check the low limit switch on the exhaust: if its crapping out, then the stove will shut down like this… I have had several Rika switches that literally fell into two pieces when I removed them to check them… Often times, when the switch is closed, if it is bad you can shake it and hear the pieces rattling around.
PROBLEM
Fire goes out or the furnace switches
off automatically.
Cause(s):
1. container is empty
2. Pellets are not fed in
3. Thermal switch (upper temperature
limit) was triggered
4. Doors leaking or not closed properly
5. Poor pellet quality
6. Pellet feed rate too low
7. Thermal switch (lower temperature
limit) was triggered
possible solutions:
1. Fill up pellet container
2. See the following section “Pellets not
fed in”
3. Leave the furnace to cool down for an
hour and then start again
4. See “Maintenance” and “Cleaning”
5. Only use pellets recom
the reset of motherboard is good because it gets rid of wrong board settings if they exist.The shop called this afternoon and gave me the sequence to reboot/reset the motherboard
Get your dealer moving a little bit faster on your case. (sorry I'm from NY-and we don't have that much patience) You did not buy your stove in a discount place.The dealer came for a service call on Tuesday and adjusted the hopper lid switch that was “tripping too low” (for $95) - that didn’t solve the problem. The shop doesn’t want to start changing parts until they are “sure what is wrong” or the Distributor authorizes a new control board..
I tried setting two this past weekend.. Same problem.First, in the list of where you show your stove being on the FU1 setting, have you tried changing it to FU2? Sounds like your stove is a candidate for the reason why that setting was created. If you have not tried that then you should. There is lots of documentation out there that eludes to this and the reasons why you would.
Yes. Cleaned completely including the back passage.. Stove only had 3-4 tons since new, it was virtually clean.Second, when you cleaned your stove, did you remove the clean-out access plate on the back of the combustion chamber and clean that area out? This is a roughly 4" round plate on the control board side of the stove and you can only get to it by taking off both of the right side panels. This area will hold a lot of ash and if not cleaned out periodically it will plug up your stove. There are four air passages behind the baffles that exit to this chamber. If those passages get plugged or almost plugged, the stove will starve for air.
I'll replace that gasket - though it came off undamaged. Stove had the same problem before and after the cleaning. Also, no explanation for the groaning noise coming out of the convection fan when it cycles endlessly between high to low until it is shutdown.. I have given 6 videos of this to the stove shop to be forwarded to the manufacturer/distributor(?). Even if the unit had been clogged, why would it shut itself down hot without a cooldown cycle?Third, when you removed the fan, is it possible you damaged the gasket material and you have an air leak? If this is the case your stove will be sucking in air at the exhaust exit point instead of the air intake and none of that air will be going through the burn pot.
Shuts down all blowers while stove is hot as hell (with a pot full of glowing embers) while there is an active flame (not like when the unit needs a good cleaning after a few weeks) and begins to dump smoke in the house. With the exception of the one time it ran out of pellets, I have never had an error code on this stove.Based upon your software version (determined to be at least 1.33 since you have FU1/FU2 options) if you had an issue with the high limit switch you would be seeing an ER2. If an error with the low limit it would be ER0. I don't think you are having an issue with either of those sensors if you don't see either of those two errors. Both sensors are self resetting and don't need to be replaced if they trigger. The low limit is closed when the stove is hot, and opens when it gets below about 100 degrees (if it's open the stove is too cold to run so it will shutdown). The high sensor is normally closed all the time but will open at somewhere well over 200 degrees. If that sensors opens it will also cause an eventual shutdown but the stove will have to stay running long enough to open the low limit - this could take a couple of hours depending upon how hot the stove was when the high limit opened.
Software version 1.36... No error code. It is a freestanding - serial number #30384(i'll double check that later).Are you seeing either an ER4 or a flashing display any time prior to the stove error'ing out? Do you have an insert or a free standing and what does the vent configuration look like (3" or 4" rigid or flex, any angles such as 45's or 90's, both horizontal and vertical lengths, etc...) It would be helpful to know for sure what software version you do have and your serial number. Knowing answers to these questions might help me get you going in the right direction. I am certainly no expert, but I do know a lot about the newer RIKA pellet stoves.
No flashing display or error codes.One thing you don't mention in your reply is if you see a flashing display before the stove shuts down.
