I posted before with having an issue with my Convection and Blower motors on my Whitfield Advantage II - T. Suddenly they started to work properly again :roll: . However my combustion blower has started to act up again. Now it turns VERY slowly and the casing heats up until it trips the thermal switch on the motor. I have tried cleaning it with no luck. Do you think that its the motor that just went bad after all the years or do you think that its another deeper issue seeing as Ive had problems before that just seemed to disappear? Thanks in advance for all of the help you guy!
Do I have a bad motor or Control Board?
- Thread starter JesseRRies
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Mr Fixit
New Member
I would test the voltage going to the motor while in operation. If you are getting 110-120v, then the motor is getting the correct power and the motor needs to be replaced.
jtakeman
Minister of Fire
Mr Fixit said:
Im getting about 104 V, which is the same that Im getting to the convection blower. I had a problem before where the motors would just speed up and slow down to the point that they were almost stopped all by themselves and suddenly it started to work correctly again. When I was having that problem the voltage was droping to about 90 V.
jtakeman
Minister of Fire
Are you connected into a ground fault circuit? Some stove's don't like being in ground faults.
Have you checked the supply voltage as well?
Have you checked the supply voltage as well?
I didn't realalize there was WH2's and WHII's, so now I know. Anyhow OIL & OIL somemore. My old WH2 needed oil in 2 months for both fans and the motor decal said every 6 months. That said a motor might be on it's last lap anyways, but mine keeps on going & going with more oil. Might as well get all the life you can out of 'em. But they'll stop infrequently like you said, and run slow and make noise or not. Take the motor out to clean and oil and keep spinning by hand 'til it spins freely, you'll know it when it's freed up. bjr23
wil lanfear
Feeling the Heat
Have you checked the incoming voltage at the service panel to confirm what voltage the power company is supplying? IMHO, you have an issue with low voltage, maybe a loose connection on the outlet terminals, where the stove is plugged in, check the screw on the circuit breaker where the wire connects to that circuit for tightness. I've even seen the service cable lugs in the service panel become loose over time when using aluminum service entrance cables. If you are getting voltage measurements as you mention, either your getting short changed by the power company or you have a loose connection somewhere.JesseRRies said:
wil said:
On that outlet im getting 117v-118v, and im getting the 104 - 109 across the power block and on the leads to the motor. Ive tried oiling it using fully synthetic Royal Purple SAE 20 to no avail. I guess its time to buy a new motor!
JesseRRies said:
Oooooooh...Royal Purple is great stuff! We use it in our sprint cars engines....nice! If it didn't get any better with that, most likely a bad motor.
Last ditch would be to run 120v directly to the motor and see if it gets any better, or remove it and bench test it, unless you already did that.
Mr Whitfield
Feeling the Heat
I agree with MacMan, hook 120 volts to the fan if the fan run at Hi speed ( super fast), I would say your your control board has gone south (BAD).
Mr Fixit
New Member
Keep in mind that this is how the speed of the blower is regulated by the circuit board, by varying the voltage. It may very well be that it is supposed to have the voltage as measured. I like the idea of supplying direct power and see how it behaves.
So last night I turned on the stove to try to maybe hunt down the problem by checking the amperage that the motor was drawing....and it started working properly again. Trying to fix a problem when you aren't always experiencing it is so frustrating
I'll belabor the point a little, but are you removing the fan and motor and working the oil into the bushings? I had a little end play in the shaft and I kept working the shaft endways and spinning and oiling and finally I got the fan to spin freely. I didn't get satisfactorly results by just squirting oil in the little holes on the motor housing. I've a oil can with the longer skinny tube on it that gets down into the area between the fan and the motor bushing. If the motor still trys to turn but stops intermintly I'd still go for a lubrcation issue. I'm so finacially tight, I won't disgard a electric motor till she smokes. Having said that I suppose it could be a loose winding that comes apart with rpms. Okay, eoungh outta me, I probably go past good forum etiquette. bjr23
bjr23 said:
I have oiled the fan both on and off of the stove. I have never had the fan be even remotely hard to turn, it always spins freely, there is a little shaft play but nothing out of the ordinary. And just as you are I too am financially tight which is my reason for seeking the help of you guys rather than just buying parts. Also, the motor never really stops it just slows down dramatically then picks up RPMs again like there is a voltage drop but there isnt. Thanks for your input to this issue I need all the help I can get!
jtakeman
Minister of Fire
JesseRRies said:
If you absolutly sure that you caught the motor slowing down and there was no voltage drop. Sounds like the motor to me!
Post the numbers off the motor. I will see if there is an alternate source. Maybe save you a buck or two! I'll see what I can find for you.
jay
jtakeman said:
So my motor has been running perfectly for the past few days on level 4. Ughhh, I hate trying to figure out a problem when its only happening sometimes! I guess Ill just clean the motor real good with some contact cleaner, put new ends on the leads, and reoil it and hope that it works well for a long time to come. The motor is a Fasco 702177578212
Type U21B 1/70 HP
Thanks again to everyone for all of the help!
If that is the older two knob control board I can fix it for you.
Pellet Stove Controller Board-Repairman
Pellet Stove Controller Board-Repairman
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