7 degrees & windy in New England, Austroflamm Integra II fills house with smoke (again)..
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I can't say if the problem came on suddenly since the malfunction is intermittent. I noticed that the stove was smoking out the house on startup one day when the combustion fan completely shut down during the startup cycle, but I thought it was a freak occurrence. Several days later, I noticed that the shutdown also occurred at 50%. Since then, the problem has reoccurred at 35% and 20%, but requires extended run times for a malfunction at lower temperatures. I can't guarantee that its a bad main board, but the problems are too erratic (what else would intermittently shut down & restart combustion and convection blowers at high temps?)... The shop won't replace the board because Distributor will not reimburse the shop if the board tests out OK. The repair would be easier if the unit would just completely fail, but after the unit is shut off, it runs OK for many hours. My six videos showing multiple malfunction have been forwarded by the shop to the Distributor.
The stove is off - it overheated several nights ago after the combustion fans shut off (intermittently) with the stove running at 50%. It appears something may have melted behind the steel baffles. I will no longer endanger my family or children with this unit. It is shut down indefinitely until it is repaired.
Ed
The stove is off - it overheated several nights ago after the combustion fans shut off (intermittently) with the stove running at 50%. It appears something may have melted behind the steel baffles. I will no longer endanger my family or children with this unit. It is shut down indefinitely until it is repaired.
Ed
summit
Minister of Fire
check the low limit switch on the exhaust: if its crapping out, then the stove will shut down like this... I have had several Rika switches that literally fell into two pieces when I removed them to check them... Often times, when the switch is closed, if it is bad you can shake it and hear the pieces rattling around.
Summit you are correct, this is one of the first items I would recommend to test if it works correctly.
It is even mentioned in the manual, see below...... l
There are quite a lot of open items or inconsistencies here, about which we don't know
We also have not heard back about the cleaning steps done on the stove.
What did the dealer do????? just look at it after the first repair call.....
Thank you Pelletfan and Summit:
Pelletfan - do you have a diagnostic manual on this stove?
Summit - Would a low limt switch be able to intermittently turn off and restart the combustion blower, convention blower and auger on a "hot" running Austroflamm without triggering an error code on the board?
The dealer came for a service call on Tuesday and adjusted the hopper lid switch that was "tripping too low" (for $95) - that didn't solve the problem. The shop doesn't want to start changing parts until they are "sure what is wrong" or the Distributor authorizes a new control board..
I cleaned the stove completely (even though its only burned 4 tons since new) - including the air intake sensor, the combustion fan/housing and the rear exhaust tube and brushing out everything from the combustion blower to the vent cap.. I haven't checked the pressure switch or the high limit switches (though the shop didn't seem to believe they were the issue)- none of these parts have triggered an error code on the display that would indicate a shutdown.
The shop called this afternoon and gave me the sequence to reboot/reset the motherboard. I completed that reset several hours ago and I'm watching it burn. I have to leave the house for a few hours and won't run the stove unsupervised while my family sleeps, so I'll update everyone later.
Thanks for the feedback.
Pelletfan - do you have a diagnostic manual on this stove?
Summit - Would a low limt switch be able to intermittently turn off and restart the combustion blower, convention blower and auger on a "hot" running Austroflamm without triggering an error code on the board?
The dealer came for a service call on Tuesday and adjusted the hopper lid switch that was "tripping too low" (for $95) - that didn't solve the problem. The shop doesn't want to start changing parts until they are "sure what is wrong" or the Distributor authorizes a new control board..
I cleaned the stove completely (even though its only burned 4 tons since new) - including the air intake sensor, the combustion fan/housing and the rear exhaust tube and brushing out everything from the combustion blower to the vent cap.. I haven't checked the pressure switch or the high limit switches (though the shop didn't seem to believe they were the issue)- none of these parts have triggered an error code on the display that would indicate a shutdown.
The shop called this afternoon and gave me the sequence to reboot/reset the motherboard. I completed that reset several hours ago and I'm watching it burn. I have to leave the house for a few hours and won't run the stove unsupervised while my family sleeps, so I'll update everyone later.
Thanks for the feedback.
the reset of motherboard is good because it gets rid of wrong board settings if they exist.
Get your dealer moving a little bit faster on your case. (sorry I'm from NY-and we don't have that much patience) You did not buy your stove in a discount place.
Did you have a chance to check the air-sensor on the stove????
I have some tech stuff for the Integra II but in your case, I would not start changing factory settings.
