New Oslo plugs up the stove pipe in record time

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Off Grid

New Member
Jan 5, 2010
2
Western Montana

I recently bought a Jotul Oslo and have been using it for about three weeks. For the past fifteen years I've been using an Englander which I "modified" by pulling out the catalyst (because it was clogged up and my house filled with smoke every time I'd open it) and took out the fire brick on the sides (because I like a stove to put off HEAT. It was a sweet stove, and a big step above the barrel stove I'd been using for a few years. I'd figured it out using every kind of wood available in these parts (conifers mostly) and could get away with cleaning the pipe about once a year. I kept it clean on a daily basis by burning a really hot fire every couple of days and then whacking the stove pipe and all the junk would tumble into the fire box and burn up.
But I added an addition onto my house this year and decided I'd need a bigger stove. I didn't want to go with a catalyst stove for various reasons and ended up buying an Oslo because I wanted a cast iron stove that could put out some HEAT! The first time I fired it up I was mesmerized. The huge glass door and the top fire were great. My son and I sat and watched the fire for hours, and I LOVED the stove. But the love affair didn't last so long. Given that I'd paid a small fortune for the stove I expected it to do at least as well as my old Englander, which the salesman referred to as "terribly inefficient." He had assured me that the Oslo would burn much less wood and do it much more cleanly. First thing I noticed was how unbelievably long it took to warm the house up. With the old stove I could do it in 20 minutes. The Oslo took more than an hour, mostly because I'm afraid to heat it too quickly and crack the iron. Secondly, I couldn't get it to burn all night, which I'd been able to do with my "inefficient" Englander, which had a smaller fire box. Thirdly, I can't load it plumb full because the wood will hang up on stuff around the pipes on the top of the fire box. But I can put much longer wood in, so that kind of equals out. Lastly, the stove began to smoke like a fiend when I'd start it after it went out over night. I mean SMOKE! I've never had a stove put out the smoke like that except for the Englander before I removed the plugged catalyst. So tonight after work I climbed up on the roof and found the pipe was nearly solid with soot! And because of the reburn system in the firebox I had to disconnect the pipe and try and get the soot to fall into a bucket when I swept the pipe. OH BOY, that worked well: The bucket fell over and the soot went everywhere. It was this brownish soot, unlike anything I've ever run into. I didn't smell as bad as the creosotey black stuff I'm used to. I'm thinking of putting my Englander back into service after this winter, but have a wood shed full of 22 inch wood that wouldn't fit in it! So I'll have to get through this winter.
Anyway, my question is: how the heck do I burn this stupid stove so that it doesn't totally plug up the stove pipe within three weeks, and still get a reasonable burn time? Can I burn it really hot and hope to clear the pipe? Will the cast iron crack, or the big glass door bust? Also what's the best way to catch all the crap that comes out of the pipe without pouring it all over the floor?
Thanks.
 
If that stove clogs the stove pipe in only 3 three weeks. you must have green wood and you must be burning to low. let it rip that stove can handle a very hot fire! If that was normal,Jotul would not be one of the highest selling stoves in the world! witch they are! Are you sure your pipe was clean when you changed stoves?? how many bends or elbows in your run?
 
I agree absolutely that your wood is not dry enough and your fire not hot enough. We burn (for twenty plus years) an old cast iron "Boss" stove with enough draft to launch it to the moon in our PA home. We can burn anything, no matter how wet, and damp it down on the pipe when necessary. We burn it hot, hotter and hottest all of the time and keep the outdoor masonry chimney clean. My husband made it a baffle because it did not have one and we've replaced the firebrick once.

And then we put in a Jotul here in the WV home, where we will ultimately retire. I had to relearn everything I thought I knew about burning wood.....well, I am here and still learning.

When you get truly dry wood and fire your new stove up, you will be very pleased with it and the heat production you'll get. Remember Kermit the Frog said, "It's not easy to be green."

Read this site and find many others learning these things and about wood seasoning.
 
Forget all the crap you know about burning old school stoves, it does not apply. Research this site, then follow what some of the wise men have said. I took out a coffee can of creosote last year after 24/7 burning all winter, I'm by no means an expert, but I ain't a chump either.
 
Educate yourself on how to use an EPA rated Jotul.

Otherwise, sell it, and go back to what you are comfortable with.
 
My F500 is midway through its 3rd year. The chimney was cleaned once after each season and I might have got a paint can full of creosote each cleaning. I can honestly say guy you are doing something very wrong.
 
Wet wood for sure, especially with the comments about having to rip out all the parts of the old stove that were designed for efficiency just to be able to run it.
 
FWWARDEN said:
Forget all the crap you know about burning old school stoves, it does not apply. Research this site, then follow what some of the wise men have said. I took out a coffee can of creosote last year after 24/7 burning all winter, I'm by no means an expert, but I ain't a chump either.

