Homemade Camp Stove

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Chad Smith

New Member
Feb 10, 2010
27
South Louisiana
Gentlemen, it's been very interesting reading through the forums. I mainly took interest and found this site off other references on the internet. Mainly because of my latest project.

The issue: While spending the night at my deer camp with my 13 year old daughter, the electricity went out. We awoke to the realization that my electrical heater was not functioning at about 2 a.m. (quite a wonderful feeling). I then realized that it was not in my best interest to rely on heat from electricity when the electricity itself was being supplied to far out areas and was not dependable.

The details: My "deer camp" is actually an 8x20 office trailer that I converted into a two room camper. It has a kitchen area on one side and a bunk area on the other that are connected through an open doorway.

The project: I decided to make a small pot bellied stove that could burn coal or small pieces of wood. I was able to locate an old metal deep well water tank that seemed the perfect size. The picture may seem large, but the tank itself is approximately 18" in diameter and about 24" deep. I shortened the tank a bit from it's original length. After shortening it, I capped it with some 1/4" plate steel. I then had my shop's welder cut a hole and braze a pipe onto the top for venting, (4"). I cut the doorway (9"x9") and did most of the small project welding myself, which included the edging, hinge, latch, heat plate, and legs. I have a grating cut to size for inside to keep the fresh embers off the bottom. I have burned it a few times. It does heat up nicely, but obviously still needs some work. My last item would be cutting the vent into the front. I prefer to cut a square opening underneath the door and use a slide vent. Once I get the whole thing finished off, I'll clean the whole thing up again and paint it a nice uniform stove black. This may seem very amateur,..and it is. However, it is my first stove project and I'm pretty proud of myself so far. I know the trickiest part will be the installation, but I have until next hunting season to get that right. :) I'd appreciate your input.
 

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I dont know if i would have my stove pipe brazed in i might be worried about that at overfire temps or even high temp. Do you have any kind of baffle in it.
 
No baffle yet. Being that it is such a small pipe, I wasn't sure if a baffle was a good idea. I didn't want to sacrifice safely venting the smoke for heat. Can you give me more input on that?

The brazed pipe hasn't seemed to be an issue yet. I had it hot for about 6 hours last weekend just to cure the paint. He had to braze it because we were short on steel pipe at the time. He did lay about a 3/8" thick bead all the way around. I'll fire it up cherry hot this weekend if I get a chance and check it out again. I'll certainly change it out if you think temp will be an issue.
 
You deer camp has electricity!!!!!!!!!!!!






ColdHunter said:
Gentlemen, it's been very interesting reading through the forums. I mainly took interest and found this site off other references on the internet. Mainly because of my latest project.

The issue: While spending the night at my deer camp with my 13 year old daughter, the electricity went out. We awoke to the realization that my electrical heater was not functioning at about 2 a.m. (quite a wonderful feeling). I then realized that it was not in my best interest to rely on heat from electricity when the electricity itself was being supplied to far out areas and was not dependable.

The details: My "deer camp" is actually an 8x20 office trailer that I converted into a two room camper. It has a kitchen area on one side and a bunk area on the other that are connected through an open doorway.

The project: I decided to make a small pot bellied stove that could burn coal or small pieces of wood. I was able to locate an old metal deep well water tank that seemed the perfect size. The picture may seem large, but the tank itself is approximately 18" in diameter and about 24" deep. I shortened the tank a bit from it's original length. After shortening it, I capped it with some 1/4" plate steel. I then had my shop's welder cut a hole and braze a pipe onto the top for venting, (4"). I cut the doorway (9"x9") and did most of the small project welding myself, which included the edging, hinge, latch, heat plate, and legs. I have a grating cut to size for inside to keep the fresh embers off the bottom. I have burned it a few times. It does heat up nicely, but obviously still needs some work. My last item would be cutting the vent into the front. I prefer to cut a square opening underneath the door and use a slide vent. Once I get the whole thing finished off, I'll clean the whole thing up again and paint it a nice uniform stove black. This may seem very amateur,..and it is. However, it is my first stove project and I'm pretty proud of myself so far. I know the trickiest part will be the installation, but I have until next hunting season to get that right. :) I'd appreciate your input.
 
How thick is the steel, and what's the approx weight of the stove?

All in all, looks like good work.
 
I'm feeding off the panel of the lease's camp,.. which was built some 30 years ago and is off in a cow pasture. There is electricity and make-shift plumbing. Like I said,.. not the most reliable area.
 
The front plate is 1/4". The rest of the tank itself is a bit thinner,.. but I didn't get an exact measurement. I can pick it up fairly easy and estimate it to weigh around 60lbs without the grate inside of it.
 
If its not steel pipe what is it. Its not galvanized is it? I dont know a baffle might help you get better combustion and keep the flue temps down a little. Keep more heat in the stove. you dont have to bring the baffle all the way out maybe half way. Just enough to keep the flames from suckin straight up the flue maybe half the lenght of the stove. Braze starts melting about 800 degrees flue temps get to that or above every once in a while.
 
I'll have to check on the pipe,.. I know it's not galvanized. I know there are issues with galvanized emitting dangerous fumes when heated or burned. We had concerns that the tank itself may have even had some galvanized material mixed in with it,.. however it was very old and I took off all surface coatings in an effort to alleviate that or lead issues. The entire surface smoked while the paint cured for the first hour that I fired it up, but it burned pretty clean after that. I intend on using it dozens of times in the back yard before installing it into my camp prior to next year's hunting season. I may try a baffle then. It wouldn't be difficult to locate a proper steel pipe and experiment with a baffle. Our deer season is over here now. I have the benefit of not having to put in in use for another 8 months. :)
 
Reminds me of a stove in the shop of a house I rented. It was made from a compressor tank. Not airtight. It was great for taking the chill off. Looks like it'll do the trick.
Brazing is probably less than ideal for a stove, but might be fine unless it runs away on you. Is it cast iron pipe?
 
