seton next generation boiler rusting out

:coolhmm: :coolhmm:

I might point out that we b!tch about the failings of this style unit. And when we improve certain features there will no doubt be some unforseen side affects. But the reality is, the users know there are some definite advantages of the mass-refractory natural draft units

1)Refractory retains heat which drys wood and speeds relighting
2)Refractory temps do NOT allow creosote in combustion chamber

Innovation shall not be detered!! :smirk:[/quote]

My beef is not so much the failings of the unit but the failing of the manufacturer to build them with materials sufficient to withstand a few seasons without rebuilding them, I.E. --the seemingly recurrent theme of rotting skins. I would have been one to "test" mine with SS skins if I had not had the nuclear meltdown and my water tubes had not sagged in the middle. After this I really did not trust it to get me through the winter. If my memory serves me right didn't Sparke have a stainless skinned Greenfire? I don't remember him posting any problems he had with it. Probably so few of those sold we'll not hear from anyone, but it would be interesting to hear from them. I've said it before and I'll say it again--good solid design with the right build materials but it is beyond me how the manufacturers could not forsee/have any of the same problems posters here have had without ANY amount of testing.

1) & 2)--Agreed-Believe me I know--The ChernoAdobe Incident--T&P gauge--temp needle is in the press. side :bug: ,the garage smells of steam and really hot stuff. I open the door and it looks like I am looking into the middle of the sun :coolhmm: . The refractory and water vessel were glowing molten orange. Needless to say I did not have any creosote on those water tubes after that!! :-S

I think the overall design is sound but I think the unit still has some evolving to do. While I am very happy with my unit, I see potential for design upgrades. As I mentioned in another post - I wonder how a hex imbedded in the refractory would work. It would take care of the clean hex problem. Also, I think with a few design changes it could idle much cleaner then it does now. I have an idea that incorporates a longer flame path and buries the hex in refractory. Solving the dreaded dirty tube dilema.

I agree the manufacturers are building these units with sub par materials and design. I strongly believe this unit could be so much better. Cleaner / less wood ( although my wood consumption now isn't bad) / less maint.

I have no problems with the SS skins yet.

I have run my unit both ways - with and without storage. No question the unit runs cleaner with storage. The unit is always running in what I call clean mode. I suspect this unit is only gassifying when she is running straight out. The downfall is having to light a fresh fire every day. I am now learning to charge my tank to 170ish then turn down all my settings so the unit idles. Now the remaining wood in the unit is almost a big lump of charcoal and idles much cleaner. I have the damper on a timer and when the damper closes for good it preserves coals for hours upon hours... I love heat storage. It is nice to go to work and not worry about the boiler being full of wood with no one home and still coming home to a warm house...

I feel fortunate. I made my floor out of 1/2" plate, the front and back from 3/8" diamond plate and my sides and top are 3/16". All for a low price of $250 at a local scrap yard. Only had to wire brush the very light surface rust.

snoman how did you do the refractory.

I formed it with 2x6's on the shop floor with plastic under it. Then lifted the pieces into the stove. Then used refractory cement to hold it together. I have only one small hairline crack in the door.

sparke, I think you're on the right track here. keeping the tubes clean, as we all know, is paramount to getting the highest efficiency out of the boiler. I agree that running full bore is for most boilers the only way to get to the gasifying stage, and that is hard to do if you don't have storage or perhaps an undersized unit. That is why I'm going with storage next year. More efficiency and a cleaner running stove.

Just like you, I don't want to have to make a fire every day. I want the stove to run hard for at least 2-3 hours with a fresh load of wood, and then cycle on and off a few times during the next 8 hours or so. Idling with the wood glowing like charcoal is probably not going to dirty up the stove much. Then when you need to re-fill the stove you can just stir up the hot coals, push some up by the draft tubes and she'll fire up again easily. Repeat each day, once in the morning and once in the evening. 12 hour burn times are fine with me.

Now, we just need to figure out how to run those water tubes thru the refractory. LOL

Pat