Best way to buck large logs?

If I cant roll it i will wedge the top kerf and cut from both sides just be careful at the bottom not to hit the dirt.

smokinjay said:

If I cant roll it i will wedge the top kerf and cut from both sides just be careful at the bottom not to hit the dirt.

Click to expand...

+1

dave11 said:

smokinjay said:

If I cant roll it i will wedge the top kerf and cut from both sides just be careful at the bottom not to hit the dirt.

Click to expand...

But are you just making horizontal cuts, from each side? Seems to me you would have to bury the bar tip on at least the first cut, all the way down. Doesn't that also risk a kickback?

Click to expand...

cut over the top to a 45-90 degrees and down as far as you can go then switch sides you can keep the tip clear just keep an eye on it and let it tell you what degree you can get by with.

kinda like that

thats your starting point piviot from there to a 90 degrees if you can get by with it then stright down with wedge in top kerf then finish the last 1/3 from the other side

dave11 said:

smokinjay said:

thats your starting point piviot from there to a 90 degrees if you can get by with it then stright down with wedge in top kerf then finish the last 1/3 from the other side

Click to expand...

I think that's how the last tree guy did it here. Are you keeping the nose of the bar free though, or are you letting it bore farther into the log?

Click to expand...

if its clearing chips good out the back with out bogging your good to go, your saw will let you know. I can normally get atleast 60-70 degree and 90 most of the time.

When you need leverage cue up the music for Mr spud bar.

savageactor7 said:

When you need leverage cue up the music for Mr spud bar.

Click to expand...

I have a timber jack but its not going to help with a big trunk best to just keep making it small enough to handle.

A trick I've seen (but never tried myself) is to dig out or use a hose to wash out a tunnel of sorts under the cut, to avoid grounding the saw. What I have done is hunt around for gaps under the log where I can cut somewhat more safely. Because one way or another you've got to cut through the bottom of the log. Do it once in the middle and then you can roll the halves.

smokinjay said:

If I cant roll it i will wedge the top kerf and cut from both sides just be careful at the bottom not to hit the dirt.

Click to expand...

+1

Dig out a spot under it, preferably 1/2 down the log, and cut it. Hopefully you'll be able to roll the halves.

You do have a peavy, right?

dave11 said:

smokinjay said:

thats your starting point piviot from there to a 90 degrees if you can get by with it then stright down with wedge in top kerf then finish the last 1/3 from the other side

Click to expand...

I think that's how the last tree guy did it here. Are you keeping the nose of the bar free though, or are you letting it bore farther into the log?

Click to expand...

Dave, you can have the tip of the bar buried in wood without kick-back. The trick is to only to apply pressure to the bottom half of the tip. You run into trouble(kick-back) when you get the very tip or top part of the tip into uncut wood. You can actually plunge cut with the saw once you get this concept down, which is another way to do it. Plunge your saw into the log leaving an inch or so of uncut log at the top, this will prevent the log from pinching your bar. Act just like a wedge. Just be careful.

Another case where you need a cant hook. Then you can roll the logs.

Where can you find a peavy/cant hook or whatever they are called?

I have never seen a 'new' one.

Most hardware stores either have them or can order one. You can do a search for cant hook also. You want a cant hook rather than a peavey. One with a 3' or 4' handle should do everything you need done. Mine is a 4' handle.

.[/quote]

Years ago I saw a guy get hit in the face with a kickback, and it has always stuck in my mind. He was doing some sort of plunge cut on a large log, and was supposedly a pretty experienced user. I guess since then I've been skittish to let the bar tip go anywhere I can't see it. But to guys who do it regularly, I'm sure it's no different than any other cut.[/quote]

ok not to hijack or anything but I am on the verge of buying and using a chainsaw for the first time and on every page of the stihl sites it warns about kickback, is that what would cause it ? the tip of the saw?

ChrisNJ said:

.

Click to expand...

Years ago I saw a guy get hit in the face with a kickback, and it has always stuck in my mind. He was doing some sort of plunge cut on a large log, and was supposedly a pretty experienced user. I guess since then I've been skittish to let the bar tip go anywhere I can't see it. But to guys who do it regularly, I'm sure it's no different than any other cut.[/quote]

ok not to hijack or anything but I am on the verge of buying and using a chainsaw for the first time and on every page of the stihl sites it warns about kickback, is that what would cause it ? the tip of the saw?[/quote]

yes

Backwoods Savage said:

Most hardware stores either have them or can order one. You can do a search for cant hook also. You want a cant hook rather than a peavey. One with a 3' or 4' handle should do everything you need done. Mine is a 4' handle.

Click to expand...

Seriously, I have never seen one new.

I must pursue this as I need one badly.

cheers

Another plug for the peavey. Incredible how an otherwise immovable object becomes manageable when you put a 4' handle on it.

I'd sooner go into the woods sans peavey than into a gentlemans club with only a wad of Benjamins.

I'll saw through 2/3rds the way down the length of a log, then roll it 180° and attack from the other side.

I've got a peavey & I think it is useless. I can't get a bite with it on the big stuff & I don't need it for the small stuff. As far as cutting big logs, WEDGES are your friend. I am cutting up 4' diameter oak right now with a 6401 with a 20" bar. I have to cut it into chunks. I start at say at 10 on the clock & go over the top with the entire bar buried & then down to bottom bark on one side. Then down to the bottom on the other side. Then I rip down the face in thirds as close to the bottom as I can get. Then drive some wedges down & split the chunk off the bark. Then crosscut horizontally across the face at the depth I was able to hit coming down from the top. Leave the bottom center until I get the next section cut with the outer two third sections cut off. I can now come back for the bottom center section. Only thing is even though I am only cutting 14" cookies, I still have to rip them down to smaller chunks. They are just way to heavy to move otherwise. Oh yeah, I also can't use my pulp hooks for the chunks. They just bounce off!
Al

lobsta1 that's cause your not doing it right. Hold the hook all the way up against the handle and jam it on the log at 90 degrees. I'm in the tree biz and that's one hell of a useful tool.

chrisNJ I find personally kickback happens when I'm limbing a tree up and I hit another branch. The tip hits it and bounces up. Just take your time and go slow. Most of the time it's not the "new" chainsaw users that get hurt but the guys who have been using the for a long time and get lazy/careless.

The best way to buck large logs is with a BIG saw and a 3ft bar. Just kidding. Cut down both sides of log (at 90 degrees) and drive a wedge in top of log to keep bar from getting pinched. It can be done without getting chain in the dirt. Don't worry about burying the tip of the saw in the log. I do it all the time. Good luck and stay safe