AHONA Water Storage Tanks

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Birdman

New Member
May 21, 2008
278
NH
oooooooooooo.... I love the looks of those tanks on their website. Nice refurbished and yellow and all set up. Does anyone have any more info on these? Has anyone any bought anything from this business? I am determined to have pressurized storage all set up before April. I have a plumber ready to go... just need tanks! I know i should just call..... but... does anyone know how much AHONA charges for the 2 500 gallon tanks ( yellow ones in pic). ?
 
I had talked to them last year but decided to build my own pair. I had height limitations to deal with. However they do a complete refurbish, and if i recall correctly you can add a DHW coil in the end of the top tank. I think they were around $1200 but don't quote me on that. If you want to go used try Hogdon bros in Ascutney VT. They are a salvage yard and get tanks and know what were looking for ask for "Dusty". They are very laid back so I would call once a week or so until they say they have a couple available. However there is a lot of work in setting up your own pair! Just getting the smell out is a project.
Rob
 
Purchased a 500 gallon tank from AHONA for 700 dollars 2 years ago. All welded and ready to go. Did a little extra cleaning, and it was ready to go.
 
Saw lots and lots of tanks of all types and sizes at Gates salvage in Hardwick, VT this fall-- propane tanks, big stainless tanks that might make excellent storage, etc.
 
Looks like smokelessheat has some tank options as well. I hadn't heard of the Swedish boilers they sell until they entered them into my database. They have Aqualux tanks that seem to be associated with the boilers, but they also offer refurbished propane tanks. They are in PA though and you are in NH. Sounds like some of the VT leads suggested above are closer.

I like the sound of the one trehugr mentioned. If they do all the modifications and DHW for a $1 a gallon of storage, I am not sure you can get much better than that. Pressurized is the way to go so you can get the temp up to the 180*+ range. BTW - did you ever get your piping redone to solve the mixing issue with the series hookup? I am still limping along with mine cause I didn't get to it over the summer. If we have a lot more weather like the couple of cold snaps we just got through, I may just take the system offline and do it mid season...
 
I have two AHONA tanks with 4" ports and 2" ports added, plus the saddle package for vertical mounting. I don't weld and Mark and Nate at AHONA do this for a living, so I paid them for their services. Tanks were 1300 each last fall plus fittings. I also go the boiler from them. I wished I had cleaned them with bleach before putting them in the basement but oh well...
 

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Thanks for the info guys! I really like the look of the tanks.. and how they are set up. I rreally like how they come all set and ready to go. Did someone say I would still have to clean them out? This i do not like. I would love it if they came all set and 100 percent ready for my plumber.
 
woodnotoil. Our plans are: keep the set up the same for now ( series ). I have tweaked the aquastats and the valve is shut three quarters of the way ...that way when 3 zones are calling at the same time.. the oil burner does not come on and enough hot water is getting mixed. My plan is this.

1. get pressurized storage set up in basement.. thinking 500 gallons for now.. with another 500 added in future. complete this within next 3-4 months

2. better insulate my drafty log cabin... along with fix roof issues...another story. complete this by end of summer

3. next year... have attached garage built with extra space ( tarm room and space for wood)

4. move Tarm into garge... maybe set it up as a primary secondary.

I have a nice set up in my basement.. its walkout and convienant... but... wife wants to park car inside agarge .. and i want space for tractor... truck etc... so.. i think it would be nice to have the tarm in garage... i can drive wood right in.. not have to restack it. Then wife can have basement area for storage and other stuff. Right now basement is packed with mowers, motorcylcle,wood....
 
I happen to be the proud owner of those yellow tanks in AHONA picture. Those are out in my boiler shed along with a Paxo 60. I then feed a 620 gallon stss tank in the basement too.. I have one fire a day, a load or a load and a quarter of wood and can go about 15 hours on heat before I'm down to about 135-140 dgrees. At times I've gone 24 hours, when it's been like 38 dergees out. I have all radiant heat in a 1500 sq ft Log home , plus a 38x40 garage with radiant heat. I can get useable heat even when the STSS tank is down to 125 degrees. Had to put in a controller to shut the STSS tank down once it reaches 165, as the tanks in the shed are 180-185 at times. First year with the Paxo, so it's been a big learning curve. Woods 20% so I had to run my flue gas a little hotter than normal. Sure beats my outdoor wood boiler I ran for 7 years. Mark at AHONA is a very smart guy, thinks way outside the book, and has answered his phone , every time I've called, with any questions. He designed my whole system and been excellent. He's there 200% after the sale. I'm really happy with my set up. As posted before on the hearth, a big investment, but nice not being tied down to the stove anymore. Kind of burn when it's convenient. I always seem to have heat...Charlie
 
