Purchased kiln dry wood, still have an issue.

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ckarotka

Minister of Fire
Sep 21, 2009
641
Northwest PA on the lake
I wanted to wait a while before trying some kiln dry wood and become more familar with the stove before posting again. Well yesterday I went to Lowes and got some dry wood and tried a load. I still have a few issues. For the most part I can get the stove to burn pretty well but.....I have to make multiple adjustments during the burn to get through the whole load. From reload I leave the door cracked and shut in in stages until the fire is going well, flue about 350 stove about 400. I leave the primary open for a bit to let things get cookin. I then shut it in stages and the stove gets to about 530 good right? Well then it starts to slowly climb and the fire gets larger and larger, at about 580 and a large fire I push in the primary 1/4" and it stalls out and goes to 450 stove top. If I don't stay on top of it she will overfire (been really close a few times while expirimenting). What would cause such a drastic change in the fire with such a small air adjustment? Remember kiln dry wood, flue is clean and cap, straight up flue 15', 2ft higher than ridge, outside temp last night 20-25F. I've checked all gaskets and the stove for cracks or holes, and the ash plug is seated well. Since I can kill the fire I can only assume the box is tight with no air leaks. It seems that I have to let it rip, kill it, let it rip, kill it a few times before she stabilizes. I've tried taking it up to 600 and higher before closing the primary also with the same effects. Flue temps reflect whats going on inside the box, more air = hotter gases.

Things go really well up to that last air adjustment to get it to cruise closer to 500-550 not 600-625. She loves to cruise at 600 or higher, (really 650-675) great for really cold days but not for burn times. I was told that this stove is best at 500-550 so thats my target temp, plus I don't need 600-650 to heat my house, 550 for hours is plenty, stove room gets to 77 and the farthest room gets to about 68-70 with our avg outside temps of 20's, of course this is after hours of burning. I do a lot of cold starts due to work and the wife and kids don't run the stove.


Thanks,

Charlie
 
Where is this stove installed in the house? If it's in the basement, or your house is very tight, it might be "air locked" Try cracking a window to see if that makes a difference. If that makes a difference, than you'll need an Outside Air Kit (oak).

Also, how much wood are you putting in the stove? I've seen people have this problem who didn't realize it take more than a few pieces to get things really cruising. Additionally, if you are starting the stove from cold, my first fire from stone cold never seems to throw the heat as well as subsequent loadings. My 30 operates much better when there are warm coals under the fresh load of wood.

Your chimney also is the minimum height. My friend had a similar setup and found that with his stove, one more section of pipe made a world of difference. That extra 3 feet went from him not being able to close the air down less than 1/2, to being able to close all the way and maintain a secondary burn.

pen
 
last night I put in 4 medium splits of kiln dry oak with a maple starter. Stove is on the first floor by the front door, opening a window doesn't seem to make a big impact. The house is 50 years old and I know the insulation could be better in the walls, so it's possible that I have and air lock issue but I would say not probable.
 
15 feet isn't a lot of flue. Amount of draft is commensurate with heat going up the flue. Maybe your temp gauges are bent. Maybe as pen said, you have a pressure deficit affecting air supply.

All that said, you need to find the sweet spot on the stove. If that means you burn hotter and use more wood, you need a bigger house to match the stove.
 
pen said:
Your chimney also is the minimum height. My friend had a similar setup and found that with his stove, one more section of pipe made a world of difference. That extra 3 feet went from him not being able to close the air down less than 1/2, to being able to close all the way and maintain a secondary burn.

pen

This sounds a lot like what I've got going on. When things get settled in the primary is open under half as well.
 
I have the exact same issue and I'm wondering if it's my thermostat or the fact that I hardly put any wood in it. My usual load is 3 or 4 splits across the bottom with 2 on top. As the splits on the bottom burn out I move the top ones down and turn them 90 degrees so they line up with the others. Then I'll wait a while and put 2 more on top. It probably never settles into a good burn but it's scary to load it up when the temp is all over the gauge.

I guess we should really load them up and see if that helps? Mine will also die (very quickly) if I push the damper shut with a screwdriver, so I keep the cover off of it in case I need to do that and it's nice to know that if it's loaded up it shouldn't get away if we are paying attention.

Craig
 
As some else mentioned add some height to the flue, not knowing what your external set up looks like it is very possible that you have issues with adjacent buildings or fauna (trees) creating an air flow that is detrimental to your draft. Remember that the flue should be 3 ft above the highest peak within 10 ft. ( and that is just an apx. rule of thumb) depending on the pitch of your roof and location of the flue you might not be clearing your peak which will lead to draft issues.
 
You said you got kiln-dried wood from Lowe's. I bought some firewood at Lowe's the other day, wrapped in clear plastic at the middle, not the ends. It came from California. Nothing on the packaging said "kiln-dried", it was just called "seasoned". They must have used salt and pepper, because it seems pretty wet.
 