The factory settings are quite good and I find no need to change them. These are more settings to improve performance of stove which does not apply to your case.
With your stove one has to find the reason for the shut downs. I you want them I can send them to you (PM)
Something on the sidelines, are you using a power protector??? (for stove) and or do you have a Smoke/CO2 close to the stove working.
THE ROOSTER
Feeling the Heat
Dropped to 4* last night, and highs only expected to be in the 20's for the next seven days... Glad I've only burned 6 bags as of today
Update -
I reset the motherboard on Sunday morning and everything appeared OK until Monday morning. After allowing the hopper to almost empty, I filled the hopper with three bags of pellets and cleaned the firepot. The stove began shutting down the both blowers and began an endless cycle of high blower - low blower (both combustion and convection), virtually permitting the fire to go out before feeding more pellets. This went on for 30 minutes before I shut it down and went to work. (Yes, I was late to work again because of my stove)...
The air sensor was inspected and cleaned - used a compressed air can for electronics to make sure everything was good.
Yes, a surge suppressors is used and fire /carbon monoxide sensors are hardwired nearby. I installed new hard-wire combined sensors throughout the house this summer (including near the stove) and retained the previous battery powered units in the basement as well.
Called the stove shop (again)...
I reset the motherboard on Sunday morning and everything appeared OK until Monday morning. After allowing the hopper to almost empty, I filled the hopper with three bags of pellets and cleaned the firepot. The stove began shutting down the both blowers and began an endless cycle of high blower - low blower (both combustion and convection), virtually permitting the fire to go out before feeding more pellets. This went on for 30 minutes before I shut it down and went to work. (Yes, I was late to work again because of my stove)...
The air sensor was inspected and cleaned - used a compressed air can for electronics to make sure everything was good.
Yes, a surge suppressors is used and fire /carbon monoxide sensors are hardwired nearby. I installed new hard-wire combined sensors throughout the house this summer (including near the stove) and retained the previous battery powered units in the basement as well.
Called the stove shop (again)...
In reading through the threads of your posts, I see some possible resolutions:
First, in the list of where you show your stove being on the FU1 setting, have you tried changing it to FU2? Sounds like your stove is a candidate for the reason why that setting was created. If you have not tried that then you should. There is lots of documentation out there that eludes to this and the reasons why you would.
Second, when you cleaned your stove, did you remove the clean-out access plate on the back of the combustion chamber and clean that area out? This is a roughly 4" round plate on the control board side of the stove and you can only get to it by taking off both of the right side panels. This area will hold a lot of ash and if not cleaned out periodically it will plug up your stove. There are four air passages behind the baffles that exit to this chamber. If those passages get plugged or almost plugged, the stove will starve for air.
Third, when you removed the fan, is it possible you damaged the gasket material and you have an air leak? If this is the case your stove will be sucking in air at the exhaust exit point instead of the air intake and none of that air will be going through the burn pot.
Based upon your software version (determined to be at least 1.33 since you have FU1/FU2 options) if you had an issue with the high limit switch you would be seeing an ER2. If an error with the low limit it would be ER0. I don't think you are having an issue with either of those sensors if you don't see either of those two errors. Both sensors are self resetting and don't need to be replaced if they trigger. The low limit is closed when the stove is hot, and opens when it gets below about 100 degrees (if it's open the stove is too cold to run so it will shutdown). The high sensor is normally closed all the time but will open at somewhere well over 200 degrees. If that sensors opens it will also cause an eventual shutdown but the stove will have to stay running long enough to open the low limit - this could take a couple of hours depending upon how hot the stove was when the high limit opened.
Are you seeing either an ER4 or a flashing display any time prior to the stove error'ing out? Do you have an insert or a free standing and what does the vent configuration look like (3" or 4" rigid or flex, any angles such as 45's or 90's, both horizontal and vertical lengths, etc...) It would be helpful to know for sure what software version you do have and your serial number. Knowing answers to these questions might help me get you going in the right direction. I am certainly no expert, but I do know a lot about the newer RIKA pellet stoves.
First, in the list of where you show your stove being on the FU1 setting, have you tried changing it to FU2? Sounds like your stove is a candidate for the reason why that setting was created. If you have not tried that then you should. There is lots of documentation out there that eludes to this and the reasons why you would.
