Harman Stove Defect

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mlwschultz said:
After burning our XXV stove for a week continuously after it was returned from the repair shop for the auger repair, there was no carbon buildup at the end of the auger tube, only in the burn pot. Scraping it out was MUCH easier. I didn't have to do any chipping of carbon!
Click to expand...

Here is a photo of my dirty stove after 1-1/2 weeks of just minor pot scrapes while burning some (crap) Eureka pellets, another subject. I vacuumed the burn pot out with (NO) scraping and as you can see, no carbon buildup around the auger tube. I think the 5 hole pot may be the source of alot of peoples complaints of squeeling noise, due to the buildup around the auger tube, causing the auger to be side loaded and possibly rubbing on the tube. Now, I will do a full cleaning, normally once a week, but this time I went alittle longer........... :cheese:
 

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Yes Dougsey, I have the 5 holes. Technician said they only made that model burn pot for just a short while. We'll see how things go..
 
I cleaned my stove this morning and put five roofing nails into the holes near the auger. I agree with an earlier poster that the heat output seems better after doing so. The nails are just a temporary fix so I am either going to braze the holes shut or purchase the newer model burn pot.
 
Looks like I lost the center two nails... After further inspection it looks like the 1.5" nails I used are too long in the center... I hope my lawn mower doesn't find them this mowing season...
I just wonder if I lost them cleaning the pot out, or if the auger/pellets pushed them out...
 
Just had a follow-up service call for our XXV after the auger repair was made a few weeks ago. We kept hearing this big clunking sound, and still had the squealing which is why we called them initially. The tech came out Saturday morning and said that the chain is slipping (the clunking sound). He said the new assembly is slightly smaller than the original and it ends up hitting a weld, which was making the gears unlevel, causing the chain to slip. He put in a couple of shims to square it up (used a piece of a nylon cable tie and a thicker piece of nylon for the other end) and we've only heard the chain slip once or twice since then & the squealing has stopped too. Just something to be aware of if you've had your stove repaired already, or to address when the repair is made. He called Harman about this & they weren't aware of the problem that they caused with the new assembly.
 
Well, technician came yesterday and essentially rebuilt my entire stove. All new mechanical parts. Completely replaced the Feed Box (and auger) and Burn Pot. Took almost 4 hours. Should be as good as new. Evidently Harman does stand behind their stoves (mine is just over a year old). No hassles and no problems. See pics.
 

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Crap... double post.
 
Wow Steve! That is serious!

Did you already have the tube mod or did they do that today?

Who is your dealer if I may ask? They took good care of you.
 
Dougsey said:
Wow Steve! That is serious!

Did you already have the tube mod or did they do that today?

Who is your dealer if I may ask? They took good care of you.
Click to expand...

No I didn't have the "Tube Mod"?? What is i? Dealer is Abundant Life in Chichester, NH. Have been very accommodating.
 
I think that clear tube is suppose to fix the smoke in hopper problem but it may have come though like that from the factory.

Lousyweather would know for sure.
 
OK. Yes he did the tube mod to the new feed box. About a 3/8" clear tube from one part of the box to the other. You can clearly see it in the photo....
 
While we are talkling about Harman Stove defects, has anyone come across this problem?
PF100 furnace. The ash is accumulating at the end of the burn pot, will not fall over into the
pan. Have to go in every 24 hours and remove the built up ash.
I have used four different pellets, but all do the same. Last year I did not have this problem.
I have cleaned everything. This one got me!!
 
Was trying to think of an easy way to patch the burn pot holes for someone that may not have access to welding equipment. Two ideas...

1 - How about drilling/tapping to a known size just slightly larger than the hole. Then insert a screw from the bottom side just long enough to come even with the surface on the top side. If the screw was a little long it could be ground/filed down flush.

2 - I found a compund to repair muffler manifolds and such that is good up to 2000deg F. Fill the holes with this??
http://www.permatex.com/products/Au...ir/Permatex_Hi-Temp_Metal_Repair_Compound.htm

Thoughts??

Great information in this thread! Thanks to all for the info. Need to have a look at mine tonight. Started having some jamming issues with the auger last night and suspect I may have the same issues. Recently lowered my burn rate and might have caused additonal carbon inside the auger tube.
 
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