psst! It's here!

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Shari

Minister of Fire
Oct 31, 2008
2,338
Wisconsin
Our LONG awaited install of our blue/black Jotul Oslo took place this morning! Hooray! We have had two initial burn-ins so far and hope to have the last one late tonight (I WILL stay up to do it).

I know, I know - pictures or it didn't happen. :)

1st picture - what the fireplace looked like last year right after removing the 1950's glass doors.
2nd picture - stone all cleaned up, firebox painted
3rd picture - stove in place!

I need a few suggestion here though: Take a look at the verticle sides of the stone next to fireplace firebox. The stone was notched to fit the doors. We want to do something cosmetically to cover this up on both sides of the original firebox opening. Does anyone have any ideas what to use to fix this area?

Shari

fireplace_stove3.jpg


fireplace_stove1a.jpg


fireplace_stove2a.jpg
 
Abooooout Time! Enjoy Shari!!!
 
Nice stove I think its my next choice my buddy loves his.....
 
Beautiful. Pour the coal to that sucker and enjoy it.
 
*THUD*

Enjoy Shari !!!!!

It's about damned time !!
 
Doing The Dixie Eyed Hustle said:
*THUD*

Enjoy Shari !!!!!

It's about damned time !!

Ha! Ha! What'd ya mean "THUD"? It's only taken us a year to get this far. :) Funny thing is our house was just simply buzzing today as the plumber was also here installing the 'mandated' city sewer. With cost of stove and sewer installation, all done today, I think we are tipping the scales at about $12,000. Now we surely are in the poor house! :)

Shari
 
Shari, have you given any thought to an ornamental metal trim? My shop does alot of that type of fabrication. Mabey a hammered flat bar around the perimeter, 3-sided, with a few decorative hammered rivets for looks. By the looks of things, a few attaching tabs could be welded to the fascia, and anchored to the inside of the firebox, keeping the attaching anchors from readily being seen. Try contacting a local ornamental railing shop, they should be able to give you all kinds of ideas. Imagination and pocketbook are the only limiting factors with this. BTW, your set-up looks really good.
 
BK, Thanks for picking on the boo-boo in the stone I mentioned. I have NO idea why anyone would have installed doors like that and now we have to figure out what to do. There is a 'settlement' a few miles north of us that has a winery, blacksmith, etc. I thought we'd stop in at the blacksmith shop and see if he has any ideas. We can't go around the 3 sides of the old fireplace opening because the upper stone sticks out about 1-1/2" farther than the rest of the face. We also have a very well known lannon stone quarry nearby so we might look into veneer on the vertical sides.

Shari
 
Oh Shari, trust me, you can do anything you want with metal. The upper stone protrusion is not a big issue at all. This just makes the fascia "stand proud" of the side pieces at the top. Any gaps between the steel and stone can be grouted in after the fascia is installed. Easy DIY project. Take a look at www.kingsmetals.com , the types of materials will seem to be endless. I like the idea of using a local blacksmith. if the cost fits your budget, you most probably will end up with a superior, custom fit product. Just think of a custom surround that matches the finish of the new heater. Beautiful in my book.
 
Ha! Ha! What’d ya mean “THUD”? It’s only taken us a year to get this far. Funny thing is our house was just simply buzzing today as the plumber was also here installing the ‘mandated’ city sewer. With cost of stove and sewer installation, all done today, I think we are tipping the scales at about $12,000. Now we surely are in the poor house!

But its a warm house :)
 
Looks great, enjoy. Do you have room to use the side loading door? Looks kind a tight.
 
Awesome Shari, it looks great. Now we need to see FIRE.
 
Todd,

That is up to debate yet. The door opens 3/4+ of the way so maybe it would work. Considering we have the blue/black and the fact the Oslo is a known 'ash dripper' I really don't think it will be a problem just using the front door because the blue/black cleans off easy.

PS Did I mention we got the blue/black finish for the same price as the plain black? :)

Shari
 
The side door loading is sweet on this stove. Try it, but don't be afraid to bring it out 4" more on the hearth if need be. Better to add a hearth extension and get the full benefit of the stove.
 
Shari, Congratulations on finally getting your new stove. Looks great and I love the horse steamer!
 
It's beautiful! you must be thrilled with it.

One of the things I like most about this site is the diversity of members and reading about things like metal fabrication. (always wanted to learn to weld and shoe horses).
 
