Base Plate on Top of Extended Clay Flue Tile--for Simpson Duraliner?

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Dirtgrain

New Member
Oct 24, 2009
45
Ypsilanti, MI
Hello. I have all the parts I need (knock on wood) to install the Simpson Duraliner in my fireplace chimney for my Lopi Republic 1750i fireplace insert, which is sitting on the floor in my family room, waiting to be installed, taunting me every time the power has flickered off and on with the recent high winds, and daring me to brave the cold and install the liner.

I have the Simpson Extend-A-Cap Kit which is required for the installation. The directions show that the base plate from the kit, which will support the weight of the entire liner (18 feet or so of it), is shown in the directions to be mounted on the chimney, flush with the crown. On my chimney, the clay flue liner sticks out from the crown maybe three or four inches. Am I to cut off the extending section of the clay flue liner flush with the crown, or is it okay to mount the base plate on the extended clay flue liner? I worry that the clay flue liner is not strong enough to support the weight--is it? The directions do mention that screwing down the base plate is optional, and that one can just use sealant to attach the base plate, as the weight of the attached liner will hold it down (I'm assuming screwing the base plate into the liner isn't feasible).
 
You should be able to mount the anchor plate to the flue tile & use a roof brace kit for added strength,
but if the manufacturer says to cut the flue tile flush & mount the anchor plate to the mudcap,
then that's the correct way to do it, because that's the way it was tested.
It's your house & your call...
 
Thanks for the response, Daksy. Yah, the directions say nothing about cutting the flue tile; they just show in the diagram the base plate mounted flush with the crown. I wish they were more clear. This is the style of chimney I have:

Stop-Water-Leaks-From-The-Chimney-af.jpg


I'll look into the idea of using a roof-mounted brace.
 
Just silicone the plate down to the flue tile and it will be fine. That's how all our are installed, simpson duraliner and duraflex. I drive by one of the duraliner installs all the time, hasn't fallen down yet ;) He must not have the best wood either cause I can usually see smoke coming out of his chimney.
 
Dirtgrain said:
Hello. I have all the parts I need (knock on wood) to install the Simpson Duraliner in my fireplace chimney for my Lopi Republic 1750i fireplace insert, which is sitting on the floor in my family room, waiting to be installed, taunting me every time the power has flickered off and on with the recent high winds, and daring me to brave the cold and install the liner.

I have the Simpson Extend-A-Cap Kit which is required for the installation. The directions show that the base plate from the kit, which will support the weight of the entire liner (18 feet or so of it), is shown in the directions to be mounted on the chimney, flush with the crown. On my chimney, the clay flue liner sticks out from the crown maybe three or four inches. Am I to cut off the extending section of the clay flue liner flush with the crown, or is it okay to mount the base plate on the extended clay flue liner? I worry that the clay flue liner is not strong enough to support the weight--is it? The directions do mention that screwing down the base plate is optional, and that one can just use sealant to attach the base plate, as the weight of the attached liner will hold it down (I'm assuming screwing the base plate into the liner isn't feasible).
Click to expand...

Dirtgrain, just ran across your post here. I am about a month behind you with the same stove and I am also doing a full liner install. The top of my chimney is different than yours and a couple folks on here recommended what to do (some of the same good folks who answered you here) so I think my guy is going to seal the top plate on my chimney and use tapcons. I have been asking about the bottom though, where the liner attaches to the stove. So does your adapter just sit right in the collar by gravity, and did you need to cut a notch in it for the damper arm? Any problems? Any pics? Are you up and running?
 
Same issue here, I traced the clay tile on the underside of the plate, bent the sides down 90 degrees so they wrap down on all 4 sides, siliconed the top of the flue tile, and set the plate down on. Clean the bottom of the plate real good, make sure ya get the oils off. Use rubbing alcohol or even brake cleaner spray. Something that does not leave a residue. That plate does not support all the weight. The stove supports a good bit of it, but the weight that is on the plate will hold it down and help seal it to the silicone on the top of the tile. You do not have to cut the tile down, nor drill through it and chance cracking/breaking it fastening with screws.
 
Mine was about 1.5" higher - I also bent the plate to drop the metal down to the top of the chimney.

If you do want to cut it, I had to trim my other flue down (oil) - I used an angle grinder. Be careful not to crack the tile further down - go all the way through.
 
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