Smoking problen with Consolidated Dutchwest FA224ccl Small

awfireman said:

Hi Sean,

Would you recommend going with a flex pipe instead of the standard stove pipe. I just installed crimped 6" stove pipe the whole way but wanted to know if its worth it to replace it with flexpipe.

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It probably doesn't have a big impact on your smoking problem, but this is a MAJOR code violation - you are not supposed to use crimped stove pipe ANYPLACE where it can't be examined readily. This pipe is very specifically NOT approved for use in a chimney except possibly as a connector between the stove and an approved liner.

The reason is that standard steel stovepipe is not really adequate to withstand the heat of a chimney fire, and is prone to corrosion that can lead to leaks if it is where it can't be watched for problems and replaced when needed.

IF you can afford it, and it will work with your chimney the best material to use is RIGID stainless steel chimney liner. If you can't, go for Stainless steel (preferably 316TI alloy) FLEX liner, preferably insulated, and with blockoff plates at the top and bottom of your chimney that tightly air-seal the chimney. If at all possible avoid ovalizing the pipe anywhere - if necessary, cutting out the firplace damper frame to get clearance is usuall OK (though it will prevent you from being able to go back to using it as a regular fireplace)

Gooserider

awfireman said:

My stove has an oval flue collar so I am stuck here going with an oval to round on the first piece of pipe coming from the stove, unless they make another collar.

Thanks for your help guys. I will let you know how I make out with the changes.

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Just as a note, and I do NOT know if it applies in your case, VC seems to use the same basic flue collar connection design on most of their cast stoves, and thus you can get different collars if that helps. I know they make the oval, a 6" round and an 8" round, don't know if they do other sizes or not. (note that not all stoves are OK to use w/ all collars even if they will bolt up) I don't know that it would in your case, as long as the transition you are using is smooth, but it's something to keep in mind if you think that would make your install easier to work with.

Another thought if you are forced to use an ovalized connector on the first section going through the damper is that if you ovalize a 6" round pipe, you reduce it's cross-section area. However you can purchase ovalized pipe that keeps the area the same as 6" round. Some folks have used this as a way to get past dampers w/o restricting their flow.

Gooserider

Just some clarification,

You got some good advice and I agree with most of what has been said. However, VC does not make different collars for your model. You have a model that was in production when VC purchased CDW, and yes, it does use an oval collar. One of the changes that VC made was to change the collar on the Small Convection to a 6" round. But your stove will not support the newer collars. VC redesigned the mounting area on the back of the stove.

CDW sold a pipe kit for connection to fireplaces that included an ovalized pipe about 5 feet long and a tee connection. Everyone in the industry by that time knew that ovalizing the pipe was a no-no but CDW was selling direct to the consumer and they didn't care that it would cause a problem with draft. Not to mention that they were recommending only a "direct connect", or stub-in, type of install, rather than a full re-line, or "positive connect".

I believe you will continue to have your smoking problems until you upgrade your liner setup. I suggest using a "small-oval" section with a tee connection at the bottom, a sealed block-off plate at the lintel or damper, and rigid or flexible 6" SS liner with insulation all the way to the top of the chimney. Note: the "small oval" is a special pipe that is ovalized to accommodate 6" flues. It is 8" pipe that has been ovalized and fittings are made to adapt back to the 6" round. If you can cut out your damper and go 6" round all the way that would even be better. Use 6" round pipe and squeeze it into your oval collar and get it to 6" round as soon as possible.

Recent versions of the NFPA 211 specify that only Stainless Steel pipes may be used as interior re-line pipes when re-lining a masonry flue with a metal pipe. Use of regular steel is a bad idea because it will degrade quickly, and as mentioned, will disintegrate in a chimney fire. You will get some varying advise, some will not see a problem with using cheap snap pipe in this application. Those of use who are chimney professionals will suggest using only stainless steel. Stainless steel is safer.

Sean

awfireman said:

Hi Sean,

Thanks for the suggestions. Right now my oval flue collar is attached to an oval to round 7 inch section, then to a tee then 6 inch stove pipe up the chimney. Are you reccomending something different? Does the SS liner allow me to remove the 2 foot sections of stove pipe or does this just go on the outside. Sorry this question seems rather stupid... I am an novice at this.

Maybe you can price this out for me? I dont have many stove/hearth place here in Plymouth so maybe I can buy from you. My personal email is [email protected] if you want to relpy there.

Thanks,

Aaron

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It sounds like you are okay from the collar to the tee. But then you squeeze the 6" pipe through the damper. What I am suggesting is to change out the 6" round tee for a "Small Oval" SS tee section, then Small Oval SS pipe through the damper, the back to 6" round SS to the top. Along with a good block-off plate. An alternative is to cut the damper open to allow the 6" round SS pipe to pass through without squeezing into an oval.

does anyone have a part # for this 224ccl blower fan 2 speed , any info where I can get one FAST
I'm moving the heat with a floor fan but that blower was sweet it lasted 19yrs
I live in se Mass towards the Cape
Merry Christmas stay warm
LINK

missing link said:

does anyone have a part # for this 224ccl blower fan 2 speed , any info where I can get one FAST
I'm moving the heat with a floor fan but that blower was sweet it lasted 19yrs
I live in se Mass towards the Cape
Merry Christmas stay warm
LINK

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It's almost certainly a generic motor of some sort, I would suggest pulling it out, walking into a Grainger or similar place, dropping it on the counter and saying "I want one of these..." If they can't match it exactly, they should be able to give you something close enough to work. Essentially you will be just matching up the form factor, mounting holes, etc.

Gooserider

thanks for the reply the stove store up the street is f'n with me 4 x-tra $$$$$$$$$ I'll check things out
merry christmas my brother

I used to have the same problem with my stove. Someone suggested to open a window when first lighting the stove to reduce the negative pressure. That solved the problem of smoke backing up at first light up. Very important that you constantly clean the Cat and also open the bypass when reloading the stove. I usually open the CAT when reloading and leave it open for about 5 to 10 minutes. this minimizes the amount of moisture hitting the case in the event of not so well seasoned wood.