New sewer hook-up, how exciting! I'd give anything to be able to pour paint down the sink again! LOL! That's a nice looking stove Shari, enjoy the heat.
 
If at all possible, move the stove out and run the flue into the back of the stove w/ a cleanout box. Then you can use your side load door. It is a real nice feature of this stove.

I second the idea of fabricating a wrought iron bar trim to cover the groove cut in the stone. Paint it to match the color of the stove and it will look real nice. It doesn't need to be anything fancy.
 
Congratulations on the new stove...I like BK's tin knocking solution to trim and frame over the vertical lines. hummm no blower for that monster? The way the stove is tucked in there it you may need it. Typical cast stove...

...looks beautiful. :)
 
Finally, Shari. Your patience and perseverence paid off. The stove looks great. By now, most of the break-in/paint curing burns have probably been completed. Enjoy many, many hours of pleasant warmth and relaxing moments with your new jewell. The short learning curve associated with a new stove is also wonderful. Each new learning moment relating to starting the fire, overnight burns, loading techinques, etc. will add to the experience. Best wishes and good health, John_M
 
Hum-ma-na-Hum-ma-na-Hum-ma-na . . . looks mighty sharp and be-u-tiful Shari.

You've been very patient and at long last you've got a fantastic looking stove in a fantastic looking install.

As Beetle-Kill and Cycloxer mentioned I think I would go with some decorative metal work to "frame" the fireplace opening . . . if done right it could really compliment the install and highlight the beauty of both the stove and the fireplace brick.

I would also second (or third) other member's suggestions to pull out the stove so you can use the side door . . . a) the side door in my opinion is one of the best features of the Oslo and without it you're not getting the full Oslo Experience and b) while it is true you can wipe off the ashes easily enough with the enamel it will become a real pain to do every time you open the front door . . . trust me on this one . . . you will want to use the side door.
 
Okay, ladies & gents, thinking over your comments about bringing the stove forward. Here's some details on our install

1. We originally wanted the stove out further but the installer had to use various angled pipe to snake through our old fireplace damper/smoke shelf area using the top flue exit from the stove. We have a solid ss insulated liner in the interior masonry chimney. The installer said we have around 11.5 ft of straight liner plus adding the various angles adds about 3' to this total. The installer did not use the rear flue exit because it would have added one 90 degree angle on the stove plus another 90 degree to bring it straight up - an idea he didn't think would be good when adding to existing angles going through the previous damper area.

2. I am adding a side view photo showing how far out the stove is already. We have about 6" of hearth still remaining in front of the stove. This is a raised hearth with just ember protection on the floor.

3. The oil furnace was shut off this morning. It was 68 degrees in here at that time, now it is up to 73 degrees with the stove top running around 450 degrees. It is 18 degrees outside with no wind. We have a ceiling fan running about 12 feet from the stove and a floor fan blowing air from the bedroom wing of the home towards the stove room. So as far as getting heat into the room, we are doing fine but willing to listen to advice from others. (Will we adjust to being this warm (hope so!)!)

4. Yes, I can load via the side door even though the door does not open all the way.

Here the side view picture:

fireplace_stove4a.jpg


Shari
 
Okay, ladies & gents, thinking over your comments about bringing the stove forward. Here's some details on our install

1. We originally wanted the stove out further but the installer had to use various angled pipe to snake through our old fireplace damper/smoke shelf area using the top flue exit from the stove. We have a solid ss insulated liner in the interior masonry chimney. The chase is insulated top and bottom. The installer said we have around 11.5 ft of straight liner plus adding the various angles adds about 3' to this total. The installer did not use the rear flue exit because it would have added one 90 degree angle on the stove plus another 90 degree to bring it straight up - an idea he didn't think would be good when adding to existing angles going through the previous damper area.

2. I am adding a side view photo showing how far out the stove is already. We have about 6" of hearth still remaining in front of the stove. This is a raised hearth with just ember protection on the floor.

3. The oil furnace was shut off this morning. It was 68 degrees in here at that time, now it is up to 73 degrees with the stove top running around 450 degrees. It is 18 degrees outside with no wind. We have a ceiling fan running about 12 feet from the stove and a floor fan blowing air from the bedroom wing of the home towards the stove room. So as far as getting heat into the room, we are doing fine but willing to listen to advice from others. (Will we adjust to being this warm (hope so!)!)

4. Yes, I can load via the side door even though the door does not open all the way.

Here the side view picture:

fireplace_stove4a.jpg


Shari
 
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