Second, when you cleaned your stove, did you remove the clean-out access plate on the back of the combustion chamber and clean that area out? This is a roughly 4" round plate on the control board side of the stove and you can only get to it by taking off both of the right side panels. This area will hold a lot of ash and if not cleaned out periodically it will plug up your stove. There are four air passages behind the baffles that exit to this chamber. If those passages get plugged or almost plugged, the stove will starve for air.
Third, when you removed the fan, is it possible you damaged the gasket material and you have an air leak? If this is the case your stove will be sucking in air at the exhaust exit point instead of the air intake and none of that air will be going through the burn pot.
Based upon your software version (determined to be at least 1.33 since you have FU1/FU2 options) if you had an issue with the high limit switch you would be seeing an ER2. If an error with the low limit it would be ER0. I don't think you are having an issue with either of those sensors if you don't see either of those two errors. Both sensors are self resetting and don't need to be replaced if they trigger. The low limit is closed when the stove is hot, and opens when it gets below about 100 degrees (if it's open the stove is too cold to run so it will shutdown). The high sensor is normally closed all the time but will open at somewhere well over 200 degrees. If that sensors opens it will also cause an eventual shutdown but the stove will have to stay running long enough to open the low limit - this could take a couple of hours depending upon how hot the stove was when the high limit opened.
Are you seeing either an ER4 or a flashing display any time prior to the stove error'ing out? Do you have an insert or a free standing and what does the vent configuration look like (3" or 4" rigid or flex, any angles such as 45's or 90's, both horizontal and vertical lengths, etc...) It would be helpful to know for sure what software version you do have and your serial number. Knowing answers to these questions might help me get you going in the right direction. I am certainly no expert, but I do know a lot about the newer RIKA pellet stoves.
I tried setting two this past weekend.. Same problem.
Yes. Cleaned completely including the back passage.. Stove only had 3-4 tons since new, it was virtually clean.
I'll replace that gasket - though it came off undamaged. Stove had the same problem before and after the cleaning. Also, no explanation for the groaning noise coming out of the convection fan when it cycles endlessly between high to low until it is shutdown.. I have given 6 videos of this to the stove shop to be forwarded to the manufacturer/distributor(?). Even if the unit had been clogged, why would it shut itself down hot without a cooldown cycle?
Shuts down all blowers while stove is hot as hell (with a pot full of glowing embers) while there is an active flame (not like when the unit needs a good cleaning after a few weeks) and begins to dump smoke in the house. With the exception of the one time it ran out of pellets, I have never had an error code on this stove.
Software version 1.36... No error code. It is a freestanding - serial number #30384(i'll double check that later).
Thanks
Ed
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Ed,
Perhaps you have two broken limit switches or they are loose.
Just make certain the stove is off and unplugged before checking them as there can be 120 volts of good ole shocking 'tricity in use there.
Perhaps you have two broken limit switches or they are loose.
Just make certain the stove is off and unplugged before checking them as there can be 120 volts of good ole shocking 'tricity in use there.
sinnian
Minister of Fire
Not that this will solve the problem with the stove (sorry), but if you have adequate draft (read rise) then you should not be getting any smoke in the house unless something is blocked. Again, this won't help with the stove issues, but you may want to add on to the height to make sure you have a good draft.
Ed,
one thing you don't mention in your reply is if you see a flashing display before the stove shuts down. In v1.36 the ER4 code was removed and replaced with a flashing display but the same trigger would cause the flashing. That trigger is a disruption of airflow. If the condition occurs, the auger will shut down for up to 2-minutes. If the condition can be resolved within that time auger feed will resume, if it can't then either an ER3 will occur or the stove will cool down enough to trigger a shutdown. Regardless of how the shutdown is initiated, the full shut down cycle is 8-minutes long once it starts. That includes a 1-minute initiation, a 2-minute cleaning, and a 5-minute cool down. In an ER4 or flashing display condition, the fan will ramp up and sound erratic.
You didn't describe your vent configuration. This could be a factor.
Have you tried the calling the importer for help. They may be able to assist as well.
one thing you don't mention in your reply is if you see a flashing display before the stove shuts down. In v1.36 the ER4 code was removed and replaced with a flashing display but the same trigger would cause the flashing. That trigger is a disruption of airflow. If the condition occurs, the auger will shut down for up to 2-minutes. If the condition can be resolved within that time auger feed will resume, if it can't then either an ER3 will occur or the stove will cool down enough to trigger a shutdown. Regardless of how the shutdown is initiated, the full shut down cycle is 8-minutes long once it starts. That includes a 1-minute initiation, a 2-minute cleaning, and a 5-minute cool down. In an ER4 or flashing display condition, the fan will ramp up and sound erratic.