I cleaned the stovepipe tonight and it was still clean - no backpressure and the leafblower vacuum trick and a lighter revealed air entering the burn chamber through the window airwash and fresh air intake - no leaks around the combustion fan or exhaust. Does this mean my air intake sensor is messed up and the control board is not showing the flashing as an error code?In v1.36 the ER4 code was removed and replaced with a flashing display but the same trigger would cause the flashing. That trigger is a disruption of airflow. If the condition occurs, the auger will shut down for up to 2-minutes. If the condition can be resolved within that time auger feed will resume, if it can't then either an ER3 will occur or the stove will cool down enough to trigger a shutdown. Regardless of how the shutdown is initiated, the full shut down cycle is 8-minutes long once it starts. That includes a 1-minute initiation, a 2-minute cleaning, and a 5-minute cool down. In an ER4 or flashing display condition, the fan will ramp up and sound erratic.
The stove outlets to a 4" duravent pro cleanout T, goes vertical for four feet to a 90, through a concrete wall with 16" horizontal pipe and through a simpson duravent screened cap.You didn't describe your vent configuration. This could be a factor.
I called the importer... They never heard of anything like what I described and told me to check all of the internal connections, especially to the main board and display (which I did). Later, the Distributors tech support person told me to call the stove shop and couldn't help with diagnostics. He seemed surprised that the stove shut itself down hot without error codes. The importer is closed this week for inventory. (Sidebar - he specifically asked where I bought the stove once I began asking questions)Have you tried the calling the importer for help. They may be able to assist as well.
Yesterday, after waiting fifteen (15) days for warranty service to fix the issue, I paid $90 for a service call to adjust hopper lid switch (???).
Interesting - yesterday morning the stove malfunctioned after I stirred the burnpot and filled the hopper. This morning, the stove malfunctioned several seconds after I opened the hopper lid to check the pellet level… ITs odd how minor things that had no impact last winter are causing malfunctions this winter.
Not anymore... The switch stopped working this week (no clicking unless I tap it to get it to function).. I don't see an obstruction or pellet clogging it, but will deal with that later today after a shutdown.Even a short opening of the lid, stops the feeder motor. This is a safety function and good so. When you close the lid again you will hear that the feeder motor starts working again. If not you still have an issue with your lid switch.....
Does everyone really shut their stove down every day? I typically run mine for 2-3 straight days before a shut down, with only a minor scraping of "hard" ash out of the live burnpot ~ this worked fine last winter and this fall.Why do you open the Glass door to stir the burn pot????
Clean your burn pot out once a day after the normal shut down.
You have then a clean burn pot for the next day and no need at all to stir the pot during the day.
I'm burning Okanagans (good pellets) on fuel setting 2 (for lower quality fuel), the cleaning cycle is now 45 minutes rather than the regular 60.If you have lousy pellets change the self cleaning cycle to a shorter period so the clinker formation is less.
I have lost power and gotten no smoke in the house during normal operation. The smoke in the house problem occurred during the following sequenceJust don't understand why you have the house filled with smoke when the stove shuts down unexpectedly. Are you opening the Glass Door???.
We have quite a lot of power failures by our power company, that means nothing works but never ever had smoke in my house.
Your draft set up is questionable even though the way you describe the run of your pipes it looks ok.
This is interesting. It can happen that it starts to cycle onto a higher level. but will return again to normal after a short while.1. Stove is running “normally” until blowers begin to cycle high-low-humm-high-low-humm… This is the first sign of trouble
Auger should only shut down when stove goes into exit mode or lid is open, I don't like that the blower shuts down too.2. Stove eventually shut down blowers & auger while running (no error codes) until only a few glowing embers remain in the burnpot (no smoke in the house)
when you say high low humm sequence - does it mean they are working or you have just the sound of it???The blowers either resume their high-low-humm sequence or the house smoke alarm goes off & I press the “off” button to begin the shutdown sequence.
SmokeyTheBear said:Did you check those limit switches as they control both convection fan and the auger, and one of them likely is proof of fire and would shut down things on the combustion side.
eddyburns said:SmokeyTheBear said:Did you check those limit switches as they control both convection fan and the auger, and one of them likely is proof of fire and would shut down things on the combustion side.
How would I check those switches - I agree that the auto-reset feature can be more of a problem than its worth.. Anyone know what the error codes are for these stoves (and if I would get one for a high-limit shut off)? I think the low temperature shut off is the same thing I got when it ran out of pellets (haven't seen it since)?
Thanks.
eddyburns said:SmokeyTheBear said:Did you check those limit switches as they control both convection fan and the auger, and one of them likely is proof of fire and would shut down things on the combustion side.
How would I check those switches - I agree that the auto-reset feature can be more of a problem than its worth.. Anyone know what the error codes are for these stoves (and if I would get one for a high-limit shut off)? I think the low temperature shut off is the same thing I got when it ran out of pellets (haven't seen it since)?
Thanks.
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