General / Oslo running questions, ...and 'resonant' sound...?

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KevinK

Member
Jan 15, 2010
57
Hudson Valley NY
Just finished my install, ...and have a couple questions on the (Oslo) stove. temps in general.

Running Temps:
Where are most placing the stovetop therm? ...and how much difference are you reading between the stovetop and flu?
Using both Condor therms, ...I have my stovetop in the left rear corner, ...and the flu pipe about 20" up from stovetop surface. Generally I read around 350-400 on the stovetop, ...500+/- in the pipe.

Resonant 'sound':
OK, ...so I have some hot coals in the stove, ...I throw in a few good logs, ...crack open the cleanout door to get it firing up a bit, ....definitely something only for the short term. Anyway, ... if I leave this door open for a minute or two, ...and let the fire roar (which it sure will), ...you begin to here this resonant, ...almost HHHHHMMMMMMMMMMMM. Now, ...I definitely don't run the stove like this, ...but I'm curious. Is this just the air flowing through the secondary burn tubes? ...because if you look up at them, ...you can clearly see the flames from the holes, ....looks like the tubes in a gas grill.
It doesn't do it all the time, but when it does, ...I can 'kill' the resonance sound (which I do) by simply shutting cleanout door. Once I get the fire cooking, ...all the doors are shut, ...and I adjust the air lever to where I want it.

I read a post on this forum where someone had a poor seal on the cleanout door, ...based on how this thing roars when that door is open (obviously plentiful air) if it did not seal when closed, ...OMG, ...I'm guessing the whole stove would glow.

Lastly, ... I've read (in this forum) of the "US" plate, ...and "Euro" plate...?? are there different air blockoff plates?


Thanks,
Kevin
 
Kevin,

My Oslo coasts right along at 450-500 with a good load of well seasoned wood. I believe the book tells us not to use the cleanout door for starting a fire. I honestly haven't opened mine since install on Thursday. If new logs don't want to catch right away I stand by the stove (or sit in the rocking chair next to the stove) and crack the side door open for just a few minutes until the logs catch. Air intake is set at full for a time and then I crank down the air.

EDIT: The book says thermometers can be placed in any of the four corners on the top of the stove. Ours in placed on the right front corner.

Shari
 
book says to put the therm on any of the four corners of the top of the stove. Book also says the best operating temp is between 450- 600.
 
The only cracks and damage I have heard of on this stove was due to owner negligence using the ash pan door to start the fire. Note, this is a very costly repair if the base casting surrounding the grate is cracked. Instead, leave the front or side door open just slightly to start the fire. Perhaps the owner does not have the manual? If so, look on Jotul's website for a downloadable copy.

Warning. Do not, at any time, operate this stove with the ash
pan door open. This condition will lead to overfiring and will
damage the stove. This damage is not covered under warranty.
Only empty the ash drawer before refueling, when the fire is low
or out. The ash door should be open only long enough to empty
the ash drawer and then securely closed. Inspect the gasket on
the ash pan door regularly and replace as necessary.
 
That "resonant sound" is not one you want to hear. I'm not sure exactly what is vibrating to cause it but it isn't good. The only time I hear it is when I have to shovel the ash out of the opening to allow the pan back in and the fire isn't as cold as it should be but sometimes you can't let the fire get low enough to avoid it (or you think you have and you didn't). Opening the ash door to encourage the fire is not a good practice. Use the side door instead.
 
Stove top temp for me is generally 400-600 . . . best temps seem to be 450-550 degrees F.

Placement of thermometer: manual recommends one of the top four corners. I experimented a bit and found that my hottest corner was consistently in the right rear . . . probably due to the way I load the stove . . . the coals and ash get heaped up higher there if I don't take the time to rake down the coals and level them out.

Temp difference between the flue and stove top . . . not really sure . . . never took the time to make any comparisons.

DO NOT use the ash pan door to get the fire going . . . I would be lying if I said I never did . . . rookie mistake . . . after reading of the damage that can occur by doing this . . . I quickly changed my wayward burning habits. Listen to Shari . . . opening the door a crack is a much, much better and safer (as long as you're there watching the fire) thing to do. The sound you're hearing . . . does it kind of sound like the sound of rushing air like you would get from say a hot forge with the air rushing in to superheat the metal . . . yeah . . . it's a really bad idea to do this.
 
That sound is the ash pan vibrating due to the increasing onrush of air as the "forge" gets things really hot and increases the draft. It's something I do myself to get a stubborn load going, but usually for less than 30 seconds.
 
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