Woodstove Trouble. At our wit's end!

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Kazimerj

New Member
Feb 25, 2010
2
Northeast
Hi People,

I have been having an issue with my woodstove/wood furnace all year and have been having a hard time figuring out what to do. I have asked numerous people and have been given many suggestions, but none have worked. Hopefully someone here might be able to help. Here is my setup. Bought a house last year that has a US Stove hotblast forced air wood stove. Stove worked great last year. Almost kept the house too warm. This year I began using it again, but every few days I get smoke puffing back into the house a couple hours after filling it. It is a pain during the day, but even worse when we are sleeping. To correct the problem, I spin the bottom dial out, which allows the fire to almost run away. Stove pipe temp goes from 250 degrees to 400 degrees in a matter of minutes. When I try to slow it down by spinning the dial back in, I have to do it extremely slow or it starts puffing in the house again. I have a 6" outlet on the stove, which is connected to a 6" stove pipe which runs up and then out the wall to an 8 inch double wall stainless chimney pipe. I have verified that the chimney height is high enough and have even changed my cap to a special wind resistant type cap. I am burning wood that was cut and split in October of 2008. I clean my pipe every weekend and have not had any build up as of yet. It also seems to do it if there is a good bed of coals in it and I load it with wood. I cannot figure out what has changed between this year and last. I don't seem to be doing any thing different. My wife and I are about to our wits end with the stove and are expecting our first kid any day now. We are getting tired of waking up to a smokey, smelly house at 2 o'clock a.m. If I can't fix it soon, I am shutting it down, which is a shame because it works so well. Firebox is usually about 340 to 360 degrees and stove pipe is around 300. Does it whether the wind is blowing or it is calm. Any help would be greatly appreciated. If you need more info or have question please let me know. Thanks
 
What type wood? It might not be as seasoned as you think. It may very well have too high a moisture content to burn nicely.

Could also be "stack effect". Do you run a dryer nearby? or a stove exhaust fan?

Maybe a plugged chimney cap, but you say you check that weekly.

Could the new "cap" be restricting draft in some way?

Is there any part of the stove itself that could be plugged with soot/ash?

OH, BTW, Welcome to hearth.com!

PICS HELP TOO, plus, we love to see woodstove setups here :)
 
With it doing it both with just coals and with a fire running, you have something different that is causing negative pressure in that basement. Have you tried cracking a basement door or window to see if it stops puffing?
 
A couple things popped out at me.... You're cleaning your flue every week, why? Is it getting a buildup in that time? And the second thing is the temps you mention. You mentioned 400 degrees. I don't run a furnace, but the surface of my woodstove regularly reads 750. I wonder if you are burning hot enough and getting the flue hot enough to draft.

Matt
 
I would say probably negative pressure also. Those furnaces don't require a high draft, due to the simple design. Something is fighting with your combustion air in the furnace. I know on our old furnace, the only time it would puff was if there was heavy winds outside. On those furnaces its hard to find a happy medium with the fire. Have you done anything with the home since last year? We wouldn't run our furnace over 600 on the face. At those temps it would melt your face off and heat a hotel. 400 to 450 was the normal.
 
I have the same stove model 1400. the only time mine has puffed is when I was learning and I would build a fire up too fast. I'm wondering if you've added windows, or sealed up drafts in the house and require more combustion air. chimney cap got something stuck in it? You could always add an inline stovepipe draft inducer with variable speed motor. That would also help correct the problem. Puffing though is a problem of not enough combustion air.
 
Wow. I appreciate the quick replys. Let me see if I can answer the questions from the posters.

Poster 1. Wood is Maple, Oak, Beech, Ash mix. Dryer & Stove are on main level, but we are not running either one when this happens at night. Cap is checked weekly and it was doing it before the new cap was installed. The new cap was installed becuase someone thought that would fix it. Stove is cleaned when chimney and stove pipe are.

Poster 2. I am not sure of the effects of negitive pressure, but this has been tossed around before. There are many different openings between the upstairs and basement. The basement is not sealed off or closed off from the upstairs. The furnace part blows the hot air upstairs and the cold air is returned through vents in the floor of all rooms and there is no door on the basement stairs going down. Not sure if this helps describe the set up. But it didn't do it last year, thats the confusing part. I usually open the basement sliding glass door to help air out the house and that won't stop it.

Poster 3. I clean my flue usually one a week becaue I do it everyday after it has puffed in the house just to make sure that there is no restriction. I am afraid that the one time I don't check it, there will be one and it will cause a bigger problem. There is no buildup. Not too sure about temps, but my thermometer says to keep the flue temp between 240 and 450. I would be afraid that if the stove was that warm then the flue temp would be to high. I could be wrong though. I am also afraid that if I kept it that warm I would be filling it every 4 hours.

Poster 4. I too was told that the wind was probably the cause. That is why I swapped caps. But I have also noticed that it does it just as much when there is not wind at all. Hahaha. I agree that when the temp is high my wife complains that its too hot in the house too.

Poster 5. No major changes it the house. I check the cap weekly. Never looked into an inline stovepipe draft inducer. I'll have to follow that lead and see where it goes. Thanks for the tip.

Gee guys, again, I really appreciate the questions/help. Let me know if you need anything else.
 
I'd like to see some pics of your setup.

Is your chimney installed in accordance with the 2-3-10 rule?

Another question, do you have a steep hill climbing up and away from your house?

Just fishin' for answers here :)
 
The most likely cause is "stack effect". Warm air rises and escapes from the upper level of your home in many different ways. When it does it creates low pressure at the lowest point in the house. If literally sucks air out of your basement. If that suction becomes greater than your chimney draft then stack effect is going to suck that air right back down your chimney and out of the stove into the living space.

Anybody upstairs getting too warm at night and opening a window up there? Somebody turning on a bathroom exhaust fan up there? Is there a leaky seal on the attic access up there?
 
Do you have your furnace tied into the return ducting, or is the blower open to the basement?
 
Got same furnace. 4 hours is about tops before reload. Once in awhile I get back puffs at a reload or starting from cold. It takes a good while to get a masonry chimney up to temp, mine is lined and still takes awhile I have a outside air source so negative pressure is a very small consideration.( I could probably use an extension on the chimney though as it could be a bit taller over the peak of the house, should be at least 3 ft.) I have a barometric damper on my flue to reduce the draft(unit is in basement so chimney is 20 ft or so long )when at operating temp in order to try and extend the burn time. My Flue pipe between the chimney and furnace is very short maybe a 24" rise with a 90 deg or so turn right out the back and a 45 deg turn in the chimney in about 2 foot horizontally measured span. At temp I have it set for a .04 draft reading. Generally I would say your flue/chimney is not running hot enough to create enough draft and for that reason you get the back draft (puffs). I try to attain about 400 deg. apx 10" up the flue pipe ( right below the baro damper magnetic temp gauge ) This unit is difficult to control, the auto damper on the loading door is useless once things are hot as it just shuts down and stays there until the unit is almost cold. I have tried a bunch of different corrections to it but to no avail. I do have the plug in the back removed ( thats where the forced draft blower mounts) that seemed to help even out the burn some with the lower door dial damper set about 1.5 to 2 turns open.
 
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