I recently installed a Jotul F500. I used insulated chimney pipe which is was 12ft and then 10ft of single wall pipe inside the house. The chimney pipe is either inside the attic or a framed in chase the whole way. It is a straight shot up no turns or anything. The stove has worked perfect up until this past week we have had some cold clear weather in the low 30s to upper 20s (which I know is not that cold for a lot of you guys) but, with these high draft condtions the stove will not turn down like it should. I have checked all of my gaskets, everything is brand new. The stove works great except when it gets really clear and cold. Is there any adjustments I can make other than putting in a damper?
Any Adjusting Jotul F500??
- Thread starter johng
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I had a similar problem with my Oslo... when the wind blows my chimney turns into an industrial vacuum and my fires would burn fiercely (even damped down fully) and most of the heat seemed to disappear up the stack (the stove would also coal badly). We get days on end of 30 mph winds up here on the coast in the fall and winter. A damper is about a $7 fix and solved the excess draft issue for me. It's like having a new stove. Don't know of any other acceptable adjustments to get at the problem - perhaps others will chime in. Because I have a strong draw even w/o wind, I run the stove with the damper shut about 2/3 of the way most of the time and 3/4 or more closed when the wind blows...
WOODBUTCHER
Minister of Fire
johng1 said:
What stove temps are we talking about?
Give us an example of your run-away temps.
WB
Todd
Minister of Fire
All new EPA stoves have the air rigged so they won't close down all the way so they burn hot and clean and if you have a taller chimney than the manufactures testing lab you will probably have times when the draft will be too strong. You might be able to rig the air control if accessible so it will close down more, but most people just install a pipe damper.
Hanko
Minister of Fire
On a good load of chared wood, the stove will secondary on its own up to 700. The only way to slow it down is smaller fires. as stated before what temps are you looking at
Even my large loads on very good wood (covered 2year plus oak) I can control my stove from 400 degrees up to about 650 before shutting it down. If yours is out of control you need to either look at how high you are getting it before starting to shut down or you have huge draft.
If the second, the only two things I can see are a damper or a smaller outlet.
Chad
If the second, the only two things I can see are a damper or a smaller outlet.
Chad
Thanks Guys.
The stove will get up to 600 650 and it will pretty much stay there until the wood is burnt down some. I told my dealer I wanted a damper when I bought everything and he said I would not need it. But, I wish I would of went a head and put one in just in case I needed it. I would not say the stove is broke or defective, I just cant keep the fire down like I can when it is not so clear and cold. I did loosen the bolt that goes through the middle of the contorl lever. And it does seem to stay closed a little better. So if that does not work like I want I will just put in a damper for the occasions when I need it. I will also make smaller fires but, this really effects my burn time at night.
The stove will get up to 600 650 and it will pretty much stay there until the wood is burnt down some. I told my dealer I wanted a damper when I bought everything and he said I would not need it. But, I wish I would of went a head and put one in just in case I needed it. I would not say the stove is broke or defective, I just cant keep the fire down like I can when it is not so clear and cold. I did loosen the bolt that goes through the middle of the contorl lever. And it does seem to stay closed a little better. So if that does not work like I want I will just put in a damper for the occasions when I need it. I will also make smaller fires but, this really effects my burn time at night.
cycloxer
Minister of Fire
johng1 said:
Sounds like the stove is working like it should. This is not a stoke and smother stove. What's happening is the bloom of wood gas escaping the heated wood is burning off. That is raising the stove top temp. It doesn't sound like a damper is needed here but it probably won't hurt. Bigger splits, tightly packed will slow down the fire. Or add less wood. OTOH, do watch out for running the stove at too cool a flue temp or the flue may end up with creosote condensation from too cool flue gases.
We have a new Jotul Oslo along with new chimney --we had stovepipe damper put in and we use it most of the time otherwise all the heat goes up the flue -- Had a factory rep come to look at the ashpan door and he said use the damper - measuring from Noon on the clock being open and 3:00 being closed -we keep it at about 2:00 --works for us!!---Just don't forget to open it when loading in more wood.
Buffygirl
New Jotul Oslo Fall of 09
Buffygirl
New Jotul Oslo Fall of 09
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