Off Grid - I agree with FWWARDEN -- I've been burning for 30+years and put in a new Oslo this year-like you - All you have learned from the past is a hindrance - try to forget it and start all over -- watch the Vanessa video and read all you can about the Oslo - like you I'm not in love with this stove and struggling to get heat from it but I know it will come with time and endurance. In reading some of the posts from years past - lots of people struggle at first so - be patient and keep trying.


Buffygirl
Oslo - New in Fall of 09
Retired VC Cat
 
I face the same disillusions that you you did when I "upgraded" to an Oslo.
Not getting nearly enough heat, unclean burns. etc.......

What I've learned.....

Don't use the ash tray, it's counter-productive & doesn't promote proper coaling.
Cover the slots w/ a piece of sheet metal & scoop-out the ashes as needed.
Also, I've found out that the Olso is rather draft-sensative. Minimize horizontal runs
on your flue, use OAK if located in basement.

In the end, it didn't work for us, so we replaced it with a cheapo, hardware store stove
that ended-up out-performing it.

I hope some of my suggestions help.....
 
Um... welcome to the forum.

Everything in your post screams 'wet wood'.

Especially these statements:
"New Oslo plugs up the stove pipe in record time... I recently bought a Jotul Oslo and have been using it for about three weeks.
"pulling out the catalyst (because it was clogged up and my house filled with smoke every time I'd open it)"
"I've never had a stove put out the smoke like that except for the Englander before I removed the plugged catalyst."

And these two statements were odd:
"took out the fire brick on the sides because I like a stove to put off HEAT"
"mostly because I'm afraid to heat it too quickly and crack the iron."
 
Rob From Wisconsin said:
I face the same disillusions that you you did when I "upgraded" to an Oslo.
Not getting nearly enough heat, unclean burns. etc.......

What I've learned.....

Don't use the ash tray, it's counter-productive & doesn't promote proper coaling.
Cover the slots w/ a piece of sheet metal & scoop-out the ashes as needed.
Also, I've found out that the Olso is rather draft-sensative. Minimize horizontal runs
on your flue, use OAK if located in basement.

In the end, it didn't work for us, so we replaced it with a cheapo, hardware store stove
that ended-up out-performing it.

I hope some of my suggestions help.....

I have a 20" or so horizontal run, others have more than 36" that I have spoken to on this forum - no problems.

At the end of the day, if your wood is dry, your liner long enough and insulated, I fail to see how anyone can not get heat out.
 
Sell the stove immediately and go buy a big old Vermont Castings Defiant. The Oslo is too advanced for your setup.
 

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cycloxer said:
Sell the stove immediately and go buy a big old Vermont Castings Defiant. The Oslo is too advanced for your setup.


Says you running you stove with the bigger vented European kit ;-P

I have plugged all of my vents with furnace cement - still got splits in there from November.
 
Off Grid. Welcome to the forum. Stoves don't plug up flues, they can't chose the way they are set up or the fuel that is put in them. After a thorough flue cleaning, give that stove some dry wood. Borrow from a friend or get some from the grocery store. If the wood is dry, it is going to burn great. And dry wood will put out a lot more of what you are looking for - heat. Green wood is putting out steam as you burn it. That is cooling down the fire and the flue gases. This is the reason for the plugging.

I suspect this is also the reason for the Englander catalyst clogging. Sounds like it's long past time to change wood gathering habits. Burning dry wood will give you a lot more heat and therefore save wood. Most of us get our wood a year or two in advance, some 3 years. That has several benefits. Nice dry wood for easy, hot, clean burns, clean flues and plenty of reserves in case of a really cold year, illness, etc.
 
I will gladly come pick up your Oslo...... email me.

Shari
 
CarbonNeutral said:
Says you running you stove with the bigger vented European kit ;-P I have plugged all of my vents with furnace cement - still got splits in there from November.

Are you making fun of my Euro jeans? :bug: I like big air. What can I say. I'm a pyro.
 
Off Grid said:

...I "modified" by pulling out the catalyst (because it was clogged up and my house filled with smoke every time I'd open it)....
... then whacking the stove pipe and all the junk would tumble into the fire box and burn up.
... the stove began to smoke like a fiend when I'd start it after it went out over night. I mean SMOKE! I've never had a stove put out the smoke like that except for the Englander before I removed the plugged catalyst.
....
These things could be signs of wet wood, as others have mentioned. However, it could also be poor draft or an improperly sized flue. Make sure the flue is tall enough to create proper draft and sealed correctly at all the joints. Poor draft may also occur in a basement installation, or an extremely air-tight home. Also verify the flue is the correct size for the stove...an oversize flue will draft poorly and encourage creosote build-up.

Fuel and flue need to be correct before you can diagnose if the problem is the stove or how it's being operated. Otherwise it's like blaming your car engine for bad gas and a broken muffler.
 
