Anyone use duct fans to pass heat?

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Mr. Kelly

Feeling the Heat
Hi Everyone,

I have a 6" hole in my ceiling. No that's not a bad thing. It's directly above the stove, that passes into a room upstairs. Fortunately, it was left there by a previous owner... presumably to pass heat from a stove!

Yesterday, I went to HD and bought a "duct fan" to stick in the hole in an attempt to move heat from the stove area to the rooms upstairs. The fan claims 250 CFM. Unfortunately, after one day's worth of being on, there's very little difference in the real-feel temps upstairs. In fact, there seems to be just a little more air flow through the hole than there was with the natural heat rising prior to installing the fan. I do feel a breeze, but that's about it. I was hoping for the feeling of nice heat being blown through the hole, similar to a forced-air vent system.

Anyone else using duct fans for this purpose?

Any ideas as to how to make this hole more effective? Different kind of fan?

Thanks for any help you can give!
 
There might be some code issues with the placement so close to the stove but anyway. I have something very similar a hole in ceiling with 6" insulated duct-work/fan running to a non-connected room but mine is a bit further from the stove. I didn't notice any real improvement until I added the blower to the stove, it seemed to double the heat output from the duct. It doesn't completely heat the intended room but keeps it at 60 or so.
 
A bit of code guidance here:

R602.8 Fireblocking required. Fireblocking shall be provided
to cut off all concealed draft openings (both vertical and horizontal)
and to form an effective fire barrier between stories, and
between a top story and the roof space. Fireblocking shall be
provided inwood-frame construction in the following locations.
1. In concealed spaces of stud walls and partitions, including
furred spaces and parallel rows of studs or staggered
studs; as follows:
1.. Vertically at the ceiling and floor levels.
2. At all interconnections between concealed vertical and
horizontal spaces such as occur at soffits, drop ceilings
and cove ceilings.
3. In concealed spaces between stair stringers at the top and
bottom of the run. Enclosed spaces under stairs shall
comply with Section R311.2.2.
4. At openings around vents, pipes, ducts, cables and wires
at ceiling and floor level, with an approved material to
resist the free passage of flame and products of combustion.
5. For the fireblocking of chimneys and fireplaces, see Section
R1003.19.


2.3. Return-air inlets shall not be located
within 10 feet (3048 mm) of any appliance
firebox or draft hood in the same
room or space.
3. Rooms or spaces containing solid-fuel burning
appliances, provided that return-air inlets are
located not less than 10 feet (3048 mm) from
the firebox of such appliances.
 
If the ceiling over the stove is uninsulated and large in area, I'd guess you are already sending a lot of heat up to the floor above. If you want that room warmer, you need to insulate that floor (or its ceiling) or burn more wood.

I think ducts (esp cool air returns) are better for moving heat laterally. It usually goes up pretty well by itself.
 
woodgeek said:
If the ceiling over the stove is uninsulated and large in area, I'd guess you are already sending a lot of heat up to the floor above. If you want that room warmer, you need to insulate that floor (or its ceiling) or burn more wood.

I think ducts (esp cool air returns) are better for moving heat laterally. It usually goes up pretty well by itself.

I've been having good luck (I think) with my basement wood stove and no ducts. I'm running a Blaze King King pretty hard in the basement and it stays between 74 - 78. The upstairs isn't noticeably warmer, but I do notice that my furnace is running a lot less (only runs a little in the middle of the night now). My basement ceiling is uninsulated. If I weren't "losing heat" (a good thing in this case) to the upstairs I would think it would be considerably hotter in the basement with the stove at 500+* and the fan on high for 24 hours at a time.

I'm considering putting in a couple vents to let some more warm air up...maybe I'll pull some cold air down and let it go up the stairs. The mind-debate rages on.
 
Thanks for the insight regarding code. Who would have thunk that one eensy hole would be such a big violation? Well, regardless of code abiders, I'll not likely be getting the plaster out any time soon to fill it. Plus, if it's already there, I might as well try to take advantage of it and get some heat traveling through it - for better or worse. Maybe there's a way to respect the code intent AND get a fan in there???? Any thoughts?

