KevinK
Member
WOODBUTCHER said:Some good points Kevin.....sounds like you found the groove.KevinK said:...just stepping in since I've got the older Oslo too (cast baffle plates).
The "inspection cover" (Item#24 in my manual (p.18) ...?sounds exactly as 'nonprophet' mentioned.
I'm new here too, ...as well to the Oslo. I have found that the air adjustment is VERY responsive. I first need to leave the side door open a bit to get the flames going (a few minutes), ...then shut the door. If it's a new fire (ie. no hot coals) I'll leave the air mid to "+" for a bit, ...then lower. If I've got hot coals, ...I set it "-" to mid-range and let it go. If I've got a fire that's 'going down', ...and slide the air all the way to "+", ...in minutes it flames right up again.
Regarding draft, ...I will comment, ...when I have the side door open (with fresh wood on hot ashes), ...it's like a vacuum sucking air in. Just to add, ...I have 2' vertical to a 90 degree elbow above the stove, ...2' horizontal to the "T" and 22' (8" stack) going up.
Kevin
Most of the time my stove is running with the front draft lever 75% or more closed (depending on the temps outside and size of the load.)
The type of wood and the size of the splits will set the table on how much of an overnight burn you’ll get. I usually pack it (large splits) within 3-4 inches of the burntubes for overnight runs.
It will easily overfire if the draft lever is left open all the way for any length of time.
Once the wood is charred and she’s hot (500-600), I’ll knock the front draft lever down 75% or more and then she’ll purr.
Now and then I'll have to crack a door for a few minutes to get the fire going on cold starts.
WoodButcher
...yup, ....that sums it pretty well for me too, ...and ditto on the note about it overfiring if the draft lever is left all the way open (+), ...talk about active 'reburn
, ...those burntubes are throwing more flames than the wood 
