Slow ignition on Harmon PC45

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jadero

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We have a 2-year old Harmon PC-45 with 4" vent stack that goes up 3-feet then out and an outside air intake. This is the first real use in the winter and everything works great when it's warm outside, but the colder it gets, the longer it takes to light. Now, at -30 Celsius, it takes longer than the ignition cycle allows for and so it just quits trying to light. Oh, I should tell you that in Saskatchewan in the winter, 'warm' means 'above -15C' (5F), 'cool' is colder than that, but not yet -30C (-22F), and cold is -30C and colder. -40C (-40F) is not exactly common, but we get 10 days or so every winter.

Is this a known issue? I'm also going to phone the new dealer (old one is out of business), but I've learned from the last one to take everything with a grain of salt. This is our primary source of heat, so failure to restart at 2 am is a problem. If we were living out there, which we plan to do when we retire, failure to restart when we run to town for supplies could be a disaster (frozen plumbing is not fun at all!).

Other information that might help troubleshoot the problem:
* cleaning: obviously, the further into the season we go, the more likely it is that we need to clean things up a bit, but we've used less than 500 lbs so far this season and I started the season with a thorough cleaning (at least I thought it was!). It could be that the ignition is taking longer not because of the dropping temperature, but because of some kind of build-up.
* frequency of use: this is at our cabin and we only go there on week-ends, so even the inside temp is way down there when we go to fire up. Note however, that even after the place has warmed up, a restart is challenging.
* I can see the igniter is a good bright red and it seems like a pellet or two will start to glow, but then the feed motor cycles and it seems like it has to start over. This makes me wonder if it is even possible to self-ignite at those temperatures.
* the fire has never been as clean as we were led to expect. The glass door gets dirty at the top and down 2/3 the way on both sides by the time we've gone through the first 40 lb bag. The firebrick in the back is always dark. That said, we rarely smell anything outside except during start up.
* Before I gave up and just packed up and came home last week-end, the feed motor light was lighting, but the feed motor was not running. This seems to be an intermittent problem that may be associated with draft problems, although I seldom see the 5-blink code except after ignition failure. Test mode does work, so I don't think we've got a motor problem.
* Frosty intake: The outside of the fresh air intake is covered in frost, right from the wall all the way to the stove. I don't know if that was there while the stove was running, because I only noticed it while I was trying to get the stove lit. If there is frozen condensation inside, especially where it can interfere with moving parts, then that can't be good.
* When it didn't light on its own when we got down there, I lit it manually. That worked fine and it ran for about 5 hours before dying. After that, even a manual light wouldn't work because the feed motor wouldn't actually run. As I mentioned earlier, the feed motor works fine in test mode.

One of my biggest concerns right now is that there is something inherent to the design that makes it unsuitable for use in the Saskatchewan winter. This stove is no good to us if it won't reliably self-ignite at -40.
 
i have similar issues with my PC61A. It seems to be occurring with these crappy extra long pellets. I had to turn up my feed speed all the way, which is fine because it's only a limiter and the stove will only feed whats necessary when necessary but at least you're not limiting it. What i'm still trying to troubleshoot - n maybe you can too - is that when my stove fails to light in the 36 minute ignition window (shown by 5 blinks on the status light) i don't think i have a handlefull of pellets that failed to light, i just have ash. This doesn't make sense because when it ignites it usually feeds a bunch of pellets in and then lights them, so i would assume that if it failed to light i should see a hand full of fresh pellets in the burn pot that failed to light. I don't believe i'm seeing this but i'm going to pay more attention because seeing only ash in a failed burn pot would mean that, um, it didn't feed pellets to burn and then got behind on it's cycle.

OH and my glass was also getting real real dirty until i cranked my feed rate up to 6 from 3. now the glass doesn't get as dirty.

anyway, food for thought. good luck
 
you are hooked to Outside air in that cold temp? that could be the issue right there (sorry double post, hit the button B4 done) maybe the little air pump has to work a little harder to get her goin...
 
does it work OK when manually lit?
 
I would definitely first try disconnecting the outside air kit. That air might just be too cold and the ESP never senses the exhaust at a temp appropriate for the "blow torch" to kick in at startup. Even the indoor air might be too cold as well as you stated. I've had a few false starts with corn but never with good pellets. My dealer said an OAK wasnt necessary, my house has insulation from the 70's and is plenty drafty already. The only time I have a slow startup with pellets is when the holes in the burnpot are all clogged up with carbon deposits. Maybe open all with a scratch awl. Also try removing the burnpot and make sure the "wind tunnel" below it is not full of fines. Just some comments from a fellow pc45er.
 
ramdez said:
i have similar issues with my PC61A. It seems to be occurring with these crappy extra long pellets. I had to turn up my feed speed all the way, which is fine because it's only a limiter and the stove will only feed whats necessary when necessary but at least you're not limiting it. What i'm still trying to troubleshoot - n maybe you can too - is that when my stove fails to light in the 36 minute ignition window (shown by 5 blinks on the status light) i don't think i have a handlefull of pellets that failed to light, i just have ash. This doesn't make sense because when it ignites it usually feeds a bunch of pellets in and then lights them, so i would assume that if it failed to light i should see a hand full of fresh pellets in the burn pot that failed to light. I don't believe i'm seeing this but i'm going to pay more attention because seeing only ash in a failed burn pot would mean that, um, it didn't feed pellets to burn and then got behind on it's cycle.