I'm rather surprised that I've had the building inspector over there, the installer, and several workers over there for stove estimates, and NONE of them mentioned a code violation. Plus, the fellow who installed it RECOMMENDED that I put the fan in there!

Yes, I do believe that some of the heat is radiating up there through the floors, but my thought was that it might be more than we feel. Fortunately, the upstairs does retain some of the heat, and the whole floor doesn't get much below 60 degrees up there, but for the sake of our young daughter, we were hoping for a few degrees warmer.

I'm wondering if anyone has used more powerful fans, and if that might make a difference? I really only feel a slight breeze coming up out of the hole, whereas, I was hoping for a good blast of air.

After reading another reply... I wonder if it might make sense to reverse the flow of my fan, and have the air from the upstairs room pulled down through the hole, toward the stove, leaving the room pressure in the upstairs room such that it would need to suck air out of the hallway, which leads to the stairs, where the most heat is coming up.
 
Mr. Kelly said:
After reading another reply... I wonder if it might make sense to reverse the flow of my fan, and have the air from the upstairs room pulled down through the hole, toward the stove, leaving the room pressure in the upstairs room such that it would need to suck air out of the hallway, which leads to the stairs, where the most heat is coming up.

Worth a try, that was what I was thinking.
 
There is one on ebay called Aero Flo. About $10 more than the Home depot model, but way better. I actually have one installed in a 7 x 7 passageway that was built thru the side of my double sided masonry FP that the stove sits in. I don't know if it was an old ash cleanout or what. I have a duct going up into the cavity above the stove sucking the hot air out and sending it out a few inches above the floor in the adjacent room. The model on ebay has metal fins and is rated up to like 260 degrees. The one you have going between floors doesn't feel like much when you hold your hand to it, but put a thermometer next to the opening in the bottom room and it's hard to argue against sucking 80 degree air and sending it into a 60 degree room. I think those fans are fairly efficient to run as well. If you're going to violate the code, load up on the CO and smoke detectors for the sake of your family. You should definitely block it off at the end of the season so it's compliant for the other 8 months of the year. Good luck.
 
Russ in Chicagoland said:
There is one on ebay called Aero Flo.

The one you have going between floors doesn't feel like much when you hold your hand to it, but put a thermometer next to the opening in the bottom room and it's hard to argue against sucking 80 degree air and sending it into a 60 degree room. .

Thanks for your thoughts...

What specifically makes you think that the Areo Flo would be much better than the one I got at HD?

You'd think if the one I got is supposed to move 250 CFM, that you'd feel a much bigger difference than I do. That's a lot of air moving around!

Yes, CO and smoke detectors are a must in any house. There's actually a C0 detector in the upstairs room, so if there's any problems, we should know quickly.


Thanks again, I may just order the fan you suggested, and do an A/B to see which one blows the most!
 
The ebay seller has a description of why his is better, Free air vs. Boosted air ratings. I have both running in my home. The ebay one is better, hands down. Both are somewhat noisy, but quickly fade into background noise. I wired each into an existing outlet using a small BX whip, then replaced the existing outlet with an outlet/switch combo to power the fans thru the switch.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...&_trkparms=algo=LVI&its=I&otn=2#ht_5131wt_941
 
Hey Russ,

Thanks for more info, and the link. I actually thought about this fan before I stumbled across the one at Home Depot. I may try both out, as you did, then decide.

By the way, what is a "BX whip"? To connect mine, I simply connected the three leads off the fan to a 3 wire zip cable and plugged 'er in. Somehow, I suspect I'll get yelled at by people on here for doing that, and if someone puts up a good case, I may reconsider that, too! Any thoughts?
 
BX is flexible armored cable. I went overkill and mounted a handybox with cover to the fan housing over where the wires exit the fan, then the BX over to existing outlet, just so no wiring would be exposed inside the wall. I didn't care for how they both have bare wires just hanging out there, I prefered to have the wire connections enclosed in the single switch handybox. Just be careful when mounting the box to the fan housing that your sheet metal screws don't protrude where the fan blades will hit.
 
In terms of moving air faster, just realize that the faster the air travels the more heat it will lose.
 
dispatcher101 said:
In terms of moving air faster, just realize that the faster the air travels the more heat it will lose.

