Post 2 - Rules for Wood Boiler Newbies

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Tennman

Minister of Fire
Mar 4, 2009
993
Southern Tenn
Now after 2 months of operations there are several clear lessons that I have learned.

1) Every Gasser boiler newbie should start up with a chord of seasoned wood, even if it means buying it. Had I started with a chord of seasoned oak which in the total scheme of this project would have been cheap and saved a bunch of time.
2) There should be a System Baseline Database. This would be a piece of cake for you EKO users. If you start the first week of operations with seasoned oak, and 5-6 baselined parameters for an EKO 60, EKO 40, Econoburn ???, etc. this will get you into the 60-70 percent efficiency range which could be called a baseline. Changes made from the baseline can be evaluated THEN you can gage improvement or deterioration of performance. Two months in and I'm not close to that baseline (mainly my bad because I busted rule 1 above).
3) The first 2-3 weeks or operation are critical for one of the most important variables which I'll call the "Momma Satisfaction Parameter". I rate myself more tenacious than most because I've been down the making stuff work road a bunch of times. But the dreaded question none of us want to hear is "You said it would do....". Seeing the system do what you expected in the first several weeks is important to momma and the newbie.
 
I like your item 1...but in item 2 I think it's a bit misleading to say setting 5 or 6 parameters will get you to 60-70% efficiency. Efficiency is such a nebulous term for us wood burners. Even a PERFECTLY tuned gasser will drop below 60% efficiency during certain portions of a normal burn. You'll also have a hard time exceeding those numbers if you're battling weird weather (bad draft) or fighting some less than prime wood. The sticky in this forum on fine tuning the EKO is a great place to start for any gasser user. After reading a few pages you will see that there are a lot of variables to "fine tuning" these things. Not the least of which is what kind of draft you're getting, what kind of wood you're burning and what kind of load your driving. No two setups are the same but a good start for most people is the set of settings mentioned in your manual...in my humble opinion.
 
Thanks Stee, I spent New Years Day morning reading that great post. Unfortunately the BioMass is quite different from the EKO. I learned alot to the point that I've experimented with the % fan setting in the controller, but have no idea where to start with the primary and secondary flaps behind the door. Now that I'm fighting to keep the house warm its seems a bad time for experimenting. Unlike the EKO the BioMass group here is much smaller and let's just say setting data is scarce for my unit. Here's the data I do have, my 105Kbtu propane furnace can keep up at a low thermostat setting but my 210Kbtu isn't. I'm confident it will, but can't tell if it all wood related or settings or both. I think I'm going to buy some seasoned wood to eliminate some of my unknowns. I'm already getting suggestions about a flue temp sensor. Thanks. stay tuned.
 
I agree with Stee, I believe point 1 has been debated to death on this site and many others and included in most manuals. The biggest challenge there is many do not know what seasoned means, Orlan suggest the moisture tester and that helps.
Point 2 is very tricky, even before the different colors of Orlan make hit the market, many variations in build were evident in the Eko. There are standard and super, primary air in the top of the primary chamber and lower. All these didn't surface untill measurements were being compared (believe last season) here. Than last but not least is location, wood quality, draft, heatload, and attention to detail to mention just a few.

Henk.
 
Tennman said:
Thanks Stee, I spent New Years Day morning reading that great post. Unfortunately the BioMass is quite different from the EKO. I learned alot to the point that I've experimented with the % fan setting in the controller, but have no idea where to start with the primary and secondary flaps behind the door. Now that I'm fighting to keep the house warm its seems a bad time for experimenting. Unlike the EKO the BioMass group here is much smaller and let's just say setting data is scarce for my unit. Here's the data I do have, my 105Kbtu propane furnace can keep up at a low thermostat setting but my 210Kbtu isn't. I'm confident it will, but can't tell if it all wood related or settings or both. I think I'm going to buy some seasoned wood to eliminate some of my unknowns. I'm already getting suggestions about a flue temp sensor. Thanks. stay tuned.
I'd hate to be without the flue gas temp therm. that is on my Atmos. I run my boiler with it. This is a very accurate probe type therm. Your boiler isn't as critical being a firetube type, it doesn't have the capability of running away as the Atmos does. As one poster said, a decent quality surface mount should be fine. My point is, you mention starting with basics & this is a good place to start. Wet wood , dry wood, bridging, etc etc all show up on a flue gas therm., Randy
 
When loading logs, don't stick your head inside the stove. :) I got a little too close and lets just say I'm shy a little hair and one eyebrow! LOL!
 
[quote author="MNBobcat" date="1263197509"]When loading logs, don't stick your head inside the stove. :) I got a little too close and lets just say I'm shy a little hair and one eyebrow! LOL![/ ] They will grow back! Ask me how I know, Randy
 
Note that Term #3 has also been often discussed as a requirement - more commonly on this forum it is referred to as the "WAF" or "Wife Acceptance Factor"

Gooserider
 
Actually, from observations around this place, Rule # 1 could be . . .

"Year 1 will be rough, but it only gets better :cheese: "

Doesn't seem to make that much difference which brand we use.

Expect for the future . . .

1)Fossil usage to go down
2)WAF to go up
3)Setbacks to happen
4)The curve to flatten
5)Post-payback satisfaction
 
ISeeDeadBTUs said:
Actually, from observations around this place, Rule # 1 could be . . .

"Year 1 will be rough, but it only gets better :cheese: "

Doesn't seem to make that much difference which brand we use.

Expect for the future . . .

1)Fossil usage to go down
2)WAF to go up
3)Setbacks to happen
4)The curve to flatten
5)Post-payback satisfaction

Don't forget #6: Eyebrows will regrow when all other conditions are met. ;-)
 
Yes, I pretty much accept this is my "Debugging" year. It's clear I need more sensors. I'll repeat here that at the moment my most used sensors are the boiler water temp and the glass window in the lower chamber. I'm gonna get a flue gas sensor tho.

Singed where did you get your flue gas monitor.

In the future I will use the WAF acronym. No need for another. Today my WAF is running about .5, need it up in the .85-.95 range asap. :)
 
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