OH and my glass was also getting real real dirty until i cranked my feed rate up to 6 from 3. now the glass doesn't get as dirty.

anyway, food for thought. good luck

I have no problems actually feeding pellets as long as the motor will turn. The motor always turns at the start of the cycle, but occasionally stops part way in, so it typically stops with a load of pellets ready to ignite. I have not changed brands of pellets (Firemaster is the only brand available here) and the pellets don't seem to be what I would call long pellets. Very few are longer than 1/4" and most are shorter.

I'll try tinkering with feed rate (currently set at 4) to see if that helps with clean burn.
Thanks
 
poconoman said:
IMO, it's all about a clean stove and QUALITY pellets. Ignition happens NOW with Barefoot. (if available where you are)

Only TWICE, so far has the stove stopped.

1. Ran out of pellets
2. Inferior pellets.

Other than that, she works dandy. :)

Thanks. Firemaster is the only brand I've seen around here and they've worked fine until now. I'm tending toward dirty stove or bad draft at this point.
 
summit said:
you are hooked to Outside air in that cold temp? that could be the issue right there (sorry double post, hit the button B4 done) maybe the little air pump has to work a little harder to get her goin...

Yes, I'm hooked to outside air at that temp :) It's required by code when installed in a mobile home and it fits with dealer recommendations (although my experience with the previous dealer makes me a little cautious when taking dealer advice).
ron
 
trylon said:
I would definitely first try disconnecting the outside air kit. That air might just be too cold and the ESP never senses the exhaust at a temp appropriate for the "blow torch" to kick in at startup. Even the indoor air might be too cold as well as you stated. I've had a few false starts with corn but never with good pellets. My dealer said an OAK wasnt necessary, my house has insulation from the 70's and is plenty drafty already. The only time I have a slow startup with pellets is when the holes in the burnpot are all clogged up with carbon deposits. Maybe open all with a scratch awl. Also try removing the burnpot and make sure the "wind tunnel" below it is not full of fines. Just some comments from a fellow pc45er.

I'm heading out this week-end to act on all the advice I get from here and from the dealer (assuming he calls back). The only thing I won't do at this time is disconnect outside air. First, they're getting stickier around here with code compliance and code requires that solid fuel appliances be fitted with OAK when installed in a mobile home. And you're right about the inside being just as cold during startup. Based on other searches and discussions, I'm leaning toward dirty stove or bad draft, probably the latter.

Thanks
ron
 
I think weak ignition is part of the Harmon package... I just had my accentra fs overflow unburned pellets into the bun pot the other day as the ignitor was not lighting them. I think once the begin to overflow, you need to turn everythin off and remove all pellets from the pot and start over, it seems whenever you switch to a different auger speed it starts the cycle over with a long startup run of pellets...
good pellets like Oaks or Barefoots in conjunction with a clean stove will hopefully solve most of your probs. Your stove shouldn't be going out, at least on stove temp, when you self ignite.
Anka
 
Thanks everybody for your help and advice. I did get in touch with the dealer and he said that it sounded like the air pump had failed, but that it might also be the igniter. In his experience, cold weather (-30C and below) has little or no impact on the ignition cycle. He got new parts sent out to me the next day so everything was ready for my week-end repairs.

He also told me how to test the air pump--if you pull the hose off while it's running, the air flow should be very strong. When I went to test it, it was obvious that it wasn't even running (no vibration at all), which was confirmed by the complete lack of air flow. I then tried to start the stove and despite the balmy temperature (-10C), it wouldn't light on it's own. I put the new pump on and a few minutes later I had a fire, confirming that the igniter is sound.

At CA$350 for the air pump, this isn't exactly a cheap fix, but according to my records the stove is still under warranty. It was purchased in Aug of 2008 and the warranty states that electrical and mechanical components are warranted for 3 years. Given our dependence on this for heat, I will be asking for another air pump to be sent out instead of asking for a refund. I'm slowly building up a collection of spare parts. I already have a combustion blower and now I've got an air pump and igniter. Come spring, I'll pull the combustion blower off and see if I can get a replacement motor from a local appliance repair depot or whether there is more to it that requires a Harmon assembly. I guess some sensors would also be a good idea.

I should add that this new dealer is much much much better than the old one. Country Hearth and Home in Yorkton and Springside, SK.
 
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