Thanks for the info! Can I ask how much you paid for that setup? Did they come all ready for a plumber? or did you have to do anything to them before you could use them? I just used the website map directions for ahona... looks like a 5 hour drive for me. Could be a good road trip for me in April? I am happy to see you are saying good things about the business... this is the best type of referal
 
Birdman,
My bill came to 12,600, with the boiler and tanks , and parts needed to complete the job. A plumber -dealer local to me did the install. Price did not include labor or inch and half copper. I'd say another 6000 for labor and parts. Inch and a half ball valves , unions etc,. add up fast. Black Iron would probaly save you some money. I already owned the STSS buffer tank from years earlier. The thousand gallons would be fine, more than likely. You won't be sorry making the trip to Marks. With his knowledge, he makes you feel good just being around him. I never met such a nice positive person. Alisa his wife is just as nice a person. Mark has built his own planes , so he is a smart man and like a I said, a thinker outside the book and a very, very meticulous person. You'll see when you meet him, then you tell me! Yes the tanks had weld rings, already to go. All you have to do is thread in your fittings , air bleeds and well gauges. I actually installed an auto meter car gauge into the top tank that sits right in the water. That way I can compare the well and the direct read gauge. They're within one degree. Hope this helps!....Charlie
 
What do they charge for the tanks alone? No prices on their website.
 
Reggie,
I don't remember off hand, I want to say the tanks were 2800 for the pair. Alot cheaper than going the STSS route, for the same amount of storage, plus you able to store much hotter water...Charlie
 
Birdman, what are your aquastats set at and which valve is closed 3/4's of the way. Could you explain what the benefit is with this. I also have a series setup with a Biasi 3wood. It burns fantastic but I hate the mixing of return with supply water. My actual supply
temps. drop 15-25 degrees. My house is still warm without a problem, 3000sq. ft. Will that make it more efficient?
 
I will check and repost as to teh settings of the aquastats. I must admit.. i am not a plumber and have limited knowledge of the way this stuff works( boilers) and i am not an engineer boiler junky... like alot of the smart guys here. Hopefully those guys will chime in to correct me.. or set my explanation stratight. Anyways... here it goes. I have a valve near the back of Tarm piping. i believe it regulates the temp of water that gets rerouted to the tarm to protect the tarm from cold water coming back as the cold water surge could damage the tarm. So.. with this valve all the way open... i get less hot water where i want it. When i close it halfway or even 3/4 i get a huge increase in the hot water temp that is going to the zones. I only have one gaue on my system... it is the one on the oil boiler... but ... i see a big increase in that temp on that gauge when i adjust this valve. When it is midwinter..outside temps 30 to -30... this allows 3 zones to come on all at once.. and the oil boiler will not turn on. If i leave the valve open... my oil boiler will turn on with 3 zones calling. i no like that oil burner soiund
 
xclimber. yes i could do 2800. sounds ok. however.... i know very little about stting these tanks up. Will i have to get some sort of copper tubes to put in the tanks? can you describe the steps in setting up your tanks?
 
Birdman,
The copper pipe is used to connect your boiler to the tanks, or you could use black iron also. There are schematics on here, simplist pressurized storage system design, listed at the top of the boiler room site. Or you can even call Mark at AHONA. He could give you a good heads up on other possible layouts, and also maybe other people on this site will chime in. There's alot of smart people on here, as you will see as you start to log on more. Mark's tanks also have a 4 inch port to except a solar hot water coil, if you decided to add that on ,later.
 
pabloinvt said:
Birdman, what are your aquastats set at and which valve is closed 3/4's of the way. Could you explain what the benefit is with this. I also have a series setup with a Biasi 3wood. It burns fantastic but I hate the mixing of return with supply water. My actual supply
temps. drop 15-25 degrees. My house is still warm without a problem, 3000sq. ft. Will that make it more efficient?

What Birdman referred to in his response is the Termovar valve that protects the boiler return water from getting too cold. There is a is usually a shutoff valve on the hot supply to this valve that is used to balance the flow. 1/2 to 3/4 closed is approx. what it needs to be set to.

To reduce mixing you can also close each zone return valve (if you have them) to 1/2 or 3/4 to balance zone flow with the flow between the boilers. Series hookups just have this issue and the best thing in the long run is to just repipe it to a reverse flow parallel or primary/secondary piping arrangment.

Another thing I did to limp by on mine is I put in a cheap relay so that no more than 2 zone pumps could run simultaneously.
 
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