I just assumed it was kiln dried. I thought all the big box stores had "kiln" dried. Maybe I should try to find another batch and try again before any mods take place. How about Home Depot??
 
Take one of your splits and split down the middle again, if i is more than 20 % you might be able to feel a difference from the outside to inside or sprinkle some baby powder or talcum powder on the inside surface liberally wait a bit ( at least 15 min.) and see if has absorbed moisture from the wood. If it is really too wet the powder will begin to cake somewhat.
 
Well I had some black pipe left over so I stuffed it in the chimney to add some length before a purchase. All I had was about 20" so I thought lets see what happens. It's hard to judge after one load but I was able to close the primary further than before and got some dancing whispy flames that came from nowhere in front of the glass, very cool. I couldn't close it all the way (it would go out) but a much more controlled (temp) burn.

I found a piece of pipe local, Simpson triple wall, but after my results tonight at a 20" increase could 36" be too much?? Plus the outside temp right now is 28* that is our average for this month.

Charlie
 
Triple wall being air cooled won't give as dramatic an improvement as insulated would. 36" will be fine.
 
added three feet of pipe today but wasn't home to really play around. So far I do see significant improvement. I've ran two loads today and both were better than a few days ago. I will post detailed results after a few days.

Thanks guys
 
I'm a bit confused...did you go up on the roof and add 3 feet? or put another 3 fot section up the chimney? I have a 2 story house with attic. my flue is 7x14 and I had lazy burns until I lined the chimney. That made all the difference in the world. My hunting buddy had a one story place and an old airtight with lazy fires and terrible glazing every year. I confinced him to get a liner and we put it in one saturday instead of hunting the afternoon. When I got home my phone rang and he thanked me and said he was sitting in the stove room with his family and everyone had taken off their sweatshirts and was enjoying the best fire they had had in years. Draft makes the difference.
 
I am no expert and i also am guilty of burning less than perfectly seasoned wood from time to time.but I can tell the difference when I burn nice dry wood and and less than dry wood. I also burn a "Smoke Dragon" which is not so sensitive to moisture and with a bit of a drafty house i feel that im burning relatively clean as i dont choke it on a fresh load and rarely see much smoke or buildup in the chimney. But my main concern here is your fuel source I dont know how "mom and pop" your local Lowes and Home Depot are but if you must purchase your wood DONT TRUST ANYONE who tells you their wood is seasoned. I have seen firewood for sale at big box stores wrapped in plastic (not on the ends) labeled as seasoned stacked outside during a rainstorm. If you purchase your fuel for your stove buy one of those moisture meters these guys talk about i do not own one but i know how long each split is stacked in the dry from the day I fell the tree to the day it gets burned. Besides you wouldnt buy gasoline for your car if you even suspected that it might have water in it would you. Treat your stove the same. That wood may have been seasoned when it was packaged but if it gets rained on it will take almost as long to dry as it did the first time probably longer in that plastic tuxedo. Now in your wood shed sit down and write I will not burn wet wood I will not burn wet wood I will not burn wet wood I will not burn wet wood I will not burn wet wood I will not burn wet wood I will not burn wet wood I will not burn wet wood I will not burn wet wood I will not burn wet wood I will not burn wet wood I will not burn wet wood I will not burn wet wood I will not burn wet wood I will not burn wet wood I will not burn wet wood I will not burn wet wood I will not burn wet wood 10,000 times
 
davidv said:
I'm a bit confused...did you go up on the roof and add 3 feet? or put another 3 fot section up the chimney? I have a 2 story house with attic. my flue is 7x14 and I had lazy burns until I lined the chimney. That made all the difference in the world. My hunting buddy had a one story place and an old airtight with lazy fires and terrible glazing every year. I confinced him to get a liner and we put it in one saturday instead of hunting the afternoon. When I got home my phone rang and he thanked me and said he was sitting in the stove room with his family and everyone had taken off their sweatshirts and was enjoying the best fire they had had in years. Draft makes the difference.

I added 3ft up on the roof. The setup is an independent flue, the stove sits in the corner of our front room. Things seem to be alot better. I can get better burns with more control. I can now close the air down more without losing the heat output. I can now cruise at 530 no problem before it was really hot or not hot enough. Big improvement even with marginal wood.
 
Good news, sounds like you've been drafted.
 
Final report, this morning I woke to a warm/cold stove, not a problem i loaded it at 1100 last night with about a half load and went to bed (long day). This morning it was 10-13* outside, the coldest it's been since the added length. Things took right off from some kindling and a starter and with the cold weather she came up to temp quick. I managed to close the primary almost all the way and with the blower running she cruised great about 480-500 on top, so it's about 530-550.

This seems to fix all the issues I've had. More control, better burns and an amazing amount of heat.

Another case closed by the detectives at Hearth.com

Thanks all,
Charlie
 
Glad to hear. I remember reading all the posts about draft being my problem, and the chimney being the engine that drives the stove, but until I actually experienced it, I didn't understand. Proper chimney will always be part of any install I do from now on.
 
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