What do you do to prevent smoke roll out?

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Swedishchef

Minister of Fire
Jan 17, 2010
3,275
Inuvik, Northwest Territories
Hey guys

Another thread I started turned into a smoke conversation.
I was wondering: what do you do to prevent smoke rollout when reloading?
After reading: http://woodheat.org/woodpile/index....gram&catid=20:emissions-regulations&Itemid=10 I now understand why smoke comes out: unless you have a super great draft, smoke rollout is possible:

"non-catalytic stoves (by far the majority) have a baffle that occupies the whole top of the firebox except for a narrow slot just above and behind the door. This slot is only about 1 1/2 inches wide and forces the exhaust to exit the top front of the firebox and then travel back through a flat chamber above the baffle to the flue collar where it leaves the stove. This works fine when the door is closed, but when it is opened to put more wood on the fire, the exhaust can spill out the top of the door opening if it isn’t all drawn through the narrow exhaust slot. The only thing to prevent open-door smoke spillage is very strong chimney draft, which is produced by tall chimneys that ideally run straight up from the stove flue collar. Lots of homeowners don’t have chimneys that produce enough draft to prevent smoke spillage, given the obstacles created by advanced non-catalytic combustion systems.”

I know that some companies have designed side loading doors in addition to the front one. However this technology has not yet become the standard for stove companies.

How do you guys prevent smoke roll out??

Had I known what Jotul and other companies had to offer before purchasing my stove (side door), I would have done so. I have 4 feet of double wall stove pipe going to an outdoor 2100 chimney. My draft is good but it's not spectacular. Unfortunately, when I bought the stove I have I was not away of this forum at the time. Yesterday I was able to re-load my stove about 5-6 times without any smoke spillage. It is a science. I open a nearby window, open the bypass damper, open the door. At this point, I make SURE that my primary air intake damper is CLOSED> This prevents that damn air from pushing my smoke out the door. The fact is that the draft is going straight up the chimney and it is pulling air from the room the stove is in, not using primary air. It seemed to have worked. A big puff of smoke makes my house stink and I hate it, especially when it’s just a small flamed fire.

Andrew
 
I think that in general the hotter your reload is, the less problem you;ll have. So, try opening up the primary for a minute to get as much hot air into the flu and get it pulling before opening the door. Also, just cracking the door and letting it sit that way for a few seconds can help. Maybe closing the primary as you open the door will redirect air, my stove doesn't work that way.
 
I had this problem with our VC Vigilant until I realized I was doing things incorrectly. If I had it set on horizontal burn and opened either door but especially the top griddle door, smoke would escape. I knew I had to move the handle into vertical mode to open the front door. When I started putting it into vertical mode before loading through the top door no more smoke escaped. Sometimes it helps to crack the front doors just a wee bit to get a good draft moving. Then open the top door.
 
One thing I like about my older Castine is that (2 door model.) When loading I only open 1 door, maybe this is why I don't experience smoke "roll out".
 
Since I was a little boy it has been natural to open the draft fully for a bit before opening the door. This gets the flue hotter to help create that draft. However, with our present stove I found that the need is minimal even with our shorter than normal chimney. We just don't get smoke when we open the firebox door. My wife has opened it quickly a few times but still no smokey house.

So open the draft full for a minute or so and then when you open the firebox door, crack it a bit and stop for a moment. Then continue to full open. That and good dry wood should solve any problems.
 
To minimize smoke rollout, here's what I've always done:

1. Open main air inlet fully to produce maximum heat from the coal bed or ongoing fire. If it's a small coal bed, you might need to wait a little while before the bed brightens up as much as it's going to.

2. If the stove has one, open the bypass, and wait a bit to allow more heat into the flue to warm it up for better draft.

3. Open the loading door just a crack. Leave it like this long enough to get a good amount of heat going up the flue. This produces maximum draft.

4. Very gradually, open the door the rest of the way. If smoke wants to spill out, go back to step 3 and try to get the flue warmer for stronger draft.

If the stove has multiple doors that could be used for loading (e.g., my Oslo has front and side), one door may be much less prone to smoke spill than the other. Also, as others have noted, if the loading door is a double door, you may get less smoke spill of you only open one side. In general, the larger the opening, the more prone to smoke spill it will be.

The general strength of the draft plays a big role here. If you have the kind of chimney that tries to suck you into the stove when you open a door, you might be able to be pretty sloppy about the above procedure, and still have smoke-free loading. If you have weaker draft, especially on a warmer day with little firebox heat, you might get a little smoke regardless of how careful you are.
 
My Jotul Oslo has zero smoke with the side door open. In fact, I sometimes leave it open a crack for a couple of minutes to get a fresh load going better, quicker.

I guess I did not realize this could be a problem with some stove/draft combinations.
 
Personally for me, I don't have smoke rollout problems. I don't even open that door till there is coals in there, and coals don't smoke.
If you have smoke problems, you may be loading too soon.
 
Backwoods Savage said:
Since I was a little boy it has been natural to open the draft fully for a bit before opening the door.

Always a good idea IMO. Helps ignite any gases that may have built up while the stove is shut down. I lost a few nose hairs to backpuffing before I learned that trick.
 
On the Mansfield I just do the "crack the door" trick for a few seconds and when I open the door do it slowly so I dont create a vacuum at the front of the stove. straight up chimley fluke though and that keeps the creosole down in my metalasbestos. All without a catalytic converter!
 
I rarely have problems with smoke rolling out . . . but for whatever reason I've typically either opened up the air a bit before opening or just cracked the door a bit before opening it all the way . . . almost more by instinct . . . probably learned behavior from burning with the other woodstoves in the past which often had issues with smoke roll-out. I also should mention that typically I am not opening the door to reload the stove until the coaling stage so typically there is no smoke.
 
Set the primary air fully open and then open the door slowly. Works like a charm.
 
Yeah I think if that fails you just have a weak draft and you can't blame the smoke roll out on the stove. Your trick of cracking a nearby door or window will help.
 
I use my Tjernlund AD-1 draft inducer fan. Have had it for 8 years with no problems. It has a speed control so I get the right amount of draft based on the weather, wood, etc. And it's made in the USA so I like that. www.Tjernlund.com. Here is a video I found.
 
Just happened to stumble across that video did ya?
 
Gosh, what a coincidence. IP tracks to tjfans.com in Minnesota. Look, man...if you want to peddle your stuff here, you really need to have a chat with the Webmaster about advertising rates. Rick
 
PLR822 said:
I use my Tjernlund AD-1 draft inducer fan. Have had it for 8 years with no problems. It has a speed control so I get the right amount of draft based on the weather, wood, etc. And it's made in the USA so I like that. www.Tjernlund.com. Here is a video I found.

I'm going to rant for a minute.

Let me get this straight, this is your grand plan for marketing your product? By lamely spamming forum boards? Because all of your posts on this forum have been spam thus far. When the focus of your marketing and advertising is on attempting to scam people (and creating false testimonials is a version of a scam) it devalues your product and your business. Everyone here is now skeptical of your product. Good job.
 
How do I spell relief from smoke rolling out from my stove ... N-E-W S-T-O-V-E.

I have tried everything mentioned here and then some. Nothing works. So, I'm getting another stove. North/ South loading, smoke exists the back of the stove not the front, and both the main and secondary air intakes are direct, not channeled through a maze of pipes.
 
Yeah, but you don't have a Tjernlund draft inducer. %-P
 
I've ordered one for my '36 Ford pickup. I'm betting that old Merc flathead puts out 50 more HP with the Tjernlund Turbo. Rick
 
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