Lopi Leyden Igniter Replacement

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defield

defield

New Member
Nov 21, 2008
433
South Central Maine
Has anyone here replaced the igniter on a Lopi Leyden?

The front part of the removal is fairly basic, but the back part wires and clips is hard to get at. may have to disconnect the exhaust and move the stove.

Any special tricks I should be aware of??

The igniter is still under warranty and the stove shop will take care of the part and much of the labor.

Thanks,

Ranger
 
Ranger, i have the same prob, so's i have to start mine with a plumber's torch . Pain in the arse . My Leyden is already 3 years old so i'm not covered for the igniter. I think i have to discommect the exhaust to get to the igniter. I can't see that happening anytime soon. Let me know how you make out . Muss
 
Muss,

Am using the ignitor failure as a reason to again disassemble and thoroughly clean the stove and am leaving the stove apart to make it somewhat easier ( and cleaner) for the tech ( since it is warmer now) , BUT . . .

Having been spoiled ROTTEN, by having auto ignition, I would be interested in your manual starting sequence. Do you:

1. Fill the burn pot ( how full?)

2. Use a starter gel of some type?

3. Start the fire burning with the plumber's torch before or after placing the switch into the manual run position?

4. Does the starting process allow smoke to enter the room before the door(s) are closed?

Any other tips you can think of?

Thank you,

Ranger
 
Ranger, are you using the thermostat? This doesn't sound like a fun project. I had a hard enough time trying to get at the blowers for cleaning. Muss, how long did your igniter last? I haven't hooked up the thermostat just for the reason of trying to extend the life of the igniter. I am wondering how long do I have to mentally prepare myself for moving the stove and completely tearing it apart.
 
Wood Nugget,

Yes, I have been running with a thermostat.

At first I used the thermostat provided by Travis Industries, then I went to a programmable unit.

I had been concerned for some time that the thermostatic operation would hasten the demise of the ignitor, but had things set up so well between pellet stove, wood boiler, and furnace, that I didn't really want to disrupt the schedule.

The stove was installed on January 13th., 2008, so the ignitor lasted just over a year.

I am now thinking about a combination of manual and automatic operation once fixed.

Ranger,

P.S. When the stove guys did the install, I said that I was going to run it in manual mode for a while. They said, "Oh, No. Use a thermostat. Lopi's run great on a thermostat."

Could that have been a self serving statement that would expand their opportunity for service calls??? Hmmmm . . . . . . .
 
Okay, here are the steps i take to light it. I press Manual, then pellets start dropping. Then after there is enough pellets in the firebox, i fire up the pellets with the propane torch. I keep the restrictor pushed in till i close the doors then adjust accordingly. The major drawback is that you can't use the thermostat but it really is small beans cause i run it on high low if i decide to leave it on thru the nite otherwise i shut it for the night, turn the oil furnace on for 10 minutes when i get up in the morn & light the stove . Then 10 or so minutes that the furnace is on takes the chill out of the house. The igniter lasted me just a tad over 2 complete heating systems. This is my 3rd burning season & i'm still learning . I do a decent clean up every other day . I love the 5 tons of Maine's Choice . I'll never take another chance on the Athen pellets again. Good luck guys & stay cose. Muss
 
the igniter is able to be changed out without removing any blowers on the Leyden. I did one not that long ago and to my memory (sometimes hard without having the stove in front of me) you have to remove the fireback and the metal panels behind them and there is a screw holding the ignitor in place there. Remove the back panel off of the stove and I use a long socket attachment to take off the two screws where the wires come out, disconnect the wires and pull the old one out.
 
CSCPeter,

Thanks for your response. You are correct.

The only difficulty with ours was that it had to be pulled out to get room at the back of the unit to remove the screws that hold the guide plate and grommet for the wires.

Them stoves is heavy or I am getting old.

Ranger
 
get the pot out, the inside bricks, and get into the back of the pot. remove the screws holding the sheet metal guard on, and the one holding the ignitor tab on.
remove panels in the back. slide out distribution fan to get a good view from that side.
long universal screwdriver w/ magnetic 1/4" chuck.
remove the square plate w/ "U" Cut out of it. disconnect ignitor wire disconnects, and pull thru from front.
Re-thread new ignitor wires fron burn pot area to the back.
reverse previous order to reconnect.
takes about 20 mins.
 
Let's say i would try & put in a new igniter & that is a stretch for me, where would i order it from ? I certainly do not want to go back to the dealer i bought my stove from. Being a frenchman, it's gonna take just about a personal walk-thru for me to even attempt that ting me . Muss
 
Muss,

Summit's steps are very accurate and descriptive and should be followed in the order he gave. Once you remove access panels to be able to see what the components look like, using his steps, you should be all set.

The screws that hold "the square plate w/ “U” Cut out of it." are accessed from the back of the stove and are in quite a way. As Summit stated, you would need a LONG universal screwdriver and it would need a magnetic tip.

Also, you DO need to have reasonable room to get , at least head and arms, behind the stove to access the screws and the wiring disconnects.

Summit gives his location as Central Maine and his company may be a good source for you.

My ignitor, under warranty, came from Frost and Flame, in Gorham, Maine and they were very nice to deal with.

Good luck,

Ranger
 
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