in favor of following manufacturer's recommendations but sometimes I think the lawyers rather than the engineers come up with the requirements.
ChipTam

You may have already taken care of this, but hardiebacker has a rating of .13 per 1/4" or .26 for 1/2" http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner/products_backerboard_halfInch.shtml

so that would work for you as well.

If it help I also used thinset between the mess of stuff I built it worked out just fine.

murph said:

You may have already taken care of this, but hardiebacker has a rating of .13 per 1/4" or .26 for 1/2" http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner/products_backerboard_halfInch.shtml

so that would work for you as well.

If it help I also used thinset between the mess of stuff I built it worked out just fine.

Click to expand...

So, the 1/2" HardiBoard IS okay? I've been mulling this over a lot and was wondering exactly what it is we're trying to protect the floor and sub-floor from. Does anyone have a handle on this and exactly how much of a danger we're facing?

My floor is 1/2" tile 16" square laid over a plywood subfloor. For the pad maybe 1/2" plywood, then a layer of small-cell expanded metal, then 1/2" Hardi-Board, screw that together and then set more of the floor tile on top of that with the thin-set. The thinking is that the expanded metal layer would be a barrier to and/or disperse the heat. In addition, I thought I might use the leftover 1/2" HardiBoard pieces to raise the whole shebang off the floor creating an airspace for more heat dissapation. What is the braintrust's thinking on this arrangement? Is this overkill? If so, would it be worth it? I don't mind overkill if it's not a killing cost.

Then how can we know we've accomplished the objective?

ChipTam said:

I agree with BeGreen. This is all very confusing business. I went through this about a year ago when installing my Jotul 3TD. I had to convert k-value to R-value and then use the Hearth wiki chart to determine the R-value of 1/2" durock and 1/4" tile. I used two layers of durock (bonded with thinset and screws) followed by a layer of tile. That put me slightly under the required R-value for my stove. However, in practice, I can place and keep my hand on the tile under the stove with a roaring fire going and the tile is not really even warm to the touch. I'm all in favor of following manufacturer's recommendations but sometimes I think the lawyers rather than the engineers come up with the requirements.
ChipTam

Click to expand...

So, is that roughly how we can tell if there is a potential problem? If one can place one's hand underneath the stove, as in this case, does that mean that the underlying surfaces are safe? If one created an airspace underneath the protection pad, would that help or is it radiational heating we're dealing with? Just trying to figure this all out! Thanks--

What does woodstock say? Being so high on customer service I suspect they can send you a memo or TSB to show the inspector. I could swear that they also required a sheet of steel in there which I always thought was overkill.

Here in NH The only place we could find Micore, was a company that specializes in acoustic celiings. Do you have that type of company in your area? This all gets a lot easier if you can find Micore. - I just went through this scenario myself this year, with the help from this forum.

I don't know if these are near you but they are micore distributors I got from Micore/USG website.


BUILDING SPECIALTIES
14980 NE 90TH STREET
P O BOX 350
REDMOND, Washington
Phone: 425-882-3116
Fax: 425-881-5830

# Micore
BUILDING SPECIALTIES, INC.
EAST 6819 MISSION
SPOKANE, Washington
Phone: 800-909-2526
Fax: 509-893-0866

It's ugly formatting but this was cut from the fireview manual. They still require the sheet metal. Oddly omitted from the other stoves it seems.



Your Woodstock Soapstone stove must stand on either:
1) a hearth of solid masonry (brick, stone, or tile supported by concrete),
2) a prefabricated hearth pad listed to UL standards. These pads can be placed on
top of a wood or carpeted floor. (Woodstock Soapstone Company carries a
selection of these pads.)
3) a custom designed pad made up of approved non-combustible materials which
will protect the floor from sparks, hot coals and ashes; and prevents heat from
being radiated onto the floor underneath.
If you decide to build your own hearth to go over a combustible floor, start with a
plywood base. Over this apply:
1) a layer of 24 gauge galvanized sheetmetal,
2) a 1/2 inch layer of an approved non-combustible insulation board (such as
DUROCK cement board or WonderBoard Backer Board),
3) decorative non-combustible material such as tile, slate, stone or brick.

Highbeam said:

It's ugly formatting but this was cut from the fireview manual. They still require the sheet metal. Oddly omitted from the other stoves it seems.



3) a custom designed pad made up of approved non-combustible materials which
will protect the floor from sparks, hot coals and ashes; and prevents heat from
being radiated onto the floor underneath.
If you decide to build your own hearth to go over a combustible floor, start with a
plywood base. Over this apply:

1) a layer of 24 gauge galvanized sheetmetal,
2) a 1/2 inch layer of an approved non-combustible insulation board (such as
DUROCK cement board or WonderBoard Backer Board),
3) decorative non-combustible material such as tile, slate, stone or brick.

Click to expand...

If you use the metal you can get away with one 1/2" layer of cement board? I'm suprised they don't say anything about a need for air space. This sounds like the way to go.

I don't think an air gap is ever required.