You didn't describe your vent configuration. This could be a factor.
Have you tried the calling the importer for help. They may be able to assist as well.
No flashing display or error codes.
I cleaned the stovepipe tonight and it was still clean - no backpressure and the leafblower vacuum trick and a lighter revealed air entering the burn chamber through the window airwash and fresh air intake - no leaks around the combustion fan or exhaust. Does this mean my air intake sensor is messed up and the control board is not showing the flashing as an error code?
The stove outlets to a 4" duravent pro cleanout T, goes vertical for four feet to a 90, through a concrete wall with 16" horizontal pipe and through a simpson duravent screened cap.
I called the importer... They never heard of anything like what I described and told me to check all of the internal connections, especially to the main board and display (which I did). Later, the Distributors tech support person told me to call the stove shop and couldn't help with diagnostics. He seemed surprised that the stove shut itself down hot without error codes. The importer is closed this week for inventory. (Sidebar - he specifically asked where I bought the stove once I began asking questions)
Question: Should the convection and combustion blowers increase noticeably as the feed rate is increased, or should the blowers wait until the additional heat is sensed? I don't remember how it used to run, but now the blowers do not spool up noticeably as feed rate increases, which I thought it used to do... Seems as I increase it from 25% to 75%, there are extremely minor increases in both convection and combustion blowers...
Interesting - yesterday morning the stove malfunctioned after I stirred the burnpot and filled the hopper. This morning, the stove malfunctioned several seconds after I opened the opper lid to lcheck the pellet level... ITs odd how minor things that had no impact last winter are causing malfunctions this winter.
Ed
Thanks!
Ed
Thanks!
Thanks.
Interesting case you have on your hand
I'm trying to follow through your story:
You posted this in one of your first posts
Now after a lot of different issues we are back again at:
If your hooper lid is too long open the stove will shut down, that is by default and normal. - it is not a malfunction.
Even a short opening of the lid, stops the feeder motor. This is a safety function and good so. When you close the lid again you will hear that the feeder motor starts working again. If not you still have an issue with your lid switch.......
Why do you open the Glass door to stir the burn pot????
Clean your burn pot out once a day after the normal shut down.
You have then a clean burn pot for the next day and no need at all to stir the pot during the day.
If you have lousy pellets change the self cleaning cycle to a shorter period so the clinker formation is less.
Let's go to next issue:
Just don't understand why you have the house filled with smoke when the stove shuts down unexpectedly. Are you opening the Glass Door???.
We have quite a lot of power failures by our power company, that means nothing works but never ever had smoke in my house.
Your draft set up is questionable even though the way you describe the run of your pipes it looks ok.
I know a lot of questions and comments from my side again, but looking forward to help you to solve your issues.
I'm trying to follow through your story:
You posted this in one of your first posts
Now after a lot of different issues we are back again at:
If your hooper lid is too long open the stove will shut down, that is by default and normal. - it is not a malfunction.
Even a short opening of the lid, stops the feeder motor. This is a safety function and good so. When you close the lid again you will hear that the feeder motor starts working again. If not you still have an issue with your lid switch.......
Why do you open the Glass door to stir the burn pot????
Clean your burn pot out once a day after the normal shut down.
You have then a clean burn pot for the next day and no need at all to stir the pot during the day.
If you have lousy pellets change the self cleaning cycle to a shorter period so the clinker formation is less.
Let's go to next issue:
Just don't understand why you have the house filled with smoke when the stove shuts down unexpectedly. Are you opening the Glass Door???.
We have quite a lot of power failures by our power company, that means nothing works but never ever had smoke in my house.
Your draft set up is questionable even though the way you describe the run of your pipes it looks ok.
I know a lot of questions and comments from my side again, but looking forward to help you to solve your issues.
Not anymore... The switch stopped working this week (no clicking unless I tap it to get it to function).. I don't see an obstruction or pellet clogging it, but will deal with that later today after a shutdown.
Does everyone really shut their stove down every day? I typically run mine for 2-3 straight days before a shut down, with only a minor scraping of "hard" ash out of the live burnpot ~ this worked fine last winter and this fall.
I'm burning Okanagans (good pellets) on fuel setting 2 (for lower quality fuel), the cleaning cycle is now 45 minutes rather than the regular 60.
