Eleven months ago, I had a Lopi Freedom Bay installed. It has sounds...
Before firing up this late start due to a late November first freeze, I brushed and cleaned the flue. The Whistling sound happened all year long. When the wind is at least 15mph or higher, it sounds like air is being drawn out of the house. In the cold, but no wind, it sounds exactly the same when it has a good and rolling fire going. When Lopi's top damper is closed the whistle is the loudest as the fire burns. It stops if the damper is pulled open. The sliding damper has NO affect on stopping the whistling sound anytime when the Wind is blowing.
Background:
The fireplace was built with the house in 1958. The chimney has brick and mortar inside, not smooth flue sections, and flat stone matching the house on the outside of it. It extends about 4ft higher than the top ridge of the roof. When the installer tried to get the 6" elbows and 3 to 4 ft of flex pipe attached to single wall solid pipe, he couldn't get ti through the old damper opening. When he couldn't, he hammered out 4 or 5 bricks in front of the old damper shelf to make room. All the flue pipe is Stainless and the flex section lays somewhat sidewise then curves up and attaches to the solid pipe as if it was pushed down because it was too long. The stove department manager said single wall pipe was fine as it heats up the dead air in the chimney to keep the flue hot enough from building up creosote. When I brushed the flue before this year's first burn, I got out enough coarse creosote flakes that would 3/4 fill a one pound coffee can.
The chimney opening has a 1/4" thick rectangular piece of flat steel with a 6" hole cut into it for the pipe. The plate and the pipe are sealed and waterproof so far. A stainless steel diamond-wire chimney cap has four nuts that allows removal of the top for brushing and cleaning. It is held on with TapCon screws into the domed cement of the chimney as the flue pipe extends into it about 3" with a clamping collar. The firebox and the whole chimney is open all the way up to the top sealer plate. There is no sealer plate at the bottom, nor is there any insulation around the flue or behind the wide metal trim around the insert.
The "Whoomp" sound happens when the insert is fired from a cold start and when fired from a bed of red embers. After a good rolling fire has started about 20 minutes, a deep "Whoomp" sound lasts about a second or two. The somewhat loud, deep "Whoomp" sound occurs again as the insert settles into a bed of red coals. It sounds like the flue is expanding, and then later contracts.
Should there be a sideways laying of the flex flue or should it run as straight as possible out the chimney top? The wood stove department's manager is coming back to hear and try to fix these sounds. What should I know and point out to him?
Your input and experience is appreciated.
Bill
Before firing up this late start due to a late November first freeze, I brushed and cleaned the flue. The Whistling sound happened all year long. When the wind is at least 15mph or higher, it sounds like air is being drawn out of the house. In the cold, but no wind, it sounds exactly the same when it has a good and rolling fire going. When Lopi's top damper is closed the whistle is the loudest as the fire burns. It stops if the damper is pulled open. The sliding damper has NO affect on stopping the whistling sound anytime when the Wind is blowing.
Background:
The fireplace was built with the house in 1958. The chimney has brick and mortar inside, not smooth flue sections, and flat stone matching the house on the outside of it. It extends about 4ft higher than the top ridge of the roof. When the installer tried to get the 6" elbows and 3 to 4 ft of flex pipe attached to single wall solid pipe, he couldn't get ti through the old damper opening. When he couldn't, he hammered out 4 or 5 bricks in front of the old damper shelf to make room. All the flue pipe is Stainless and the flex section lays somewhat sidewise then curves up and attaches to the solid pipe as if it was pushed down because it was too long. The stove department manager said single wall pipe was fine as it heats up the dead air in the chimney to keep the flue hot enough from building up creosote. When I brushed the flue before this year's first burn, I got out enough coarse creosote flakes that would 3/4 fill a one pound coffee can.
The chimney opening has a 1/4" thick rectangular piece of flat steel with a 6" hole cut into it for the pipe. The plate and the pipe are sealed and waterproof so far. A stainless steel diamond-wire chimney cap has four nuts that allows removal of the top for brushing and cleaning. It is held on with TapCon screws into the domed cement of the chimney as the flue pipe extends into it about 3" with a clamping collar. The firebox and the whole chimney is open all the way up to the top sealer plate. There is no sealer plate at the bottom, nor is there any insulation around the flue or behind the wide metal trim around the insert.
The "Whoomp" sound happens when the insert is fired from a cold start and when fired from a bed of red embers. After a good rolling fire has started about 20 minutes, a deep "Whoomp" sound lasts about a second or two. The somewhat loud, deep "Whoomp" sound occurs again as the insert settles into a bed of red coals. It sounds like the flue is expanding, and then later contracts.
Should there be a sideways laying of the flex flue or should it run as straight as possible out the chimney top? The wood stove department's manager is coming back to hear and try to fix these sounds. What should I know and point out to him?
Your input and experience is appreciated.
Bill