Greetings: I think you stove will put out some good heat. It reminds me of the barrel stove I made and heated my 3000 square foot farmhouse with for over 15 years. It was a Sotz kit that used a standard 55 gallon steel drum. Airtight door, legs and flue collar. I used the same barrel for those 15 years and never a problem. It never overheated as the air draft had a damper that worked well to control max temps.
FB in Vt.
 
My shop mechanic told me this morning that the pipe brazed on top was a piece of hi-heat muffler pipe that came off one of our large compressors. He claims it is probability electro-galvanized. That does raise a little more concern. I will check more into the possibility that me properly curing the stove will eliminate the concerns of fumes later on. If not,.. I may go ahead and change that pipe out to steel, (which will take care of the brazing concerns also). I plan on getting him to do some detail cutting tomorrow morning on the front under the door for the vent I had mentioned. I'll take another picture or two after.
 
Being that it will be vented from the bottom,. I planned on installed some type of safety apparatus on the inside of the vent opening. Nothing that would restrict the airflow. I was thinking a strategically placed diagonal panel on the inside of the opening accompanied by a small piece of fine mesh expanded metal over the opening, (both properly attached obviously). My thought was that it would then pull air from as low as possible. I know that would only be about 12" lower than what you're saying, but I thought that may make a difference. It is blatantly obvious in the trailer during the winter months that hot air rises, as it was cold nearer to the floor.

I never though of adding sand also. I only had the heavy grate in mind up until this point. Good idea to consider.
 
If it were me, I'd be getting rid of that exhaust pipe, and just use some flat stock bent into a 6in circle and welded to it to make a stove collar. That way you can use very easily accessible stove pipe and chimney connectors (6 is easier to find that 4 in), damper, etc.

I'm afraid that with a 4 in exit, it's not going to have a large enough exhaust and will leave you and your camp smelling like camp fire.

I'd rather use the 6 in then damper it down with an inline pipe damper when the door is closed.

just my thought.

pen
 
I'm new to the wood burning world. But I havent seen any wood stoves with 4" exits. I second that 6" exit recommendation. Sounds like a better idea. But, I haven't built any stoves either. I have two stoves in the house one is a 6" oval top collar and the other a 5' rear exit, Which must be increased to 6" per manufacturer's instructions. Sounds like a fun project though. I've thought about building one with a barrel kit for my shed. Although, I could probably find a used cast iron box for less than the cost of the kit. Good luck!
 
Don't you think that the 4" is adequate because of the size of the stove? As I said, the dimensions are approximately 18" round and 24" deep. (I'll throw a tape on it tonight). That's not much larger than a big beach ball. And I've already located all the venting pipe I would need so I'm not too concerned about that.

Please,.. give me as much input as you can. I like all the points that all of you are making, but please also include "why" since i'm new to this and not an engineer. (LOL).

I'm letting all of it sink in.
 
If you have all the pipe, then go for it.

My point is that it is easier to find the 6 in stuff.

Additionally, I am certain that 6 in would vent it way. The 4 in may do a fine job too. It is just not a guarantee.

How are you going to pass this through the cabin to the outside world? Turn an old window into a thimble? through the ceiling?

pen
 
I have two options. The place I want to put it is not far from a sliding window. I could make a "transfer panel" to shoot the pipe through the window,.. however,.. I think I'm leaning more towards placing the stove directly in the corner and going straight through the roof. Being that it is a converted mobil office, it only has a layer of drywall type ceiling panel, and a metal roof to go through. I don't think it would be too hard either way. Obviously I would make a box for the ceiling if I go that way to dispense the heat away from the panel. I don't think there could be more than 5" between the ceiling panel and the roof metal, especially in the corner.
 
Ah,.. I understand better about the grating vs. the sand. I initially though the grating would serve the purpose of keeping the initial hot embers off the bottom to save the bottom. You're saying it may cause additional over-ventilation on the fire. Gotcha. If I understand right, this would cause the fire to not only burn hotter but the fuel to burn quicker, right?
 
I dont thinnk he has any room in his stove for fire brick or rock . I think the sand is a good idea put a steel pipe on that baby just for peace of mind man. If that braze fails you will be hatin it and metal fume fever from galvanized is no groan bro im a welder and ive had it my share of times. Once you get it rockin youll wonder how you slept in that trailer without it.
 
I had considered the firebricks. That's a good point. Am I hearing that I should definitely "NOT" put the intake down low? Some more input on that please. Wouldn't that be the quickest way to move the cold air if it was taken from the lowest point possible?
 
I think I can find some thin acceptable ceramic bricks from an old insert that would serve well for the brick idea. And I think I'll take all the advice about the pipe,.. gonna change it out as soon as I find a compatible piece.

More input on the vent position?
 
ColdHunter said:
Regarding the brazing,.. it was brazed with brass and the melting point is 1660 F. That doesn't solve the pipe issue however.

True, but any metal can fail at temperatures below the melting point. I don't know exactly what that would be for brazing, but I know that it's much lower than steel. I really don't think it's likely to be an issue, but if there ever was a project worth over-engineering it's a box full of fire.
 
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