#1 Welcome to the forum "OffGrid"
#2 "Rob from Wisconsin" I'll have to strongly disagree about your ash pan suggestions.

I've been burning my Oslo since October 2004. I've been a wood burner since the 80's.
I've run many different types of stoves.....( I won't list them all) but had my share.
We have 4 Jotul's in the family. (2) F500's an F600 and an F3cb...no problems
I've never had to remove a cat that was plugged, just replaced due to age. There's only one reason for plugged cats....... I know these new EPA stoves like seasoned wood, but so did the VC cat I ran back in the late 80's

First off, what's the height of your stack, explain your stack/chimney setup in detail from the rear of your stove up to the top (including your cap)
Second, how long has your wood been split/stacked?

After loading, I'll run my Oslo up around 550-625 wide open (get it nice and charred)
Then I'll knock the air down 75% more for a nice even burn.
If I leave the front air control wide open for ANY length of time I will end up over firing it.


Hope this helps
WoodButcher
 
WOODBUTCHER said:
#1 Welcome to the forum "OffGrid"
#2 "Rob from Wisconsin" I'll have to strongly disagree about your ash pan suggestions.

I've been burning my Oslo since October 2004. I've been a wood burner since the 80's.
I've run many different types of stoves.....( I won't list them all) but had my share.
We have 4 Jotul's in the family. (2) F500's an F600 and an F3cb...no problems
I've never had to remove a cat that was plugged, just replaced due to age. There's only one reason for plugged cats....... I know these new EPA stoves like seasoned wood, but so did the VC cat I ran back in the late 80's

First off, what's the height of your stack, explain your stack/chimney setup in detail from the rear of your stove up to the top (including your cap)
Second, how long has your wood been split/stacked?

After loading, I'll run my Oslo up around 550-625 wide open (get it nice and charred)
Then I'll knock the air down 75% more for a nice even burn.
If I leave the front air control wide open for ANY length of time I will end up over firing it.


Hope this helps
WoodButcher

Great, glad to hear you had success, but more than a couple of us didn't.
These "remedies" came from other Oslo users, not myself.
Same issues...as I stated above.
Maybe it was a year/model issue for us.
Person I sold my Oslo to had similar problems as I had (corresponded w/ him).
Either way, changing my stove drastically changed my peformance for the better.

Like I said before, it seems to be a bit picky on draft/flue conditions, more so than other
stoves I've owned.
 
I burned an Oslo in my showroom on Long Island for 6 years or so. Of the whole Jotul line it was the nicest to burn. We burned 2 year old dry wood. I would light the fire in the morning with a few fire starters and immediately pack the stove full of wood. Id set the air on high and go about opening the rest of the showroom. 30 minutes later the wood was fully engulfed and charred and I would shut the air down 100%. The stove would maintain a fire and a 500 degree surface temp for about 7 hours and still be at 300 degress after 10 hours when we would close. Glass also stayed clean, chimney had a coffee cup full of creosote every year (only burning 10 hours a day 7 days per week) I used the ash pan feature and enjoyed it. I also never had a customer complain about the Oslo and we sold 30-40 per year of only that model Jotul. (we would get complaints on the Oslo and all our stoves from time to time, but I would go to the customers home with seasoned wood and re educate them on how to burn an EPA Certified stove)

Just my experience
 
Hmmm. 20 replys and no word from off grid. Guess we told him a thing or two, bad wood burner, bad
 
Hanko said:
Hmmm. 20 replys and no word from off grid. Guess we told him a thing or two, bad wood burner, bad

I think Bagreen had it short and sweet.

"I suspect this is also the reason for the Englander catalyst clogging. Sounds like it’s long past time to change wood gathering habits."

and so did you:

bad wood burner, bad

enuff said.........
 
Franks said:
I burned an Oslo in my showroom on Long Island for 6 years or so. Of the whole Jotul line it was the nicest to burn. We burned 2 year old dry wood. I would light the fire in the morning with a few fire starters and immediately pack the stove full of wood. Id set the air on high and go about opening the rest of the showroom. 30 minutes later the wood was fully engulfed and charred and I would shut the air down 100%. The stove would maintain a fire and a 500 degree surface temp for about 7 hours and still be at 300 degress after 10 hours when we would close. Glass also stayed clean, chimney had a coffee cup full of creosote every year (only burning 10 hours a day 7 days per week) I used the ash pan feature and enjoyed it. I also never had a customer complain about the Oslo and we sold 30-40 per year of only that model Jotul. (we would get complaints on the Oslo and all our stoves from time to time, but I would go to the customers home with seasoned wood and re educate them on how to burn an EPA Certified stove)

Just my experience

Wow I gotta season me some two year old fuel....There is no way I can even think of holding 500 degrees for 7 hours! That is mighty impressive, i'm lucky to get three hours with sustained temps like that :long:
 
I got two year old oak, and i cant either. Maybe ILL add some pop bottle rockets. Think that will do it
 
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