I have lost power and gotten no smoke in the house during normal operation. The smoke in the house problem occurred during the following sequence
1. Stove is running "normally" until blowers begin to cycle high-low-humm-high-low-humm... This is the first sign of trouble.
2. Stove eventually shut down blowers & auger while running (no error codes) until only a few glowing embers remain in the burnpot (no smoke in the house)
3. Stove blowers comes to life at high blower & auger dumping pellets onto the glowing embers (50% operation) until pellets begins to burn/smolder
4. Large quantity of unburned pellets begin to smolder behind the glass - still no smoke in the house.
5. Stove shuts down blowers and auger during heavy smoldering - smoke seeps through airwash, fresh air intake and out exhaust (see smoke outside).
6. The blowers either resume their high-low-humm sequence or the house smoke alarm goes off & I press the "off" button to begin the shutdown sequence.
7. Stove will restart normally later with only an ashpan and burnpot cleaning.
I thought this was related to a burnpot clearing or a hopper refill, but not necessarily. The stove shop has apparently contacted the manufacturer's rep to determine what to do next. The control board reset did not solve the issue. Two nights ago, this high-low-hum sequence occurred during the cleaning cycle - first time that happened.
Thanks for your interest.
Ed
so I hope I understand correctly the hooper lid issue is not solved yet.
You do have to get that fixed first.
Check if the hooper lid sensor is mounted securely without any play. There are two inset screws which have to be tightened with an allen key.
To the cleaning of the burnpot
This is my daily cleaning routine I do on the stove and somehow I personally believe it is best to do so, others may disagree with me.
Your fuel setting 2 takes care of the shorter selfcleaning cycle, thats fine.
Any comment from dealer????
this is where he should come in to analyze the issue or maybe one of the other forum experts can chip in here in trying to analyze your issue too.
You do have to get that fixed first.
Check if the hooper lid sensor is mounted securely without any play. There are two inset screws which have to be tightened with an allen key.
To the cleaning of the burnpot
This is my daily cleaning routine I do on the stove and somehow I personally believe it is best to do so, others may disagree with me.
Your fuel setting 2 takes care of the shorter selfcleaning cycle, thats fine.
This is interesting. It can happen that it starts to cycle onto a higher level. but will return again to normal after a short while.
Auger should only shut down when stove goes into exit mode or lid is open, I don't like that the blower shuts down too.
Any comment from dealer????
this is where he should come in to analyze the issue or maybe one of the other forum experts can chip in here in trying to analyze your issue too.
when you say high low humm sequence - does it mean they are working or you have just the sound of it???
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
"Not anymore… The switch stopped working this week (no clicking unless I tap it to get it to function).. I don’t see an obstruction or pellet clogging it, but will deal with that later today after a shutdown."
Seems like you can't catch a break with that door switch.
Maybe those "imported" switches have a very short MTBF.
Did you check those limit switches as they control both convection fan and the auger, and one of them likely is proof of fire and would shut down things on the combustion side.
Somebody who has had that very situation with those limit switches posted here way back.
Seems like you can't catch a break with that door switch.
Maybe those "imported" switches have a very short MTBF.
Did you check those limit switches as they control both convection fan and the auger, and one of them likely is proof of fire and would shut down things on the combustion side.
Somebody who has had that very situation with those limit switches posted here way back.
SmokeyTheBear said:
How would I check those switches - I agree that the auto-reset feature can be more of a problem than its worth.. Anyone know what the error codes are for these stoves (and if I would get one for a high-limit shut off)? I think the low temperature shut off is the same thing I got when it ran out of pellets (haven't seen it since)?
Thanks.
jtakeman
Minister of Fire
eddyburns said:
Be sure to unplug the stove before playing.
I found the best way to test during operation is to have a 120V light bulb wired acrossed the switch. If it opens you see the bulb go off. Or if it closes the bulb comes on. Depending on what your testing.
Or you could use an DVM. Get yourself a fancy set of clamp on meter leads.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
eddyburns said:
With the stove turned off and unplugged, you can lift one wire from each switch and use a continuity tester or ohm meter. With the stove off the hi limit should show zero ohms or the continuity tester should indicate via light or sound that the switch is closed. Taping on that switch should not change the readings, in the case of the low limit switch it will show a very large ohm reading or the continuity tester will not light up or produce a sound, this also should not change if you tap the switch.
If the switches are loose in their mounts they will not be able to properly sense the temperature and may change state (on to off, off to on) as things get jostled in the stove (opening and closing doors, filling the hopper, vibrations from nearby roads .... etc ....) .
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