Hmmm... interesting point. Thanks for the thought.

Typically, heat moves to cold, right? I don't think heat can just go "poof" and it's gone... it has to end up somewhere. And if I get the theory correctly, even if the heat is moving faster, the heat should still dissipate in the room and change the energy level of the cold, thus making it feel overall warmer, albeit perhaps a little more subtly. I suspect, that when the air is moving slower, one could get the feeling of direct heat coming up through the hole by means of a direct path of warm air molecules, whereas when it's moving faster, the heat more quickly dissipates into the surrounding air, making the stream of air feel less "warm". Does that make any sense? I wonder. I'm just arm-chair philosophizing!
 
as far as code goes, the reason your inspector hasn't said anything is because that hole is NOT a cold air return for your furnace and it is not in a concealed space. it violates no code. fire blocking and sealing is only required in CONCEALED spaces. to keep fire from moving through unseen spaces rapidly.

as far as making it more effective, I would actually open the hole square, frame it, and add a decorative grate up top. That's how they did it in the old days...
 
Dakotas Dad said:
as far as code goes, the reason your inspector hasn't said anything is because that hole is NOT a cold air return for your furnace and it is not in a concealed space. it violates no code. fire blocking and sealing is only required in CONCEALED spaces. to keep fire from moving through unseen spaces rapidly.

as far as making it more effective, I would actually open the hole square, frame it, and add a decorative grate up top. That's how they did it in the old days...

Hmm - that does seem to agree to the building code I was trying to read the other day (geez, maybe they could write them in English one day...)

So, that seems to mean that if you have an un-finished ceiling in the basement with exposed joists, there is no issue with cutting a hole and adding a grate in the main level floor?

What would be required if there was a dropped cieling in the basement? It was suggested to me that it should be installed using regular ductwork with a grate on the dropped ceiling tile downstairs and a grate on the floor upstairs, connected with metal ductwork.
 
KB007 said:
Hmm - that does seem to agree to the building code I was trying to read the other day (geez, maybe they could write them in English one day...)

So, that seems to mean that if you have an un-finished ceiling in the basement with exposed joists, there is no issue with cutting a hole and adding a grate in the main level floor?

What would be required if there was a dropped cieling in the basement? It was suggested to me that it should be installed using regular ductwork with a grate on the dropped ceiling tile downstairs and a grate on the floor upstairs, connected with metal ductwork.

Yes you could do it, unless your local inspector doesn't allow it, but I doubt it's a modification that needs/requires inspection/permit.. could in some circumstances, but usually not (ie: in a historic home). I personally hate dropped cielings, for many reasons. I would build a wood or steel box the size I needed to fit the grate, install, be happy. The code referenced is all about concealed spaces.. if you could not have any holes between floors.. it sure would make it hard to use the stairs..
 
BeGreen said:
A bit of code guidance here:

R602.8 Fireblocking required. Fireblocking shall be provided
to cut off all concealed draft openings (both vertical and horizontal)
and to form an effective fire barrier between stories, and
between a top story and the roof space.

4. At openings around vents, pipes, ducts, cables and wires
at ceiling and floor level, with an approved material to
resist the free passage of flame and products of combustion.
5. For the fireblocking of chimneys and fireplaces, see Section
R1003.19.


2.3. Return-air inlets shall not be located
within 10 feet (3048 mm) of any appliance
firebox or draft hood in the same
room or space.
3. Rooms or spaces containing solid-fuel burning
appliances, provided that return-air inlets are
located not less than 10 feet (3048 mm) from
the firebox of such appliances.


I wonder how we're interpreting this code. If you look at the first paragraph, it indicates the code is in reference to concealed spaces AND for providing a fireblock between stories. This could imply that the code references BOTH scenarios. This is also supported by #4, which says that openings around ducts, which may also include the hole created for the duct itself, whether filled or unfilled. This would likely preclude my "hole" from being legal.

If this isn't convincing, the points 2.3 and 3 also seem to make my little hole rather dubious. If, after all, the intent of this code is to prevent fire and gasses from spreading, my hole certainly doesn't help.
 
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